gadget

It had the starting and lumpy problems with the old pump and filter. The pump was making odd noises and changing it's tone. So a swapped the pump and filter. It made no difference whatsoever to the engine problems. I'm using autocom to read the ecu data. All of the live data for the cylinders is reported as 0, so i' suspecting it can't read that data properly. I'll see if I can put some tubing together for a leak off test.

I've acquired another freelander (I know, I should've learned this lesson by having one already). It's hard to start. Takes about 10-12 seconds of cranking to get it to fire. When it does start it idles at around 790 rpm and is lumpy. It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold, when left for 10 minutes after stopping it is hard to start again. If i stop the engine and then start it within a few seconds it will fire instantly. New pierburg low pressure fuel pump and mahle filter fitted. Swapped cam sensor for good from other freelander. Same symptoms with maf connected or not. Current error codes from engine are P0100, P1110 and P0110. These are all related to maf and air temp sensors being unplugged at the moment. Low pressure fuel at idle is 319 kPa - 310kPa at 1400 rpm High pressure fuel at idle is 29,000 kPa = 68,000kPa at 1400 rpm Edit: I also tried pulling the fuel pressure sensor plug off whilst the engine was running. Engine dies and will not start with that plug removed. Duff injectors, or something else?

Our freelander has been doing the rear brake funny business for quite some time. Usually when the weather is damp. I've just rebuilt everything with new. The new springs are *MUCH* stronger than the originals have become. There is such a difference between the new and old that I'm wondering if tired springs are a contributory factor. Time will tell...

If i'm remembering the layout correctly - I think the leading shoe has an extra piece of metal that links to the handbrake mechanism and the two main springs are different lengths. I'm reasonably certain that everything is in the right place, but I'll double check everything to make sure.

Handbrake cables and cylinder are pagid from euro car parts. Drums are allmakes pr2 - allegedly oem quality. Shoes are mintex. The retaining pins and clips (SMN000010) aren't looking the best for wear, so i'm going to replace those this time around. Everything else appears fine, just adjusting up way too much by themselves.

Our freelander has a habit of locking up its rear brakes when not driven for a few days. Most of the time enthusiastic clutch dumping will free them off, but every now and then it decides to be stubborn. Today is one of those days 😒 I've pulled everything apart and the only thing I've found is the adjusters have wound up too much. The state of the drum face, shoes and springs all appear good. The drums have done approximately 4000 miles since new, same with shoes and one cylinder. Any suggestions on what to do when putting everything back together this time that will make a difference?

When i swapped the master i didn't see any obvious method of adjustment. Workshop manual doesn't appear to mention pedal adjustment. The manual has: 1. Top up reservoir. 2. Raise the front of the vehicle. 3. Connect tube to bleed screw on clutch slave cylinder and submerge free end in a clear container containing brake fluid. 4. Loosen bleed screw, then apply steady pressure to the clutch pedal, depressing it through its full stroke. Allow the pedal to return unassisted. 5. Repeat the procedure until a flow of clean, air- free fluid is purged into the container. 6. Hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the clutch bleed screw to 9 Nm (7 lbf.ft). 7. Check and top up reservoir.

It is certainly possible that there is still air in the system, but i think it's unlikely. The last time i had to deal with the clutch hydraulics i learned that having the nose up and waiting a little to let the air collect at the top of the slave were sufficient to purge air. I'm going to bleed it again shortly though just to be sure.

True, i can't tell you by how much it has changed. It's entirely possible that the difference is miniscule and i'm interpreting it as a large change. I'm sure it would feel normal after a week or so.

I've just replaced my leaky clutch master, and replaced the slave whilst i was at it. The original land rover fitted master and slave were AP branded. I've replaced with AP master and TRW slave, using the original push rod. Since the change i've got the same amount of free play as before (I've always though it was too much but that's by the by) but the bite point is now much lower than it was prior. Pedal feels fine, travel is normal and the clutch is fully disengaging. Just a sanity check query to see if you expect this kind of change after a cylinder swap?

Yes, i was was darn lucky. To balance things out my luck changed a bit this afternoon. The little locating spigot on the mounting face of the tensioner had seized hard into the alternator bracket. Tensioner came off leaving the spigot behind. Had to remove the alternator bracket and drill the blasted thing out. My TD5 iis now clatter and squeak free :)

That's a fair point about it not being testbook. I'm reading the codes with Delphi Autocom 2013. So far it's been pretty consistent with returning a code when the SRS has illuminated. The last set of codes i read from it before fixing the short and clearing where Restraints (Airbag - Diagnose) DTC Description 34 - Airbag control unit - Permanent 5 - Front left pretensioner circuit - Short to GND - Permanent I've done a few more stop/starts and the SRS is staying out and no codes found.

It's on my list of things to fix asap. As they're all the same age I was thinking about replacing the bearing in the tensioner pulley and the idlers. The tensioner pulley is two halves that are riveted together and looks like it might be a bit of a faff to put back together.

I had a loud clattering noise coming from the front of my TD5. Did a search for similar things and It sounded exactly like the youtube posts I came across showing broken harmonic dampers. I pulled the auxiliary belt and set about checking the pulleys and damper. The powering steering pulley had jettisoned two bolts and the clattering was the pulley slapping against the pump when revolving. A pair of new bolts and no more clattering. So if anyone comes across this post when searching for clattering nose, it might not be the damper :) I did notice that the tensioner pulley bearing is stuffed :(

SWMBO freelander 1 has had an SRS light on for a little while. Codes said passenger pretensioner short. Stripped everything down on the passenger side and found a few metal flakes inside the yellow connector under the seat. Cleaned everything up, put it all back together and cleared the faults. Did a couple of test drives and the SRS light had gone away. Happiness. Moved the car earlier and the SRS light stayed on. Started car again the SRS went out. Read the codes again but there are no faults recorded in the SRS ecu. Anyone any ideas on how i can have an SRS light without registering any fault codes?

I took a chance on one... The box has OEM quality all over it but it isn't. The fuel sender reads twice as many ohms as it should giving half the correct reading on the gauge. The float arm has too much lateral movement can can give intermittent contact. Swapping the sender with the original fixes this easily enough. On first inspection the pump itself seems to work ok. It makes about the same noise as the original and there are no problems fitting it to the tank.

My fuel pump died on me whilst out and about on Friday. Very gradual loss of power and RPM until the noise under the bonnet stopped. Spent a lovely 6.5 hours sunbathing on the A50 whilst awaiting a flatbed. A big thank you to the chap in the G reg Discovery TD5 who stopped and offered to tow me :) I've been browser shopping for a replacement pump and have come across a make new to me. PWM, anyone used one before? I can't find any bad words for them land rover wise, which could either mean they always work so no bad posts or no one has bought one. PWM seems to be a eurocarparts special. TD5 fuel pump

Replaced the pinion seal earlier and put a new flange in too because there are two distinct grooves in the original where the seal sat. I noticed the front of the transfer box is wet too, so another leak to investigate The loss of axle torque prowess in the pinion bolt is more than made up for with the 450Nm of the drive shaft stake nut I checked the rotoflex torque earlier and it is listed as 76Nm. Probably a typo in the Haynes manual then for the pinion bolt torque. With all it's faults the Haynes is handy because it's lives in the car but the workshop manual pdf is very useful - thanks. I see what you did there

It's a Discovery 2. I thought that only Discovery 2 used bolts for the pinion and Discovery 1 used nuts? I did the rear about 14 years ago. Not surprisingly, It started to leak just after the LR warranty expired. You're right about that being a PITA. The prop locating pin was a right pain to dislodge.

Just spotted that i have a leaking front pinion seal so that's tomorrow's job worked out. Looked up the torque settings for the pinion bolt in the haynes manual and it's got 76Nm for the rear and 100Nm for the front. I would expect them to be the same. Out of curiosity does anyone know why they are different?

I've found a landrover bulletin that explains the outlet blanking. PDK000080 is suggested as the part number for all VIN and not just from 1A as the britcar description suggests. Still no reference to my radiator part number anywhere - it must be special Edit: PDK000080 is ROW PCC001070 is UK + EU. TD5_COOLER.pdf

Thanks Western. PDK00080 and PCC001070 both have the correct pipe connectors in the right places. PDK00080 is given as from TD5 VIN 1A onwards but this can't really be correct because the plumbing changed at 2A736340 for EU3 stuff. On my PCC001050 the red outlet in the attached image isn't drilled out and doesn't have a pipe or blank connected. The green outlet is connected to my fuel cooler. I probably need PCC001070 but i can't tell from the images or the descriptions if the red outlet is open or not.

My Discovery is a 51 pre facelift with a later EU3 engine. I've had troubles with part numbers before but can usually find what i'm looking for after a while searching but my radiator part number isn't showing at any of the parts suppliers. Anyone know what the current part is for PCC001050 manufacturer is Calsonic.

Original pads are mintex, new pads are delphi.

Resurrecting an old post in case someone with the same symptoms find this thread in a search. I've had my shimmy for a while and have periodically checked things to try and locate the problem without success. I swapped my front pads out today and the shimmy has gone. Put the old pads back in and the shimmy is there. Put new pads in and it's gone again. There's nothing visibly wrong with my pads, they're just old and moderately worn. A nice simple and cheap fix