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Everything posted by gadget

  1. This 110 is starting to test my patience I've got fresh engine oil dripping from the long sump bolt on the drivers side and from the drain hole on the bell housing. Rocker gasket is sound. It was leaking but changed that yesterday. Round seal below it at the rear of the head is also sound and the back of the engine is now completely dry Some oil will have dripped down the rear of the block from the rocker gasket and will have inevitably made it's way down to the drain but there shouldn't be much. Whilst the engine is idling i'm seeing 1 drip per minute from the drain. Could the rear crank be leaking again? Whizzing me off no end at the moment.
  2. If i ever get this thing finished and back on the road i'll try and warm them again after a decent drive and see if they'll grease up. If not i'll swap the UJs again and poke them through as you suggest.
  3. Looking for part numbers for the 4 screws and spire clips that secure the centre seat cover plate please.
  4. I'd add power steering pump and steering box to your list of faults. I've got a 2001 Discovery TD5 that i've owned from new that has been fantastic and a 2003 110 TD5 that i bought that has had every fault you list and then some. Biggest let down with my Discovery is that it will need a new chassis sometime soon. Definitely my favourite Land Rover engine though
  5. Had the return pipe off and checked with a straight edge. The turbo flange had twisted Refaced it and everything looks oil free
  6. I'm reasonably certain that the leak is from the gasket area. I get different leak rates depending on how i fit the gasket(s). I've changed the upper copper washers and reseated the feed line to be sure it wasn't that. The upper case on the turbo housing seems dry.
  7. TD5 engine. I didn't see anything obviously cracked. (Don't forget to read the PM i sent you a while ago)
  8. I don't think the drain is blocked. Wouldn't a blocked drain cause the turbo to dump oil into the exhaust/inlet? I'll check the drain though to make sure.
  9. Another day, another problem. I've spent pretty much all day trying to get the turbo oil drain to seal. I've used all of my gasket stash (5 allmakes PR2 PNT100030) and no matter what i do i cannot make it oil tight. I've tried the gaskets both ways up, two together, different bolts, different ways of tightening the bolts and slightly higher torque than specified. The faces of the return pipe look fine. Same with the mating face on the turbo housing. Both have been cleaned many times too. I'm out of ideas now
  10. Yes, fitted myself. Heat doesn't seem to have made much difference. They seemed free enough when i fitted them so didn't see the need to tap the cups out. Once the floor is back in i'll take it for a run and try to grease again after that.
  11. Spent another day on my Defender. Rebuilt turbo on and fitted the refurbed props. It actually moved under its own steam for the first time since the gearbox swap When trying to grease the props the front UJs and slide greased up fine. Rear slide no problem. Both rear UJs refuse to take any grease. Took out the nipples and tried with the long ones i use on my Discovery but still no happiness. The effort required to move the lever on the grease gun is significantly more than when grease flows. UJs are GKN so i'd not expect them to be duff but you never know.
  12. Does anyone have a diagram or picture showing the original routing of the breather pipes in the engine bay please?
  13. A very nice man as Firow propshafts looked at it knowingly and gave me a plug for it. Apparently there are two versions of plug. One plastic and one rubber. Sorted
  14. I've stripped my props and found why the sliding joint end of the rear was covered in goo. In the centre of the yolk on the extending piece there are holes and a circular recess that seems like it should hold some form of cap to prevent the splined joint ejecting its grease. The cap would fit where the red bit is here: Is the cap obtainable or am i looking for a replacement prop?
  15. I did use new bolts, but before fitting i tested a couple of the old ones and they torqued up in the same region too.
  16. I've read threads on many forums where the torque figure of 110NM is given for the TD5 flywheel bolts. The other info for these is 40NM stage 1 and then a further 90Deg stage 2. I went for the 2 stage and experimented with a torque wrench to see what torque it took to get them through the 90Deg stage 2. Lowest was 185NM highest was 200NM. Vastly different to the 110NM.
  17. I'm doing this in the open and rain is expected soon I've got the sump off and everything cleaned ready for reassembly. Haynes manual says to offer crank seal up to crank and when seal is over edge of crank withdraw the centre. The centre is much larger than the crank. I don't want to damage the seal by forcing it over the centre. Edit: It's on. I couldn't see any other way other than to push it over the centre.
  18. If anyone else needs to do this. The seal is wider than the splines but a close fit on the shaft. I made a carrier to transport the seal along the shaft. I wraped a layer of thin, hard plastic around the splines and slightly over the wider part of the shaft. Put a layer of cling film over this and then covered the cling film with grease. Slid the front cover with new seal on to the cling film and then slid the plastic carrier along to the gearbox. Once at the end i slid the front cover and seal off the carrier and on to the seal seat.
  19. Does the plastic centre jam on the end of the crank and the bolts pull the seal over it on to the crank?
  20. No one replaced a R380 front cover seal?
  21. Out of curiosity. Did LR fit relays to the TD5 headlamp wiring or are they still direct through the switch?
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