gadget

I had pondered copper grease. The original bolts had threadlock on them so was thinking that copper grease might not be a good idea. Are the mount bolts likely to work free without threadlock?

Definitely a pain. Thanks for your tip Some of these "quick" jobs nurture bloody mindedness After running a tap through the holes everything seems fine. Decided to pick up some new seals tomorrow and replace them whilst it's off. The top four M10 holes are blind and the bolts for those are very clean. The front two holes are through and i suspect that the water and road salt gets in the back of the threads and rusts nicely. Any mileage in filling the rear of the through holes with silicone?

CW: I don't know anyone local who has a TIG. That's superb control in that video. Very impressive. BUT... IT'S OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Took the diff out and used Davie's smithy suggestion. Wound the arc welder up to 11 and welded a flat bar to what is left of the bolt. Once it had welded to the bar i used the rest of the rod going over and around the stud to build heat. Each time is snapped a little more of the bolt off when it let go and by the final attempt the bolt was pretty much flat with the face of the hole. It took 4 rods but now all i have to do is run a tap through the threads and it's ready to go back it Now, as the diff is out and the drive shaft seals have been disturbed should i replace them before i refit or should they be ok cleaned up?

No matter what i've tried nothing will shift the bolt remnant. Can't get to it with a drill or grinder in situ so i'll have to take the diff off. I suspect i'll have to remove the diff pinion too to be able to drill out the bolt. What a pitfa for something that's supposed to be a simple job of replacing the mounts.

I've got a few small left handed bits that i've used for small bolts in blind holes. The M10 hole is a threaded through hole. A right hand bit on hammer should wind it out the rear if it frees?

Thinking about this... I can strap a piece of flat bar along the length of the threaded part of the diff casing. I can then weld all the way along the flat bar and the heat should be transferred to the casing. Sensible or not?

When i had the nuts welded on i was using a breaker bar to waggle quickly back and forth to shock it free. Same principle as the plate i would think? Like the idea though. I'll dig out a piece of scrap bar and give that a try.

I went out to change the rear diff mounts today. Had the rear two swapped in about 20 minutes. Came to unbolt the front and got two bolts out and the bottom M10 in the diff snapped. Plenty of thread left so i thought i'd weld a nut on and it would extract easy enough After far too many hours of trying i've given up for today. I've tried heat, freeze spray, plus gas and welding nuts on. Two of the nuts snapped off more of the bolt Anyone have any other suggestions of how to extract the bloody thing? It's a 10.9 grade bolt so i'm not looking forward to having to drill it out

Just done this. Those rivets are a bit of a pain to drift out. FF your guess at 30mm is a better size than my 35mm. Diff mounts and all the brake pipes next Oh, and the sump and end of gearbox is wet with engine oil. Do these things have a common leak upstairs that drips down?

You're right. Mr grinder would adjust them. Just found a picture showing the bolts in a kit side on. 23 threads. They're M10 so assuming 1.5 pitch they're 35mm

I'd guessed at either 30 or 35mm.

Poor component quality has meant that the Freelander i purchased last year for my wife has failed its MOT on a front suspension lower ball joint. It's only done 181,000 miles too I've ordered a pair of lemforder joints Some of the kits come with M10 bolts to replace the rivets. Anyone know the length of those bolts please?

I'm out of time. Going to dump the 110 in a field until i have another bunch of time to take another look at it.

Clutch is leak free. Defender has a different routing to the Discovery - no pipe across the rear of the engine. Your mention of the clutch pipe in my other thread lead me to find the chaffed pipe on my Discovery. FPR doesn't seem to be leaking in any obvious way.

The rocker and rear cam gaskets are still dry. Wiped the rear of the head with a tissue and there's no oil at all there. It could be residual oil i guess, just seems unlikely. After the sump refit i ran the engine for 30 minutes and during the run the sump was dry, nothing from drain hole or wading plug. Checked the next morning and the sump was wet in the same places as the pictures show.. Cleaned everything up and drove around for an hour or so and the pictures show the sump when i got back.

No sealant. Just the metal plate between the gearbox and block/sump. From what i can see there's very little oil coming from the drain hole since the sump refit. Almost all of the oil appears to be coming from the edge of the sump.

I refitted the sump and have driven it around the farm today for an hour or so. Apart from getting recovered from a marsh area by the JCB nothing fell off and nothing went bang I still have oil on the bell housing but i'm wondering if the sump gasket may well be the cause? If the crank seal was the cause of my leak i'd have expected the oil to come from the centre part of the bell housing, but one entire edge of the bell housing is wet. Between the two arrows is wet with oil. Rear of head above the bell housing is perfectly dry. Crank seal or sump gasket?

I've just taken the sump off to see what i can in the bell housing/crank area. Rear of the flywheel is dry and from what i can see the gearbox side of the crank is dry too. Ran my finger across under the seal and that seems dry. If it is the crank seal and not the sump gasket that's leaking, how wet would the gearbox end of the crank appear? Would it be obvious that the seal was leaking or not?

I've had two leaks on my discovery that could have been interpreted as rear crank seal leaks. Before you go to the trouble and expense of the crank seal check the rear of the rocker cover gasket, and also check that your clutch pipe hasn't been abraded and caused tiny hole. Both leaks run down the rear of the block and can seem like something worse than they are.

Measured with a tape measure so +/- a bit. ID=60mm OD=68mm

I've ordered all the bits to change the rear crank seal again. Hopefully i'll get the engine pulled this weekend. I'd appreciate any hints, tips or gotchas please because i'd rather not have to do it all a third time

It would certainly be close to 70mm. I'll rummage in the bin tomorrow and see if i can locate the bits of the old one. If i find it i'll measure the ID for you.

I fitted a WLH500070 to my TD5 today and it was the same diameter at both ends.

I've added +1 for not replaced Discovery. There's nothing in the paperwork that came with my Defender to say that it has has an oil cooler swap either.

I think i've found the t-piece i was looking for. It seems it is part of PCH117190 and not available separately.