gadget

I checked the seal seat on the crank and there was a little black mark where the old seal sat but no discernible surface aberration. The TD5 seal comes in a housing that is bolted to the rear of the block. There's no chance that i can see of adjusting the seating position anyhow.

Perhaps, and i hope it's something like that. I cleaned the rear of the engine before i pulled the old seal and cleaned the crank seal face before fitting the new seal.

I think it will either be the rear seal or perhaps the sump gasket, but either way i can't think of anything i did incorrectly when fitting.

Thanks for the suggestion. The crankcase breather, cover, pipework and PCV was cleaned when i had everything apart for the gasket. Pretty sure it isn't a breather issue

TD5 and R380. I've just replaced the gearboxes, clutch, flywheel and rear seal. Didn't scrimp - used valeo clutch + DMF and genuine seal & crank bolts. Definitely nice new engine oil coming from the drain. After sorting out the turbo drain and the rocker gasket i thought i'd achieved a leak free TD5. Ha. Irritating.

I suspected as much If i replace the seal again i'm not sure i'd do anything different and will end up with the same problem.

This 110 is starting to test my patience I've got fresh engine oil dripping from the long sump bolt on the drivers side and from the drain hole on the bell housing. Rocker gasket is sound. It was leaking but changed that yesterday. Round seal below it at the rear of the head is also sound and the back of the engine is now completely dry Some oil will have dripped down the rear of the block from the rocker gasket and will have inevitably made it's way down to the drain but there shouldn't be much. Whilst the engine is idling i'm seeing 1 drip per minute from the drain. Could the rear crank be leaking again? Whizzing me off no end at the moment.

If i ever get this thing finished and back on the road i'll try and warm them again after a decent drive and see if they'll grease up. If not i'll swap the UJs again and poke them through as you suggest.

Thanks Ralph

Looking for part numbers for the 4 screws and spire clips that secure the centre seat cover plate please.

I'd add power steering pump and steering box to your list of faults. I've got a 2001 Discovery TD5 that i've owned from new that has been fantastic and a 2003 110 TD5 that i bought that has had every fault you list and then some. Biggest let down with my Discovery is that it will need a new chassis sometime soon. Definitely my favourite Land Rover engine though

Had the return pipe off and checked with a straight edge. The turbo flange had twisted Refaced it and everything looks oil free

I'm reasonably certain that the leak is from the gasket area. I get different leak rates depending on how i fit the gasket(s). I've changed the upper copper washers and reseated the feed line to be sure it wasn't that. The upper case on the turbo housing seems dry.

TD5 engine. I didn't see anything obviously cracked. (Don't forget to read the PM i sent you a while ago)

I don't think the drain is blocked. Wouldn't a blocked drain cause the turbo to dump oil into the exhaust/inlet? I'll check the drain though to make sure.

Another day, another problem. I've spent pretty much all day trying to get the turbo oil drain to seal. I've used all of my gasket stash (5 allmakes PR2 PNT100030) and no matter what i do i cannot make it oil tight. I've tried the gaskets both ways up, two together, different bolts, different ways of tightening the bolts and slightly higher torque than specified. The faces of the return pipe look fine. Same with the mating face on the turbo housing. Both have been cleaned many times too. I'm out of ideas now

Yes, fitted myself. Heat doesn't seem to have made much difference. They seemed free enough when i fitted them so didn't see the need to tap the cups out. Once the floor is back in i'll take it for a run and try to grease again after that.

Spent another day on my Defender. Rebuilt turbo on and fitted the refurbed props. It actually moved under its own steam for the first time since the gearbox swap When trying to grease the props the front UJs and slide greased up fine. Rear slide no problem. Both rear UJs refuse to take any grease. Took out the nipples and tried with the long ones i use on my Discovery but still no happiness. The effort required to move the lever on the grease gun is significantly more than when grease flows. UJs are GKN so i'd not expect them to be duff but you never know.

Thank you

Does anyone have a diagram or picture showing the original routing of the breather pipes in the engine bay please?

A very nice man as Firow propshafts looked at it knowingly and gave me a plug for it. Apparently there are two versions of plug. One plastic and one rubber. Sorted

The offending item:

I've stripped my props and found why the sliding joint end of the rear was covered in goo. In the centre of the yolk on the extending piece there are holes and a circular recess that seems like it should hold some form of cap to prevent the splined joint ejecting its grease. The cap would fit where the red bit is here: Is the cap obtainable or am i looking for a replacement prop?

I did use new bolts, but before fitting i tested a couple of the old ones and they torqued up in the same region too.

I've read threads on many forums where the torque figure of 110NM is given for the TD5 flywheel bolts. The other info for these is 40NM stage 1 and then a further 90Deg stage 2. I went for the 2 stage and experimented with a torque wrench to see what torque it took to get them through the 90Deg stage 2. Lowest was 185NM highest was 200NM. Vastly different to the 110NM.