gadget

Good job i read the other posts. I was almost ready to accept

Sounds like it might have had a chassis and V5 too

I've finally found some time to start stripping bits off my 110 ready to swap its gearbox. The floor and tunnel are out and most of the hydraulics for the winch are off. Once the winch, bumper and pump are off i'll look get rid of them. The winch is a ramsey - i'd need to check the paperwork that came with the 110 for the details but from memory i think it's an 8000lb. No idea what the pto pump is yet. There's an oil cooler radiator and a large (25L+) reservoir tank. What's a sensible price to offer these for?

If the rest of thread is in good condition i'd not be too worried about the first 1-2mm being bare so long at it torqued up correctly. I'd probably grab a spacer and torque the bolts up to spec a few times and then check the threads again. If any further damage is obvious i'd probably helicoil the thread.

I had a one way valve in the tube so no back flow when the pedal is raised. Just observing that the first depression of the pedal displaced more fluid than any subsequent presses in quick succession.

I've only got the splice in place at the moment. It's fully bled. Not a trace of air exiting after extensive bleeding.

Partial success. I have a clutch and i can drive the Discovery! It's got a fair bit of free play in the pedal though. I've noticed something that i don't think is right. Imagine a length of clear tubing full of fluid with one large air bubble in it. When i press the clutch the bubble moves say 10cm along the pipe. If i lift the clutch pedal, wait 10 seconds and then depress again the bubble duly moves another 10cm along the pipe. If i press the clutch pedal up and down repeatedly at a rate of say twice per second the bubble moves 10cm on the first depression and then only 2cm on the successive depressions. If i wait a few seconds and repeat the above i see the same results again. Normal or tired mast cylinder?

There are no obvious leaks from the pipework now, but try as i might i still can't get an air free bleed from the slave nipple. It's starting to annoy me now.

The red part of the image is the bit that i've replaced. This is the slave side of the pipe. This is behind the head. This is the other end of the splice near to the FPR. The splice is 39cm long.

OI! NOOOOOOo! You want photos of the splice or just the final mod?

I feel that the intricate wiggle where the clutch pipe weaves between the heater matrix pipes would be a little more unlikely to rub if the passenger side clip was in place. Whoever it was who thought up the routing for the TD5 clutch pipe must have been a recent graduate or someone who was about to leave the company. I've got the splice in place for now, just need to get the air out of the system. I had considered coming off the wing, but again very close to the exhaust. My favourite so far is to come across to centre of the bulkhead then step across to the head with a flexi. Then a hard line from the centre rear of the head to the clutch slave. But it's too bloody miserable outside to be experimenting and i'd rather like to have the car running again. Not to mention evicting the mices.

My last attempt at an alternative solution was exactly that. There are sufficient spare slots in the clips across the bulk head for the hard line and there's a hole already in the body mount that would accept a bracket. Try as i might though i could not find a way of routing flexi that wasn't annoyingly close to the exhaust. Even using a bracket similar to NRC7441 and coming off the clutch slave in a more vertical manner. I'm going to splice a section of pipe in for now and deal with it when the weather is better. I'd still like to know where the drivers side pipe clip is fixed.

I've figured out the routing but i'm struggling to see where the drivers side clutch pipe clip ANR1351 sits. There's no obvious hole on the rear of the head to take to clip. Anyone?

I wasn't sure, so i posted it out of interest.

I'm still playing with pipe ideas. Going to have to hurry up and sort this though as the car has been parked up for such a long time now that mice are taking up residence in the engine bay I scribbled down the routing of the original pipe as it drops from the flexi toward the rear of the head and it would seem that someone has stolen my diagram! (Some muppet probably left it somewhere and it blew away, didn't i? *sigh*). Anyone got a photo showing the routing please?

Just come across this <https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-rules-for-mot-to-test-for-diesel-particulate-filter> (can't embed a link for some reason) Lots of people have removed the down pipe filter on their TD5s. Are the Discovery filters considered to be DPFs?

David at llama says that the braided hose would be fine for this application. I'm struggling to see where to secure the hose at the moment. I've read that the aero industry think of braided hoses as round hacksaw blades so securing in a way that they don't abrade anything seems sensible.

Truly awesome Yes. The bolts fit through the same grommets that hold the engine cover on. The 8mm heads are small enough that they pass through the opening and retain the grommet on the head. To refit would only need the grommet pushing back in to the hole and the bolt fitting. I suppose you could lever it off without undoing either bolt...

I think i've worked out why the pipe fails in the way it does. There are 2 pipe clips at the rear of the head that secure the pipe across the engine. The one on the drivers side works loose with vibration and the spring force of the flexi part raises the pipe and brings it in to contact with the plastic shroud.

Don't concern yourself people Remove passenger side bolt. Insert pry bar between head and shroud on driver's side and assert gentle pressure. Shroud pops off rubber grommet. Withdraw shroud over top of head (swearing optional) Remove remaining 8mm bolt. I doubt it will go back on as you'd need a Hobbit to get the driver's side bolt back in with the shroud in place.

I'm glad too It's been driving me potty trying to work out where the air was coming from. I have a cunning plan. That daft piece of insulation is a right pain when seating the rocker cover gasket at the back of the head. Mine's been weeping for an age. I'm also pondering trimming the plastic to allow more space above the pipes. I'm thinking brass m10 couplings and some 3/16 brake pipe, though i have just sent Dave a llama an email enquiring if he thinks a braided hose would work here.

Anyone who has been reading my clutch bleed thread will know that i've been having a bit of an issue tracking down air ingress in my clutch. reb78 pointed me to the area where the problem lies, at the rear of the engine. There's a piece of insulation inside a plastic shroud that is bolted to the rear of the engine. I can find the passenger side bolt but not the drivers side one. I'd appreciate some help with how to remove this Cheers folks.

BINGO!! The very edge of the plastic shroud at the rear of the engine has cut a hole in the pipe. There's a flex on one side of that pipe so i think i'll need to just chop a section out and replace it. Next problem is how do you remove the shroud? I can get to the bolt on the passenger side easy enough but i've not managed to locate the drivers side bolt yet.

Bled, and reverse bled and then forward bled to check. Air appearing in each depression of the pedal and the clutch pedal resistance is fading. Something is obviously letting air in, but i can't see any leaks anywhere in the system. I'm going to have to bite the bullet and replace the cylinders Edit: Forgot to ask. Any air in the system will rise up the bulkhead and get trapped in the bizarre pipework that runs to the switch on the wing and back to the master. I've read a mention of a clutch master that has the clutch switch fitted to the body. Anyone heard of this or perhaps got a part number? I'd ditch the air trap pipework if i could fit a master with the switch in the body.

Had the drums off today to see why the handbrake was pants. From what i can see the auto adjusters didn't. I stripped everything down and cleaned everything up and reassembled. The haynes book suggests that from zero adjustment a few presses of the brake pedal will ratchet up the adjuster and everything will be just fine The adjuster arms just leapt off the cog and that was the end of their attempt. I needed to adjust them quite a bit manually before they'd do anything useful. Bearing in mind that this is a very high mileage td4. Are the brakes just tired and replacing the adjusters and drums will make everything behave as per the book or is there some secret sauce that is needed here? The handbrake is much better now