Jump to content

tim_roberts

Settled In
  • Posts

    196
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

1 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hertford, UK
  1. I would suspect the vcu mounting bearings first. Or just leave the propshaft off!
  2. Very common problem. Just drill a hole or two through the carpet and metal skin below to allow the water to drain out.
  3. The 1.8 petrol engine is notorious for blowing head gaskets, which is why these tend to be a cheaper option. The TD4 diesel engine is pretty reliable, if serviced regularly.
  4. The Freelander 2 is a totally different car. I sold my FL1 and bought a 2010 model nearly two years ago and it has been fantastic - so much more power, and so much better to drive. I went for the 2010 model because that's when they changed the Haldex system (4-wheel drive system) which had been a bit unreliable on earlier models. The 2.2 litre TD4 is no relation to the BMW TD4, and is, I believe, a Ford-Peugeot engine used in millions of cars and vans - hence ultra reliable, and service parts (filters, brakes, etc) are also cheap. The only downside is it's very tight under the bonnet, and anything serious (eg clutch) is an engine out job - so not cheap.
  5. I'm afraid I'm not at all up-to-date on what the changes were, other than that they de-tuned the standard engine to 150hp (it was 158) and offered a 190hp version at vastly more cost. In fact, you can achieve the same power with the 158hp engine with a relatively cheap engine re-map, which is what I plan to do before summer comes. The other forum will give you everything you need to know, plus a lot more!
  6. I have a 2010 model with none of these gizmos, and can honestly say I don't miss them. Of course it's got traction control and ABS and for normal use that's all you need. Yes, the FL2 is a totally different car from the FL1 - not least because of the extra power output. Towing a caravan (if you're into that) is a joy, not a struggle. The Haldex rear drive system is superb and pretty reliable from 2010 onwards (not so the earlier ones). You'll find a forum dedicated to the FL2 here: http://www.freel2.com/forum/
  7. It's worth mentioning that removing the prop (by which I mean the entire thing including the VCU and both halves of the prop) simply means it's a front-wheel drive car. Your ABS and traction control work as normal and apart from no drive to the rear wheels everything is the same. The signs of a failing IRD (usually caused by a failing VCU) are a rumbling or droning at speed, which goes away when you remove the prop. This is bcause the IRD bearings fail at the output flange, and when the prop is removed there's no load on the flange and hence no noise. You can buy a set of bearings and seals for the IRD quite cheaply and overhaul it yourself, but if any of the gears are damaged it's probably worth getting a completely rebuilt unit from Bell Engineering.
  8. The first looks better - but there's more photos! With the RAC warranty you can;t really go wrong. Just be sure it covers major things like rear diff, clutch, etc.
  9. New engines are coming next year I believe. Personally I don't like the look of the DS, but I dare say in a year or three I'll have changed my mind!
  10. The judder is most likely because the disc isn't seated properly. Also sounds like you may have a sticky piston, causing the pads to overheat. I should investigate asap.
  11. Sadly, it's normal. The only option seems to be to replace them with a new set (about £35 on eBay if you search hard). You'll find that this forum tends to be mainly about FL1's, but you will find a lot more useful stuff about FL2's here: http://www.freel2.com/forum/
  12. Most likely the solenoid inside the starter motor. They can be repaired very cheaply with a kit from eBay. Sorry, but I've no idea how easy/difficult it is to remove on a V6
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy