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stageonesimmo

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About stageonesimmo

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    Old Hand

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    simmobri
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  • Location
    Glasgow(ish)

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  • Interests
    Landrovers, Africa twins mountian biking and some other, less interesting stuff.
  1. Nice to have my prowess recognised! Mine come off in 10 mins as I've changed the fasteners for stainless and used loads of coppaslip - I admit though the first time they came off it may have taken a 'little' longer.............
  2. My M plate 300TDi leaks from one of the seams on the inner wing - water gets in just above the relay holders and runs down onto the floor behind the trim. The only way to fix it is to weld new meatal in where the old mastic has come off due to the rust expanding and splitting the seam. Not saying yours is the same, but it only takes 10 mins to get the wing off to have a look...........
  3. Ha ha - LR handbrakes and failing MoTs - we had a rash of WOLF failing at work by an outside inspection team - they were failing on imbalance and a long argument ensued about how the hell can you fail a single drum system because it gives differing readings at the wheels - of course its gonna do that, the twist in the half shafts is enough to do that - we won out in the end and they were all put back on the road at the stroke of a pen.......
  4. You can get at the switch from underneath easily enough - its all down to where you lie and where you put your arms up between the body and chassis. On mine (R380) when it did the same there was no washer under the switch so the only way to do it was a new switch - not too expensive and all in all it was only a 10 minute job - but thats prolly just down to the 'knack' of getting my arms etc in the right places.........
  5. I wouldn't have thought it was a cable related problem if the thing is locking up at 4 clicks - sounds more like oil contaminated shoes to me - its easier to check that first then needlessly adjusting the cable, which you should hardly ever have to do by the way............
  6. You'll also possibly get a damp patch under the lift-pump and can sometimes actually see fuel spray coming from the atmospheric pressure hole in the base of the pump just below where the diaphragm lives - this points to a shot diaphragm. Also the pipes can work-harden over time and the movement in them caused by the engine rocking can loosen the brass olive so it allows air past between it and the pipe - give the unions a good tighten to rule that out........
  7. Yeah, mines the same - only not as bad - I'm running MTF94 at present, but may change back to ATF as I only noticed an improvement for as long as it took the new oil to get abused then it went back to how it was - as ATF comes in a bit cheaper I'll change back next oil change......... Wish LR would make up their minds as to what's best for it - mind you most LR boxes have a character and mind of their own and so no 2 are ever alike anyway..........
  8. Chances are the bearings in the nose of the power steering pump are failing - its the same on the 300TDi - the shaft starts to walk out of the pump when the bearings are going - only a new pump cures that one really.......
  9. Do the indicators flash 3 times when it unlocks/de-immobilses? If not its the batteries in the fob. If it does then it's either a signal range problem and could be down to a worn out fob or a button problem as in the buttons in the fob have collapsed - either way prolly time for a new fob.....
  10. Yeah I know -I was a tester for nigh on 20 years in the military, but I for one think its rubbish to generalise so much when the build of a monocoque car and a ladder chassis car vary so markedly - I could put a brand new glavanised chassis under this wreck in question and it would still fail the MoT regardless of the fact that the rust in question bears no relevance to the chassis in any way - mad! Agreed with the photos as well - best way to see what exactly is up.........
  11. Not been under a D2, but dont discount the rear 'A' frame ball-joint when looking for wobbles at the front that have exhausted all other possibilities - I had a deafener once that had a whole load of kit flung at the front and it didnt cure it then on its next inspection the rear 'A' frame ball-joint was picked up as having a load of lift in it - it was renewed and the front end wobbles went with it............
  12. Mmmm, an odd one this one - being as how is a ladder chassis with a body bolted on top that is no way connected to the suspension - how the hell can rusty inner and rear arches affect suspension components that aren't even connected to them? Seat belt mounts with the rear, yes, but the front inner wings and suspension, nah think not. Just a thought........... But, its gonna need a shed load of welding done to it anyways regardless of wiether or not it'll pass the MoT, so unless you can do that or know someone who can cheaply, I'd stay away.........
  13. I hate to this, Karlo but - Rubbish! That's an urban myth. Its a single stage catalytic convertor - particlate filters are not nor have they ever been fitted to any production landrover - they require complicated monitoring and soot burning systems involving ignitors and fuel supplies - none of which is fitted to any LR exhaust. When the 300Tdi came out particulate filter systems were in their infancy and were even too expensive/unreliable to fit to large commercial vehicles, let an already basic 4X4. Although the technology is now more common-place (i.e. the latest Pugeot diesels are often fitted with them along with a smattering of other major manufacturers), its still not very widespread and its definately NOT fitted to 300 TDi discos............ However, the gist of it is right - the smoke test checks opacity/density and not chemical composition which is what a cat changes meaning that taking off the cat leaves no testable evidence behind.........
  14. One of your CV joints in the front axle is partially seized and not long for this world - exact same symptoms as mine gave when the off-side CV seized............. I'd put money on it.
  15. You've got 2 options - either complete new (and therefore expensive) XD panels to replace the old ones - they've got the necessary holes for the lamps in them already..... or.. just attack the present ones with a hole saw and drill to make new holes for the extra lamps where needed, (you'll only need 3 new holes - 2 between the existing fog and inciators and one above the off-side fog lamp for the new reverse lamp), - the existing holes will be fine as they are as the new units are the same size essentially so just screw straight on....... The next problem will be getting the reverse lamp to work as you dont have one as it it is - the hole for the switch on the gearbox is there and the wiring may well be as well - but if not its a simple enough one live, one earth circuit so should be easy enough to wire in............ Happy modding.........
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