birty1

Hi fellas ...i've had the 300tdi for 11 years now, replaced the discs on a couple of occasions and it is that time again! So as i tow constantly i thought an overhaul was due as the hubs will be off quite soon. I know i can fit vented slot disc's and the bigger110 pots to the front ,,,but can i get a double pot caliper on the rear? AND is there a bigger "easy fix" caliper to replace the front other than the 110 unit? i'd love to be able to stop instead of looking for an escape route for once!!! If you own a discovery you will know what i mean, the more you bolt on, the heavier it is and the less it wants to stop ...ha!! Mine is a '96 so no ABS or brake wear indicator cables. Any help is appreciated as money is tight and i don't want to buy the wrong parts. best Birty1

Hi, If you've ruled out the fuel system being air locked then i think it could be the spider going faulty, this will throw in the immobliser randomly, all you can do is wait? If these are the symptoms then look there. I hope it helps Mike

Hi just a continuation of the wonderful article above, and just an expansion of the method and things that you’ll need. Before attempting this on your drive way without a ramp or pit …firstly ask yourself do I really want to do this! It is not a task for the faint hearted nor someone who not proficient on the tools! …and with that I don’t mean you have to be a mechanic just good and resourceful in the use of sockets and the like because this will challenge you. So check your tool kit and make sure you have the following before you start: • A prop shaft nut removal tool • 3 x ½” extension bars ( you need to make up about a metre when connected together) • A 1/2" variable angle adaptor for you extension bars • A 15mm long reach socket • Some ratchet straps • Blocks of wood • 2 bricks • Safety glasses • WD40 • Clutch alignment tool • 2 clamps (wood working type) • 2 roasting trays small If you haven’t got any of the above, don’t start the job until you have because you will be sorry and have to down tools to go and get what is missing. So the first on the list is the prop shaft nut remover, you need this because you will not get a normal socket in with the angle of the shaft. The extension bars and angle adaptor are to get over the box to un do the top gearbox bolts. If you cannot make about a metre when they are all connected you will struggle. Another must is the 15mm long reach socket, no other will do, a 16mm will round the nut, so will an imperial size. The last thing you want is a rounded nut and skinned knuckles where it has slipped off so buy a 15mm long reach socket for about £6. The ratchet straps are for pulling or supporting the box at various times (see it as a third hand if you will). The bricks are to chock the wheels (safety first) and the blocks of wood are to put under your jacks. So follow the advice given above and start dismantling. You will need to split the exhaust at the middle section and remove the bracket. I built a wooden frame 1m x 500mm on wheels to put my jacks on, then the gearbox and transfer box could be rolled back to access the clutch. I think of all the jobs you will do on your Discovery, this will be the least satisfying, with the greatest sense of “why” did they make it this way? Because it becomes apparent why didn’t they split the bell housing making an access opening with a retractable drive shaft? It would have been so much simpler!! There isn’t even any access for the top bolts on the gearbox, not even 2 ports though the body work in the foot wells!! So you end up dropping the transfer box onto the cross member to tilt the box so you can see them. I couldn’t …in all honesty access the top bolts from inside the cab as described, hence the 15mm, short extension, angle, then 2 longer lengths to the ratchet, I found this was the only way, but if you have the extension bars then it isn’t a problem although a thwack to do!! When re-assembling put a strap around the box and over a block of wood where the gear stick should be inside the car and ratchet it up, this will help support both boxes to help them to move more easily. Another strap to pull it forward, then finally use the hand clamps to close the box enough to start the nuts on the bolts, remembering to put the box in gear and turn box by hand to align the splines. Again No clutch alignment tool and you will struggle to fit it correctly. So in a garage they recon about 9hrs, with a ramp etc …on my back getting soaked to the skin it took me 14hrs over 5 days. It rained and rained and the water ran off the car and through my waterproofs and soaked me. I saved the £500 labour but I got no satisfaction from a job well done, if I had the spare cash it would be in the garage being done. I don’t want to put you off but this is not for the faint hearted people. Finally what are the roasting trays for? …as you take you nuts of put them in the first tray, keep the second for the tools and sockets to use. Then when you are on your back, and have to change socket, it will be on the tray beside you not next to your cup of tea 10 feet away!!!! Happy clutch changing. Mike