kiwi_110

Sounds like you might have MDE half shafts and drive members, the latter machined from a lump of steel in a pentagonal shape at the hub end and a large screw on cap. Interchangeable with standard. That bolt might be a pegging setup for the crown wheel, but I think it's on the wrong side. What happened to your rear prop shaft? Based on your report that the rear diff is fighting within itself, I suspect it's that which is the original issue, and your rear prop suffered as a result.

Are they a reputable service agent? "Contaminated fluid" sounds dubious. The slave comes with integrated lines and is prefilled with fluid. If they did both slave and master at the time, then there is little chance of fluid contamination unless they supplied contaminated fluid. They may have used a clutch plate or pressure plate that is not exactly "in spec" and the slave cannot get sufficient disengagement, or the master or slave may be faulty, or they've used the wrong fluid, or there's still air or a blockage or an obstruction in the fluid lines.

Steve B you made a pretty good effort with that lot, covered the bulk of it and the best bits for sure, well done Josh NZ I was over there with work back in '09 but only for a week. I managed to get to Billing LRO Show, that was Mecca for me. I just wish I'd had the funds to fill a 40' container with the stuff I saw and shipped it back... Not the least of which would have been a couple of galv'd chassis and a shizzit load of after market suspension kit etc. I did manage to fit a Raptor Console and some bling in my checked baggage. On the way up from London to Little Billing, I stopped in at the Aston Martin service centre in Newport Pagnall, that was worth a quick look.

Most impressed with this project mate, in particular the brackets and links you've fab'd up they are works of art! I just hope the chassis copes, I have no doubt your brackets will!

Mine is lift up handles. On the inner panel, the upper and lower rearmost holes on the lecky regulator mount line up with the ones on the panel. The front two are wider apart and I just drilled new ones in the panel to match. The panel has to be flattened a bit and the front lower corner needed cutting out to clear the motor. If you can source later model inner panels as Vinny did, you'd be sweet. Vinny, did you use the regs unmodified or did you weld on your original arms? Possibly the later inner panels place the regulator closer to the centre of the panel so the arm can be shorter. I was pretty sure the rollers on the lecky arms did not fit the channel thing in the bottom of the glass so thats another reason I swapped the arms over. Ray.

Hi Tom, I got them from www.lrdirect.com they were Allmakes brand and £62.99 each. Island4x4 had one side at £33 but did not have the other. I didn't take pix. I can take a couple of pix of the bits I cut off and a spare manual regulator to show the geometry difference and post them up later today.

Well since I'm older and tired of reaching for the window winder, I thought I'd have a crack at installing some electric windows in the 110. Being a truck cab, only two to do so should be a piece of the proverbial. I scanned microcat for the Defender electric window regulators and found these two parts, CUH000082 and CUH000092 for left and right front door electric regulators. More scanning revealed that they would typically only fit the later models, post-1990 at least, but I thought I'd have a go any way, as one does. I also ordered the proper little flexible grommets that go between the door and the pillar but would do my own harness and DPDT switches. I planned to mount the switches on either side of the top panel of my Raptor Console so I got Phil Proctor to make me a new top panel with carling cut-outs either side of 4 x 52mm gauge holes. When the red-cross package turned up from LRDirect, I pulled my door cards and handle gubbins off and pulled out the manual regulators. Straight away, i could see the geometry of the lecky models uses a shorter arc and shorter scissors. Unperturbed, I cut the arms off both sets of regulators near the pivot point, and MIG'd my longer manual arms and their attached scissors back on to the lecky regs. So now the geometry would be correct for my windows and I just had to sort out the mounts because the stud pattern for the inner door panel is a bit different. Two of the four holes line up and put the pivot right where it had to be and the other holes needed drilling in the panel. I also had to cut away a bit of panel for lecky motor clearance. After some faffing about, bending the arms a bit and tweaking the panel here and there, I got them working. I hard soldered wires to the motor connections and pumped RTV around them for water proofing. Drilled holes in the door card near the check-strap thing, and the coresponding plastic cover on the pillar (covers the other end of the check strap thing) and secured the grommet there with the wires passing through it and up through the binnacle and into the Raptor Console. A couple of new fuses and wiring from the fusable link bus up to two new DPDT carling tpe switches and Bob is my Uncle! They run down in about 3 seconds and up in 4. No worse than the Disco so I'm quite chuffed. I know a thread is often useless without pix, but i just got stuck in and did the job without stopping to admire the scenery. Sorry. Moral of the story: IT CAN BE DONE and using LR Parts, not them after market kits.... Cheers, Ray.

Ok, so if you can select reverse and the car jumps back and stalls, and you can select a forward gear and it jumps forward and stalls, and the front brakes are not binding and the rear prop-shaft is removed, the gearbox is probably not the issue. That really only leaves the IRD... You're only getting a fraction of rotation to the front drive-shafts before something in there locks right up.

Can you move the gear shift at all? It might be stuck in a high gear but if you can move the gear shift, then a linkage has probably come apart between the shift and the gearbox which should be easy to find and fix. If you cant move the gear shift, then it's probably internal to the gearbox, bit more complicated....

Well, I finally bit the bullet and attempted this fairly long but, in the end uncomplicated, job. I had imported a new matrix about a year ago but had been puting the job off as I could not even begin to get my head around having to remove the whole dash. I had bypassed the matrix on the engine side of the firewall with a simple U shaped bit of copper to keep the coolant circulation going. Anyway, today it was warm and sunny so I parked the Freebster outside and got started. Here's a rough "as done" report... 1. Removed the drivers airbag ( 2 x Torx T30). 2. Removed steering wheel (1 x 19mm nut). 3. Removed upper and lower steering column fascia (2 x philips screws). 4. Removed rotary coupler (4 x philips screws). 5. Removed indicator and wiper stalk assembly (1 x philips screw/clamp). 6. Removed clock (2 x philips screws). 7. Unplugged harness from fuse box. 8. Removed heater and radio fascia (2 x philips screws). 9. Removed radio (poked 4 x 4" nails down the holes to release). 10. Removed front part of centre console (2 x philips screws low down on each side of gear stick). 12. Unplugged main dash harnesses on left and right behind radio. 13. Removed passenger airbag (4 x Torx E11). 14. Removed left and right 'A' pillar fascias (prise out by hand, spring-clips). 15. Removed entire dash (12 x M8 bolts), worked it back far enough to unplug mirror control cable and then over the steering column and out of car. 16. Removed heater control cables and harness from control panel and swung it into the l/h footwell. 17. Loosen and move left outer heat duct to the left (1 x M8 bolt), remove left inner heat duct. 18. Loosen and move right outer heat duct to the right (1 x M8 bolt), move right inner heat duct to the right. 19. Compress and remove round duct between filter box and heater unit. 20. Remove 2 x M8 nuts at front top and 1 x M8 bolt lower rear of heater and remove heater straight to the rear. (Assumes coolant pipes already disconnected on engine side of firewall.) At this stage it pretty much looks like this: Here's the heater unit out, (the pic is upside down) showing the leakage from the matrix. the yellow arrow points to where I found a pinprick hole in the soldering. I pressurised the matrix with a bit of water in it to locate the leak. I had intended to just replace it, but the blue-box one I'd bought was, frankly, a friggen horror story, (no surprises there really...) so I decided to repair the original. I just used a very small oxy-acetylene flame and some solder. I re-tested with compressed air and it was holding well with over 30 psi so I whacked it back in. Here's a look at the crystalised OAT coolant inside the unit after I removed the matrix for repair. Once I had the repaired matrix back in the unit, I reversed the process detailed above to get everything back in. In all, a 6 hour job. Not complicated, you just have to plod along and it all comes out. It was actually not as bad a job as I had thought. It's just a case of unplugging the main connectors ( x 3) and the loom and cluster stays with the dash when it comes out. Ray.

Remember that the heater matrix is part of the coolant circuit. You could be losing coolant slowly into the carpet in the passenger side footwell and not realising it. I have this issue now and have bypassed the heater matrix while I build up the gumption to pull the whole dash out and replace the matrix... Not looking forward to that job...

BogMonster, cheers for the heads up about the little inline filters, i found the turbo one today when I did the main intake air filter and did give it a bit of attention. It may well have been contributing.

I've just changed the air filter and also put in an original Bosch MAF sensor and cannot replicate the issue so might have sorted it now. Will do some more mileage tomorrow and see.

Hi team,I guess I realy mean a negative surge... Our Freebie just started hesitating on hills and on the straights when punching it. It felt like it was a fueling issue so I changed the fuel filter and also checked the one on the in-tank pump. No change. There are no DTC's showing on the Bearpaw scanner. After doing the filters, when it started missing again on the test drive, I wondered about the turbo sticking or something. What's the symptom of turbo issues? Any ideas? Thanks, Ray.

Thanks guys, that's good feedback so far. She's done 240,000 k's so I'm wondering about that flywheel.... I have acquired new slave and master cylinders etc, and clutch and cover, but had not counted on having to do the flywheel. I might just take a punt if there's nothing obvious wrong with it. I'll check the LuK and Valeo sites out. Cheers, Ray.

Hi, has anyone done this job? I've had a trawl through the tech archive and didn't get any hits. Would appreciate knowing any "gotchas" or tips for this please. TIA, Ray.

Run tubes in your tyres and deflate to 6lb when in the clague. That will double your pad area and lower your gearing a bit, both of which will make a big difference to your traction. Carry an electric pump to restore tyre pressures before you hit the tarseal again.

Diesel I think, for economy and low-down power. We towed a double horse box for years with a Nissan LD28 powered 90 and it really pitched up and down because of the short wheelbase, but the motor was smooth. The 110 has been much nicer to tow with given the extra wheelbase, and the V8 Disco tows very nicley but is expensive to run.

Nice one Gruntus. Looking at your rails, your old seats must've been like mine, the mid 80's two peice ones with the fixed backrest and the drop-in pad on the wood base? Ray.

If you mark the shaft, compressor turbine and nut to show their relative positions before you dissassemble, you can wing it. WARNING: The nut will probably be reverse threaded, undo clockwise. Ray.

Here's the site where I got my info from. But he's gone to a lot more trouble than I did with his mounting, he made stiffeners which he put on top of the seat box. http://www.clarke.ca/post.cfm/saab-9000-seats-in-land-rover I just put the Saab rails straight on to the seat box. I have put large flat washers inside the seatbox though, which the rail bolts go though, because a couple of the rail bolts do end up too far from the folded or doubled areas of the alloy seat box. There would have been a bit of flex. After working out where the rails go and where you're going to drill, undo the horizontal bolts on each side of the seat-bases and remove the bases from the frames. Then you can work through the frames to do up nuts etc inside the seatbox. You can see the bolts I'm taking about in a couple of that guys pictures. You'll pretty much lose easy access to the battery box, so it would pay to run an isolation switch for your battery +ve, if you haven't already, and an Anderson Plug somewhere if you need to attach jumper leads. You would have to undo the bolts on each side of the seat base and remove it from the frame to get to the battery for maintenance etc. In the cab of the 110, I can't get as much rake on the seatback as I'd really like, because the top of the seatback hits the back of the cab. In a station wagon, you'd be sweet. Ray.

Glad that worked out. The 216 used to hesitate under load after running for a while and someone told me to do the rotor. I did, but used one that came in the dreaded Blue Box and within a month the 216 had stopped dead on the motorway and had to be recovered. Same fault. After that we carried a spare rotor in the glove box until we managed to flick the 216 and get the Freebie TD4. We live and learn... Ray.

These are my '96 Saab 9000 seats... Soooo comfy, drivers has lumbar support adjustment, height adjustment and front edge adjustment for under your thighs. Ray

The rotor arm in the K series distributor can cause this, had it happen at least twice in a Rover 216 SLi. Try a new rotor arm, NJE10003. That's if it's not something more basic like it's got no oil or water and is seizing after it's been running for a few minutes! Ray.

If it's possible, try swapping the plugs of the pre-tensioners around, so the system thinks it's talking to the L/H but it's actually talking to the R/H. If the fault is then reported as "Belt-pretensioner right fault", then you do have a faulty left pre-tensioner. Also try spraying contact cleaner on the plugs/sockets of the pre-tensioner cables. The hi-resistance can be a result of dirty or loose connections. Ray.