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disconewhere

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Everything posted by disconewhere

  1. Holy thread revival! FridgeFreezer did you ever work out if a disco pas drop arm would fit a non pas box?
  2. Excellent thank you!! Mine is what I believe to be an 86" bonnet and is 925mm so there is possibly only 1" different between 86 and 88, unless ming is a cut down 88".
  3. Ok, so this might be a daft question but Google hasn't helped me with any answers. Can anyone tell me how long a series one 88" bonnet is? Thanks
  4. Thanks Mike and TSD, I'll look in to the catches. As for my build, the pace is glacial at the moment, but when things start to progress I'll start a thread!
  5. Your build is looking awesome Mike. I'm on the other side of the world from you and very slowly undertaking an LR build of my own. I really like the look of the door latches that you've used, any chace you could tell me where you got them or what you got them off? Cheers
  6. I've been playing with my 90 again and have struck some more problems so thought I'd put up a post, maybe it'll help others in the future. My 90 was originally a truck cab, though when I got it the roof was missing. It didn't come with a fob either, not sure if it would have had one when new anyway? Any how, now that it's been rebuilt it's pretty much in county trim and it's our only vehicle so I thought I'd sort out the central locking to make it a bit more user friendly. I have access to a rovacom so I've had a look at the settings in the 10AS and had a bit of a play. Problem is the settings don't seem to make much of a difference. I've opened up the 10AS and found that it has no CDL relay so central locking will never work. It does have the hazard flash relay though but I cannot get the 10AS to flash the hazards in the output test mode. I've had a play with an older 10AS out of a Disco and loaded my coding data into it and sure enough it does everything that my 10AS does, and still doesn't flash the hazard lights, it has a cdl relay but does not operate this either. Another interesting bit is that the 10AS will learn a FOB code, the counter will increment when the FOB is used but it won't set the alarm, immobilize, flash the hazards or operate the cdl. Seems like there might be more in the coding data than the settings let on. Does anyone have a copy of the coding data out of their county that has alarm, cdl and immobilizer that they may wish to share so I can try it out in mine?
  7. Thanks for your input guys. As expected put another ECU in and away it goes. The old ECU was a flash programmable one, the one I've borrowed is a non flash type, but that won't be too much of a problem as my new one should be here in a week or so. Just have to drive on a standard fuel map for a week thats all : ( Interestingly enough it's made some subtle differences straight up. The injector variance codes aren't going to be perfect since you can't enter late codes into early ECUs. However I have noticed that at idle it is much smoother than before, and the power balance numbers look much better. I'm not getting the "high speed crank" fault either. can't wait to see how it runs with a new flash programmable ECU with the after market fuel map in it!! Now I just need to take it for a run somewhere and see if it uses less gas. Not that 12L/100km is bad for the thrashing it gets. Cheers Mike
  8. Hi All, Thought I'd post this up as it may be of use to someone else down the line. I've got a Td5 90, had been a spot wet before I got it. Well actually when I first looked at buying it, the ecu was dripping wet, though it still ran : ) Well i've had it running for the last 6-12 months but I've not been entirely happy with it, slightly rough idle, and not returning the fuel milage that another similar 90 returns. Been through most things apart from injector, crank sensor and ECU replacement. On the weekend I thought I'd see if cleaning up the corrosion off the ECU and plugs would help, so away I went with a bit of electrical cleaner. Looking relatively corrosion free I plugged it back in, turned the key and it fired into life straight away as usual, but after about a second it stopped, fuel pump and everything. After some more investigation I'm really no further ahead and it appears that the little clean up may have finished off the ECU, all relays and fuses appear fine, once it stops I have to wait about 15 seconds with the key off so that I can restart it again otherwise it will not fire at all. Next thing to do was plug in the rovacom as I thought it might have been immobilzer code issues, relearnt the code, still no better, ECU self tests fine too. Next up is to replace the ECU and see what happens. Anyone else had similar symptoms? Will try the new computer tomorrow and see what happens, most likely it's the computer, will let you know.
  9. Managed to get the bits together to check the fuel pressure/flow, discovered it was nowhere near the 4bar it should have been, sorted the problem and it a whole new vehicle. It really pulls on the hills now, and I've been for a bit of a play off road and am really impressed. Thanks for all your help guys.
  10. Ian, you mentioned above about correct removal of the EGR. I noticed tonight that the rovacom says that the EGR modulator is enabled, since I have no modulator I'm thinking that this is a possible cause of my problems. Have you ever heard of similar problems when removing EGR?
  11. Cheers for the input guys, I will check the fuel pressure tonight and recheck the power balancing now after I have replaced the injector loom. Next step will be adjusting the injectors and replacing the washers, the injectors have never been out as far as I know so will beinteresting to see what effect that has. Cheers
  12. More experimentation tonight. I checked the wastegate, it's free and I can only assume it is closing completely. I cleaned up the MAP sensor as well, not too sure if it has made any difference though. Next I tried disconnecting the the wastegate actuator again, the over boost is now operating, it will hit the overboost limit and then reduce fueling, it is still drive-able just has reduced power. Turn it off and back on again and away it goes again until it over boosts again. It's still not going as expected, I might try uploading another map to see what that changes. I didn't get a chance to try the silencer out, though I suspect this will not revel anything as I would have thought the EGT would be very high when under power if the exhaust was blocked, also the turbo would probably not boost too well, though I will try it as I'm open to anything at the moment.
  13. Cheers Ian, No, it never had EGR. It was a Truckcab and it's New Zealand new so probably a different spec to UK ones with EGR etc. Yes, still have a centre silencer, might whip it off and go for a spin and see how it goes, I want to remove it eventually anyway. One thing I have noticed is that I don't hear the whistle of the turbo at idle, might be because the silencer is blocked, will have to try. No fault codes get logged, only get the over boost logged if I disconnec the wastegate actuator. The water temp gauge works fine, starts low moves to roughly the middle as would be expected when warm. Ahhhh, that explains the pressure read by the Rovacom, will have to have take it for a ride up the hills and see how it reads. I'll check the fuel pressure tomorrow!! I really hope it's not the injectors!!! Would the adjustment affect the performance much? I'm going to whip the silencer off now and try it. Cheers Mike
  14. Hey Ian, Cheers for the reply, I forgot to say, it's a 2002 model, has the programmable ECU but no CAT, EGR or Wastegate Modulator. Not sure who the map came from, it was in the vehicle when I got it, the previous owner can't remember whos it was but says it used to go well. I plan on building a "boost box" but I want to get the truck running with remaped fueling without making any other mods. I haven't been for a drive on the hills with the Rovacom on, but isn't 220kPa a bit high, I remember reading somewhere that the over boost setting is something like 24psi(165kpa). With the wastegate actuator disconnected ie wastegate disabled I only see about 22psi on my boost gauge. I'm seeing 60kg/hr at idle from the MAF, was the same with both the old and the new one, so I've ruled that out, I hope ; ) I'm still scratching my head, I'm going to head home soon so will have a bit more of a play. Cheers for your help, Mike
  15. Hi all. I've finally got my 90 (My first 90!!!) back together again, it needed a few new body panels after a bit of a roll. I brought it rolled and this is the first time I've driven it, the drivetrain is standard, it's on 35 inch tyres and the ECU has been remapped. The problem with it is that it is really guttless down low, say under 2000 rpm and really isn't that impressive above 2000rpm, though it still goes ok. I know of another vehicle with the same ECU map and it goes very well. I think I'm being realistic about performance, I previously had a Discovery that I had fitted 35's to and had increased fueling/boost, it was much more drivable than the 90. Here is what I have tried so far. 1. Replaced fuel and air filter. 2. I have access to a Rovacom and have checked the faults, no faults logged. I did notice that the power balancing was between -5 and +10 depending on cylinder at idle? 3. Replaced the MAF, small improvement but very minimal. 4. Replaced the injector loom, runs smoother at idle but no change to power. 5. I have a boost gauge installed in the inlet manifold, this shows about 16psi as max boost. 6. I have disconnected the wastgate actuator and the engine will log an over boost fault however there is no noticable change in engine performance, from everything I have read it should almost be undrivable once overboost is reached? I'm not really sure where to head next with fault finding. I have noticed that it never smokes which intruiges me given that it has been remapped, I would have expected some smoke. The next things on my list to do are: Check that the wastgate is closing completely Check fuel pressure Adjust the injectors Borrow another ECU to try in my vehicle Clean/replace the MAP sensor I've done a lot of searching on various forums etc trying to find information on the problem I'm having however I can't seem to find any info. Has anyone experienced or heard of similar problems? I'd be very interested to hear your thoughts, I running out of ideas!!!
  16. Do you know if you can get barrels for the liftup handle, early 110 doors, the barrel is physically different to the later ones and the key is a different shape.
  17. Hi Everyone. I have a question for you all, I can't find the answer but I'm sure one of you must have been here before. I have an 03 td5 90, it was rolled when I got it so I rebuilt it and have put on lift-up handle wind up window doors. The problem I have now is that I really don't want to have 4 keys, Ignition, Front doors, Rear door and fuel cap. I know that I will have to have a seperate key for the ignition, but is it possible to key all the doors and filler cap the same? The lift-up handle wind up window barrels are different to any others by the look of them, can you buy a different barrel that takes the normal defender type door key? Hope that makes sense. Cheers
  18. I'm totally with you on the lift up catches!!! Mine is'nt a challenge truck, it'll be to nice and straight for that, though it will have lockers, 35's and my 8274:) The tops I have are the aluminium type, they are cool, just not sure that they will be practical for our only car. You never get the full window opening and you have to check they are locked, no big drama, but just a consideration.
  19. So I have a bit of a dilemma!!! I've got a 2003 Td5 90 truck cab that was rolled:( After it was rolled the owner took off the roof and doors(and got rid of them so I'm missing those bits), roughly straightened the firewall and put a series roof and doors on it and carried on using it. When I got hold of it I pulled it apart, I've re-paneled it with all new panels on the lower half and made my own rear tub, I managed to get hold of a 110 5 door roof so I extended the sides and shortened the roof up. It's starting to take shape now and look like a 90!!! The problem I have is doors, I have some early 110 sliding window doors that are pretty rough but I have new skins for them and they will come up really well after a bit of tlc. I'm not sure that I want sliding windows though, but I do want lift up catches rather than the push button type. I can get a set of lift up catch windup window doors but they will need repairing and therefore reskinning, only problem is that the company that makes the skins has closed down by the sound of it:( So here are my questions for you!!! Is there somewhere I can get new skins for the winding window liftup catch doors? Does any one have some photos of a 90 that has sliding window doors with a CSW top? I'm not sure how the sliding windows will look with the CSW sides. Should I just run with the sliding windows? Oh yeah, I'm in New zealand too, defender parts are pretty rare here:( Cheers guys
  20. They look awesome, not to mention your 109!!!! Cheers FridgeFreezer
  21. The project continues, Tonight I've been working out how everything is going to fit. Two things I really want to achieve with my 90 are: 1. Minimal suspension lift 2. Close to standard steering lock But I still want to fit 35s..... To achieve number 1 here is what I'm thinking about. I'm not keen to modify the front inner guards so this gives me a point to start from, I really need to space the bump stops down 50mm to keep the tyres from rubbing at full lock and articulation, I'll also put 50mm shorter shock towers on, I'm working on the plan of 3 linking the front too. I am rebuilding the rear tub so up travel won't be a problem in the back, however to balance with the front I'll drop the shock mounts a matching 50mm with bump stops to suit. When it comes to ride height I'm planning on running about centre of travel (100mm up, 100mm down), this means that there will be about 100mm between bump stop and axle at ride height. Does any one know what a standard CSW 90 ride height is and where it is measured? Anyone see any problems with running mid travel for ride height? Now number 2. With the 35x12.5s running on 7inch rims I figure if I try to keep the inside edge of the tyre at a similar place to the original 7.50s then the lock will be reduced only slightly. Here is what I've worked out. The inside edge of the original tyres sits about 127mm inside of the hub/wheel mounting surface. This is with standard wheels(-33mm offset) and 7.50s. The 35's are 100mm wider than the 7.50s so this means that the rim offset would have to change by 50mm, my 7" rim would need a back space of roughly 75mm(3") So question is, what are your thoughts on wheel offsets? Would a 3" backspace make the 90 un-steerable at low speed? Will it wear wheel bearings like crazy??? I'm thinking of putting on some of the Innovation 4x4 Extended Flexi arches if I go with this much offset. All thoughts appreciated. Cheers Guys
  22. Cheers for the info Fridge Freezer, any chance you have some photos with them fitted?
  23. Hi Everyone, I'm in the process of putting my 03 Td5 90 back together, it was a bit of a sad sight when I got it as it had been rolled. Anyway since all the wheel arch spats were torn and generally rough I'm going to replace them. I was thinking of using standard ones but with the 35's on maybe some extended ones would be better. I like the look of both of these Innovation 4x4 Flexi Flares and these MPS4x4 Extended Arches Does anyone have any photos of either type fitted to a vehicle? Also the ones from MPS4x4 look similar to the GRP Innovation 4x4 ones, does anyone know if they are the same and how flexible they are? Cheers Guys Mike
  24. Ian, Thanks for that info, I'm still a bit undecided on the roof thing, I have some early 110 sliding window doors that I might use so I might just shorten a LWB series roof and make it fit the defender windscreen, will see how that goes, spending £2000 on the roof seems a bit silly when I only paid slightly more than that for the 90. ECUs, well my ECU part number is NNN00120 so it should be programmable, though the rovacom doesn't want to program it, I've read the map and varient out of it but when I go to program it it tells me to confirm that it is a reflashable ECU. The ECU has been quite wet and looks a bit corroded so I'll give it a clean up and see how that goes, it should be ok hopefully. Just out of interest, what would you expect to pay for a second hand reflashable ECU in the UK? How well to the boost boxes work? I'd thought of building one as there isn't much to them(electronically speaking). Though I don't know how the ECU map works, if the map does not take boost into account when working out fueling apart form a max value for fuel cut out then they should work fine asuming the airflow table will handle the extra airflow at full rpm and full boost. I have a map out of a 90 that goes really well and have compared that to the map out of mine, I've identified the different values in the map and am working form this point, I'm not sure how well this will work and whether I will be able to figure out the map but hopefully I will be able to make a new map for my engine rather than buying someone elses map. You can only try ha!!! Cheers for your help.
  25. Hi Everyone, Well first off I'm from New Zealand, Over here we a little more deprived of Land rovers that in the UK but we still have a few. Anyway I have a chance to by a 2003 TD5 90 that has been rolled. Replacing the lower panels will not be a problem, however 90 county roofs are very hard to come by over here. Can any one give me a rough idea of what I'd pay for a County roof and rear door in the UK? As I may consider shipping one out. Also my current vehicle is a 3door 200tdi Disco on 35's, I've done some fiddling and it goes really well, it's basically running with no waste gate and has survived the last 40000km, I'd really like to tweak the TD5 in the 90 if I can. Does anyone know what the story is with TD5 ECUs? Apparently the later ones you can just reprogram the map but the earlier ones require a new chip. Are the ECU's the same apart from that, could I just install a EEPROM in place of the existing ROM and program it as a later one? Are there any websites around that are worth a look? Cheers
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