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Scott R

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    Northampton
  1. If anyone is interested there is a whole weekend available to off road. 26th/27th April, that's the weekend after Easter. Just the Saturday will cost £25 Just the sunday will cost £25 But come for the 2 days and it will cost £30 and that's with camping thrown in. There will be evening off roading (within reason) on Saturday evening with loads of us camping over etc. No need to pre book, the more the merrier. Anyone who doesn't know where Whaddon is or how to get there- www.whaddon4x4mx.co.uk
  2. The thread in the end of the mainshaft is a standard M12. A suitable piece of tube, a thick washer, a piece of M12 threaded rod and an M12 nut has always worked for me.
  3. www.shop4autoparts.net do a few bits but you have to buy separately not as kits. You won't beat the customer service, advice and experience that you'd get from Ashcrofts thou.
  4. Watching that video its telling me that its lost oil feed to the inlet side. With no rocker cover on there should be oil being flicked everywhere. The oil ways are between the head and cam carrier, if they were separated then what type and how much sealant was used between them? Could the oil way be blocked?
  5. I might have got it wrong but According to the measurements you have posted above, the smallest size there is 3.698 and the biggest is 3.701. (That's ignoring the occasional 4th figure of half thous). That's only 3thou difference between all 8 cylinders, not bad for a used block. The maximum difference on any one cylinder is 2thou, and your worried about finding a machine shop to get an accuracy of less than 1thou?? Or have I read this threat wrongly??
  6. The grease is there to sparingly smear on the input splines where the centre plate moves on it. I've seen people use handfuls of normal grease to only get hot and contaminate the new clutch. Some on the pivot points of the fork wouldn't hurt either. Grease should only be used on the release bearing if there is metal to metal contact and not if the inside of the release bearing is plastic/nylon.
  7. I'm 95% sure they come as finished size, just pressed fit then maybe a light scrapping if the cam is too tight in there. That's how the 200/300tdi ones are, I had some done a few months back.
  8. Best thing to do is take all your documents to your local DVLA office if its close by. Take all the documents for both vehicles, V5, MOT plus serial number for both tax discs. You will only need the insurance if retaxing a vehicle. They will check everything, making sure the corect form(s) are filled in. My local office won't do a tranfer over the counter anymore but the ammemded documents, new tax discs and forms to aquire new number plates are sent back via post within 7 days. The new V5's take the usual upto 4 weeks to arrive from Swansea, but from personal experience they usually arrive within 2 weeks.
  9. Have heard this problem before, it turned out to be a half blocked fuelline. Check all the fuel lines and make sure there are no restrictions in the lines or filter.
  10. Not sure how long it has been on there, (maybe only from january 1st as i hadn't noticed it till after?), but tyre protrusion is on the list of advices, So cannot be a failure
  11. Basically the answer is yes. Looking at it myself as i prefer the 200 over the 300 and am rebuilding my poorly 300. The thermostat housing will fit after a bit of ali welding modification but only in 3 places to bring the casting upto the same level as the gasket face where the new bolt holes will be. The rocker cover will need a hole near the front for the crankcase breather. The combustion chamber in the piston crown is not in the same place, slightly different shapes but the same capacity. So ideally you need the corresponding piston. I haven't got as far as looking at angles the injectors sit at etc yet. At the moment i'm looking at using 300 block, crank, thermostat housing, front casings so it will bolt straight back in my 300 disco. 200 pistons, con rods, head, injectors, pump. 300 manifolds and turbo. This should give me a 200 that will fit in my disco with no mountings mods, no exhaust or pipework mods and an easy cambelt change. But only ideas at the moment as i may come across something that stops me.
  12. When i rebuilt my diffs i phoned my local bearing supplier and was quoted £130 and that included a decent discount! But they couldn't guanentee Timken. Spoke to my local independant LR dealer (who likes cash sales) and got the set of 4 timken bearings with new seal for £30. Have found a company on the net called www.Express4x4.co.uk which is part of Island4x4.They list them for £30ish + vat + p&p. Paddocks only sell "aftermarket" Part numbers for the standard diffs are 539706 and 539707 for the pinion bearings. RTC2727 for the 10 spline side bearings or RTC3095 for the 24 spline.
  13. As above, there are pro's and con's as with any setup. Got a fairy pto winch myself and i've pulled a 90 through a bog qicker than an 8274 can spool in under no load. It does get a pain putting the transfer box in and out of neutral everytime but i've never had it struggle even when faced with a vehicle upto the bonnet in thick mud.
  14. Looks like another ebay name to add to the list. Stonmarmx http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260634791884&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
  15. You don't say what vehicle or what year it is? So not stating if they should be unf or metric thread? And 5? The picture shows 10, plus the hubs must have been drilled and tapped to suit, add the fact that they are cap head which weren't standard fitment which means they were provided for that purpose. So sorry but i'm not sure what your asking or what i'm answering???
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