ScottinAZ

Chris, If you mean by boot -- a boot that goes around the connectors on the inside of the fender. Rovers North in Vermont sells a kit: http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5623-tail-lamp-boot-kit-defender-90.aspx. It includes everything from new bulb carriers with pigtails, the rubber boots and silcone sealant. It is somewhat of a pain to install, but worth it. I also use dielectric grease in the sockets to combat the corrosion of the sockets, which causes us to fail our safety inspections -- like your MOT, but only controlled by the individual states, not federal government. Scott 93 NAS D110 V8i 95 NAS D90 V8i

It looks like if you were to use a Fram filter it would be a Fram PH16. (This assumes that the LR Part number for your filter is ERR3340 (the same filter used in all of the V8i that have been imported to the US over the years. Here are the specs from Fram for a PH16: Product Type Full-Flow Lube Spin-on Anti-Drain Valve YES Gasket I.D. 2.42" Gasket O.D. 2.8" Gasket Thickness .2" Gasket Usage Base Product Height 3.69" Product I.D. 3/4-16 Th'd Product O.D. 3.66" Relief Valve Setting PSI 12

Check the Fram oil filter website for a specs for a Fram filter that fits your engine.

BTW, on the discussion of when did LR change the swivels...My 95 NAS D90 SW, which was built in late 95(took delivery in January 1996) had EP90 swivels.

What is a tachograph?

My 95 NAS D90 Station Wagon was $32000

I have two NAS V8s - there is nothing in that switch blank. Also, always thought the hole with the round plug was for a hand throttle-- basically a throttle that could be used for stationary PTO applications.

The 90 was done for $400 and the 110 for $480 at Auto Trim in Mesa, Arizona. This was much better than buying a new headliner -- I have seen them in the States for about $1200.

I tried that route with my sagging NAS D90 SW headliner. Couldn't make it work. Took headliner to a auto trim shop and had it recovered in a nice light grey vinyl. Never looked better. Just did the same with my NAS 110.

Hi Naks If you still have the Puma Defender workshop manual available to download I'd appreciate it if you could send me a link. Many thanks, Scott

As requested. Here is the recovered headliner with 3 newer style lights (with three LED festoon bulbs) (each has six leds in it). By the way, the headliner and lights were installed Wednesday and today the intermediate seats and side panels went in today. So your question was very timely. I am very happy, especially with the light thrown by the three LED bulbs.

Sure. I took my old headliner out -- four pieces. Took it to a local auto trim shop and had them recover with a heavy gauge vinyl-based material. I did the same for a NAS 95 D90 a few years ago. The D90 cost $400 and the D110 cost $480. Both far cheaper than a new headliner (if you can source) in the US. I have seen D90 new headliners going for about $1200 here in the states. Both times, I made sure the trim people did not cut any holes, wanted to cut them myself.

Just yesterday, I fitted 3 AMR3155 lights into the recovered headliner of my 93 NAS D110, replacing the single light. Furthermore, I bought three high power leds from http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Ffestoonhp_3710-xHPx.htm to replace the standard bulbs. The results are the lights are bright enough to read a newspaper outside in the middle of the night standing next to the truck. The three fixtures were mounted (1) above the front seats, 2) above the middle seats and (3) towards the rear of the load space,

Wack, Having removed my seat box from my 93 NAS D110, it sounds like either your battery box or tool box has rusted into two pieces. The seat box itself (as well as the floor panels) are aluminum. Both the battery box and tool box are steel. These components are riveted in place. I would suggest removing the seat box from the vehicle, drill out all of the rivets to disassemble the seat box into its components, repaint all of the components and reassemble. When reinstalling into the vehicle, replace the seals. When the set box is removed, check the condition of the seat box ends -- they tend to corrode as the aluminum seat box ends sit on the steel sills and galvanic corrosion takes it toll (ie, if you wait long enough the seat boxes will disappear). I did all of this to replace my seat box ends with panels supplied by YRM Metal Solutions in the UK. I also purchased new aluminum floor panels from Britcar in the UK. I would expect Britcar would source the replacement battery or tool box as needed. If you want, I can provide pictures of the disassembly and reassembly process. Bottom line, my seat box now looks new, all seals are new and it is ready for another 30 years of service. I also, painted the battery box and seat box interiors with Herculiner -- a rubberized product made the line the beds of pickup trucks. Scott Scottsdale, Arizona (the wild, wild, west)

I have no idea what a 52 plate 110 CSW is. But....I have a 93 NAS D110 -- one of 525 110s prepared for the US and Canadian markets. Recently I had my dash fully removed so I could repair some corrosion on the bulkhead. Now, as I was putting it back together, I was amazed at the number of wires in the "loom" that are not obviously connected to anything. That said, I am happy to report I have a functional front screen heated windscreen. When a shop cracked the original windscreen while replacing the seal, the local Landrover Dealership (which really specializes in Range Rovers) quoted $1200 and three weeks for a replacement. I would be happy to quote a list of components from my NAS workshop manual needed for making your heated windshield work. While I am happy to restore to initial coniditon, I doubt I will ever use the heated windscreen in Scottsdale Arizona.