Pyrover

Do you know if the 300Tdi corners will fit my 200Tdi or is there more than a cosmetic difference. Only I'm looking to change out the corners, tub capping and lights all in one go.

Could someone please tell me whether the holes for the indicator and brake light are larger on the later versions of the end body capping. Only I've read somewhere that you need to cut larger holes when fitting the later version lights or the NAS spec ones. Only I picked up a pair of galvanized corners a few years ago and don't want to cut through the galvanizing to fit new lights (not got the lights yet). If they do need adjusting I'd rather buy a primer coated pair, adjust them, get them galvanized and punt off the pair I have. Cheers.

Cheers guys. Of course the bonnet is shorter what with the radiator being recessed, what was I thinking (D'oh!). Good to hear that at least the tub capping's and the doors should fit, as my 110 NA could also do with a replacement rear door. Shame about the roof though.

The time has come to change the doors on my 200TDi 110, however I've never been a big fan of the push button doors on Defenders and much prefer the lift up type on my early 110, therefore I've been looking at getting a pair of series doors instead. As luck would have it I now have access to a 109 being scrapped and was looking at some of the other bits on it as well, as the 200TDi has a few other ratty bits in need of replacement. Specifically I'm interested in the doors, bonnet, tub cappings and roof (much prefer the ribbed version ), but not sure which parts will fit and which won't, or if any other bits can be salvaged. Any clue?

Cheers for the prompt reply. Yep I've been looking at the TD5 dash option but it seems like a complete ball-ache to change the dash (not to mention the expense) for the sake of what looks like a 5 penny part. I might just turn off some nylon holders on the lathe if I cant find anything suitable.

Just had the binnacle off on my 200TDi 110 to investigate the why half the dash lights aren't working, only to find that it's the holders which have perished with the heat from the bulbs and have now either snapped, or fallen out of the clocks; therefore is it possible to replace just the holders or will I need to replace the clocks? I've had a search and cannot find any info on this, so any suggestions for an easy replacement would be welcome.

I have posted this in the international section as the impending metrication of the UK by the EU will not only have wide ranging implications for the UK but for those outside the EU buying from the UK. The following is taken from the e-petition: Since 1995 we have been compelled to measure and price merchandise in metric units but allowes to show the imperial equivalent alongside. At the end of 2009 it will become illegal to make any mention of imperial units. The ban will apply to all products, packaging, advertisements, magazines, catalogues, etc. The economic and social effects of this ban will be wide ranging. Industries which export world wide will have major problems - many parts of the world still employ imperial standards. Spare and replacement parts for existing equipment built to imperial standards will cease to be available - it will not be possible to package, advertise or catalogue such items. Thousands of citizens with interests in vintage vehicles, preserved railways, model engineering, etc. will be deprived of legal access to tools and materials to pursue their interests. Public opinion is firmly in favour of retaining the option to use imperial units of measure if they so wish. To sign the petition CLICK HERE.

Depends on what you want the guards to do, if it's to protect the windows from getting broken by stuff in the back of the vehicle then they obviously need to be on the inside. I use my 110 (hardtop) for hauling work related stuff around in and just knocked up a few simple box section and mesh ones, ok not pretty but do the job.

The governments new replacement for the prison ship HMP Weir proved controversial.

Ah.. I see, when they say 500mm they mean 500mm submerged, not 500mm visable.

Although my insurer classes my 110 as a van (mind it does have commecial insurance ), the AA didn't seem to care what the vehicle was so long as it was not over 3500kg and no wider than 7ft 6in (2.3m); didn't seem to care that my cargo was an explosive hazard either (no I'm not Al-Qaeda). I've binned the AA now as they wanted £91 for this years membership , I've now found the same level of cover for £32, bargin. If you're looking for cheap recovery check this out.

That's not what I meant when I said "do you feel a little bolder?" or... There seemed to be some confusion amongst the competitors in the rock crawling section of the course. or.. On closer inspection by the highways agency the new section of the A30 at Goss Moor seemed to be degrading a lot quicker than anticipated. or.. Only the body remained as a stark reminder of the Suzuki's failed attempt the previous year.

Yep.. definitely smells like we're up s**t creek.

Try taking a look at this list of ZF boxes on Wikipedia, as it may help identify possible donor vehicles. Failing that these guys might be able to help answer your question, as they know about all things Jag related. HTH

Yet another great how to.

According to the 1991 military parts manual the 2.5NA has a LT77 gearbox fitted and has the prefix 51A, I currently have a military LT77 box fitted to my 110 and that's what stamped on mine. As for the transfer box the manual says it should be a 20D (1.667 ratio), if it's 22D (1.410 ratio) then it's possibly not the original and has been changed to alter the gearing. Edited to add: If you own a ex-MOD 90 you may find these downloads useful, also take a look at Ashcroft Transmissions website. HTH

BLIMEY....!!!

Cheers guys that's exactly the type of answer I was looking for, the "you can simply work it out for your self like this..." ones are always the best. According to my abacus my 2.5NAD knocks out around 268g/km. All of a sudden the £5 increase doesn't look too bad now.

I did mine last year and didn't find it too bad to do. I used a crossmember supplied by Devon4X4 (ANR2056 - £151.56) , the one with the chassis extensions (think it's a Bearmach one). I found this to be a lot tinnier and lightweight than the one I cut off, it also didn't have the hole for the fuel pipe cut in the main tub support (only found this out after fitting). If you do get one of these do your self a favour and strengthen it like Les Henson has done in this great how to. When fitting mine I took the rear tub completely off as it was the easiest option for me (had other stuff to do to it). basically I just lined up the new crossmember, cut off the old one with a plasma cutter at the right place, offered up the new one, put the rear tub on temporarily and bolted the crossmember to the rear of the tub, tacked it in place, removed the tub and then welded the crossmember fully on. Easy as that realy. Heres a few pics: The new crossmember Zipped off with the plasma cutter. The fuel line hole which was missing on the new crossmember. Job's a good'un.

I must have touched a raw nerve or something (probably recovering from the shock of the budget).

So I'm lead to believe, but surely someone has measured the amount just out of curiosity.

Monocoques! what you need is a good couple of girders underneath that.

Ok there's a lot of talk about CO2 emission levels at the moment (thanks to the budget) and I know that figures for the later engines are often quoted, but just how much CO2 is produced by the older Land Rover engines.

1985 2.5NAD. ...none of this for me then.

I think the definition of a Gas-Guzzler is anything which is ok for government officials to be driven around in but is unacceptable for the populace to drive. is what Greenpeace seem to think constitutes a Gas-Guzzler.Edited: Although God seems to not agree with Greenpeace...