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oldwestern

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  1. Well it's pretty clear from the replies that I'd be daft not to have the hoses replaced, so that'll be next on the 'must do' list. My buddy has already talked of roughening the pads and he'll inspect pistons at the same time. I rang the MOT garage to get the figures and even they couldn't /wouldn't give them to me. They simply said it had passed on effort but failed on inbalance - though why it 's proving so difficult to get a figure of what the minimum effort should be is beyond me. Still, to every one who replied - Thanks for your help. Regards. H.
  2. Thanks, I should've said the brakes were bled just before retesting them. Other folk have suggested :- - replacing brake hoses (they're 15 yrs old) - checking front caliper pistons But I'd still like to know what brake effort should be. H.
  3. First thing to say is that I'm no mechanic whatsoever. However, my friend and neighbour most certainly is, he rebuilt his landrover , virtually from the wheels up, and is helping to repair my '96 Defender 300TDi 110 cws following its MOT failure. As part of the repairs it's had:- New rear brake discs, pads and calipers fitted to both O/S and N/S. Front NS brake caliper removed and later refitted after fixing issue with Stoneguard. Road testing brakes on way to MOT at normal braking seemed fine but effect of hard braking, with hands of steering wheel, left steering wheel straight but front of vehicle to swerved to right. The MOT tester did a brake test before even attempting to do a second MOT, which gave the following results: AXLE 1 - NS: 320 AXLE 1 - OS: 400 AXLE 2 - NS: 310 AXLE 2 - OS: 310 BALANCE:- AXLE 1 - NS: 230 AXLE 2 - NS: 300 My buddy would like to know:- a) what Land Rover's 'official' brake effort figures should be for all-round disc brakes (front vented discs), and I would like to know, in case he gets busy and can't get work on it, b) What should be the order of investigation now? H.
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