edwardbahaw

Update: I can now verify that the timing chain is stretched since I have removed the left hand rocker cover and I am able to turn the crank shaft pulley back and forth approximately 8 degrees before the push rods begin to move. In addition with a probe fitted down in no. 1 cylinder as I turn the crankshaft pulley toward TDC on the compression stroke I can see that there is upward piston movement before the intake valve is fully closed which means less air and less compression leading to difficulty starting and rich running which is the symptom and the cause is a stretched timing chain. So solution is to change timing chain and sprockets. Am I right?

Freezer Thanks for your suggestions. I have checked all the mentioned sensors before. I even have a hawkeye pro 2 which interfaces with the ecu using a special cable and all sensors are good (most are new btw) I already removed all the plugs which makes the engine easy to turn by hand and I discovered that I can move the crank about 4 degrees back and forth and without the distributor rotor moving. This can be a worn distributor drive gear or a stretched timing chain. Thoughts anyone before I strip out more parts?

Hi all Just an update to everyone on my findings and plan going forward. If I advance the ignition timing by turning the distributor anti-clockwise by about 10 degrees it starts perfectly but if I test drive there is significant pinging. To solve the pinging I gradually returned the distributor to its original position in 2 degree movements. Each time I fired it up and test drove and each time it became even harder to start. The pinging only goes away when the distributor has been returned to its original position at which point to get it started is extremely difficult. It cranks fine but it does not fire. I have to step on the accelerator and then it struggles to fire up until about 5 attempts with each attempt being about 2 to 3 seconds of cranking. With the ignition advanced its starts on the first attempt without having to step on the accelerator. So my plan forward in the absence of a timing light and timing marks on the crank pulley I am going to remove all spark plugs except no. 1. Then with the distributor cap removal I am going to rotate the engine by hand using the 24 mm nut on the crank pulley. My aim is to see if i get full compression just at the point when the distributor rotor aligns with the no1 spark plug (5 o clock position) If it fails this test then my conclusion is the engine timing (valve, piston TDC and ignition) is off and I would have to strip the front and correct it. Does this make sense or is there a better way? Ed

Update: After alot of online research I just advanced the ignition timing a bit and it starts spot on now BUT when it is driven there is significant pinging. Is this a stretch timing chain? Ed

Rangy Thanks for your reply. I usually crank for 3 second intervals and it takes about 5 attempts. Also I need to press on the accelerator to get it to started otherwise it would not start period. Can you remind me how to test the voltage on the coil when cranking? Much appreciated. Ed

Thanks for the reply Josh! I reckon these sparks don't look blue and fat? The replacement parts are OEM. I actually have a Hawkeye pro 2.0 and the cable which connects to the diagnostic socket on the 14cux ECU which gives live data on: fuel injection pulse width, MAF voltage signal, TPS voltage, signal, coolant temperate etc I'm gonna do some research now on the MAF voltage signal to see if mine is within range during tick over. Does anyone know what is the required pulse width during cranking? Mines go up to around 6.8ms during cranking for fuel enrichment I figure to sync with the open air bypass valve compared to around 3.5ms at idle.

I have a NAS spec 3.9 V8 fitted on a 110 defender and the problem is that it starts poorly. It takes about 5 attempts before it starts. It also runs quite rich as determined by the strong scent of the exhaust fumes.Today I have replaced the plugs with a set of clean used ones and took a video of the sparks from one of the plugs which I removed. See the you tube link below. These sparks seem very weak to me. In case you are wondering the plug is earthed via a jumper lead. Also, swapping the plugs has not rectified the starting problem nor the excessive fumes from the exhaust. Previously in an attempt to solve this problem I have already changed the following using new parts. Ignition coil Rotor Distributor cap Ignition module/amplifier HT Leads Any thoughts or suggestions are highly appreciated.

Great! Thanks again!

Thanks much! Is it QEP105750 or QEP105760?

Hi all Does anyone know the part number for the PAS hydraulic hose from the pump to the steering box on a 1997, 300tdi discovery? Regards Ed

Hi all Does anyone know the part number for the PAS hydraulic hose from the pump to the steering box on a 300tdi discovery? Regards Ed

Here is an update! I replaced the turbo however it's still smoking! Here are some pictures of the ports along the cylinder head. There appears to be a small amount of oil along the valve stems in ports 2, 3 ,5 and 6. What do you guys think? Ed

The previous sender you may have fitted was a TD5!

Hi Gren Thanks for the reply! I have also found that the 300tdi cyclone is carp and I have simply detached the hose at the air intake side and instead ran it to the underside of the vehicle. As a result all oil vapour is vented underneath and there is zero oil entering the air intake. There is also no oil whatsoever in my intercooler! I think I am going to have the turbo swapped soon and see if that solves my smoking problem (see link http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=68995). I concur that it is the oil seal on the exhaust side of the turbo which is leaking causing oil to get into the muffler where the hot exhaust gas is burning it. Regards Ed

Great innovation there man ... I have an extra ZF reservoir as well which I would hook up like yours ... off topic now ... from the picture, heat from the cooling fan is blowing on the intercooler pipe. You should have this moved or insulated or both!

Hi Did you get this problem rectified? Regards Ed

Hi Did changing the turbo solve your problems? Regards Ed

Hello Did you get the problem rectified? Regards Ed

Al Did you get this problem rectified? Regards Ed

Looking forward to your findings!

Also I wanted to also let you guys know that if I let it idle for a long while ...say about 5mins or so and then drive off there would be clouds of blue smoke for a few seconds. Anyone experienced this?

Hi Jim With respect to the bores, they were machined and new liners pressed in and polished. Yes, the blowby is normal. It was much more before the rebuild ... enough to blow the oil cover off when loose! Honestly I don't think the turbo was primed. I checked the turbo shaft for play and there is just a tiny bit ... seems normal to me! I remove the top inter cooler hose and there is no oil in the intercooler or inlet manifold. My guess is the inner seal is leaking so oil is getting into the exhaust and burning. Ed

Hello Recently did an engine rebuild but engine still smoking. Please see links for video footage! My link My link New pistons and new liners used, injectors and pump serviced, turbo hoses replaced, new valve seals, new oil pump, new timing belt and pullies, new main and connecting rod bearings, new water pump, new power steering pump! Starts in one every time, good performance, no overheating! PROBLEMS - smoking as seen on the videos and consuming oil! There is no oil in turbo hoses and no blowby! After looking at archives, I reckon that the turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust manifold! Anyone want to second this or tell me how to determine this for sure? If this is the case, then what do you recommend? A) Change turbo seals B) Change turbo cartridge C) Change complete turbo assembly Many thanks Ed

Did you get it fixed?

Hi all I have a question about the zf4hp22 transmission on my 300tdi discovery. It works fine except that the torque converter seems to lock up too soon. I know it is supposed to lock at 50mph however mines seem to do so at 47mph. What can be responsible for this and what can I do to address it? Thanks in advance!