jackmac

Does anybody know what the height of a standard front shock turret is? I'm trying to work out if I already have +2 turrets fitted or not, as having changed my front shocks last night I thought they looked like they would bottom out before the chassis bumpstop was hit. If someone could measure one for me that would be a massive help!

I'm going to drain all the brake fluid and replace the 2 front flexi lines as I've got extended ones waiting to go on, will give it a flush through and make sure it's all clear. Replacing the master cylinder having spoken to a friend who had the same issue, and I've also found an old topic on here with the same symptoms that was apparently fixed by changing the master cylinder. Fingers crossed

Just checked this, no difference. The servo is definitely holding vacuum because I started her up and left running for about 15 seconds, stopped engine and removed the vacuum pipe from the servo. There was a very clear hiss and a pop as I removed the pipe

The pedal is actually hard quite early, I'm sure it's a vacuum issue because of the lack of change starting the engine having exhausted the vacuum. Not adjusted that though I wasn't aware it was an option, I'll have a look

It is working, I can feel some vacuum at idle - just it works a lot better above that. I'm not sure how strong it should feel? Using the very non scientific method of sticking my finger over the vacuum pipe

Hi all Having a problem with a lack of vacuum assistance on my 300tdi 90 (conversion, running td5 axles with vented front disks for what it's worth) . Having to absolutely stand on the brakes to slow down, it's not great. So far I've replaced the brake servo with a brand new one (not blue box, replaced o ring to master cylinder as well), tested that there is vacuum, tested the one way valve. Nothing has worked! Pumping the pedal until hard when the engine is off, then maintaining pressure as I start the engine and the brake pedal doesn't change at all. When I checked the vacuum I wasn't sure how strong it's meant to be, I found it much more noticeable with the engine a couple of hundred rpm above idle. Incidentally I also noticed when I changed the brake pads a couple of weeks ago that it took a herculean effort to push the pistons back in, which isn't a problem I've had before. The caliper pistons don't look that bad to me either. Not sure if that could be connected?

Hi all, In a bit of a conundrum. My 90 is used purely for challenging these days, and is now stored near my co-driver which is 180 miles away from where I live. Having informed my insurance company (Heritage) of this they've promptly cancelled my policy, because apparently I can't live/be that far away from where the vehicle is kept. The only way they will insure it is if I either store it at mine, or I transfer the V5 to his name and he takes out a policy on it which I don't really want to do seen as it's my car... Has anybody experienced this before, and found a willing insurer? I've basically been told by mine that they don't think anybody will cover it, and I haven't really got the time at the moment to be calling round dozens of companies trying to find cover! I'm not willing to leave it uninsured at all, so at the moment I'll be doing a long trip after work one evening next week to go and fetch it.

I got one for a tenner from one of the shows... £35 seems steep?

Mine is mounted on the bulkhead behind the drivers seat, inside so there's just enough room for it there.

I seem to remember HfH making up a particularly good parts cleaner mix that melted every pair of gloves he tried?

I think the reasoning behind people saying no to jate rings on the back is that on the rear the chassis is not reinforced where the jate ring bolts through, whereas on the front it is

Snorkel for the heater intake?

Incredibly incredibly tight on my QT one, it was a real hassle to get it on. Can't see it coming off again, ever.

Running 2 of these numax in mine to provide a permanent 12V circuit and selectable 24V circuit. https://www.tayna.co.uk/Numax-CXV31MF-P3694.html Been spot on for the year and a half I've had them

The one that i've used hasn't got any better at all with time, just have to power out

PM'ed!

There's no way I'm getting an adwest. It's a challenge truck, the only road miles are motorway to and from events until I can afford a tow truck. Thank you fridge, I did wonder if that might be a better option

Hi all, Can anyone recommend a good source of recon steering boxes? I can't afford new adwest etc and the truck isn't used enough to justify that, but my box is knackered and needs replacing. I see there's a few sellers on eBay doing them from £130 to £180ish, does anybody have a recommendation? Cheers

I would be pretty annoyed if I found a picture of my truck posted for this purpose.

Angle grinder, leaves a clean cut

Mine wouldn't budge via the starter motor either. On my 200TDi i tried putting it in gear, in difflock, handbrake on... it caused a massive amount of transmission windup then the handbrake couldn't hold out and longer and it started moving. Probably worth a go, but don't be surprised if it doesn't work. Best way in my opinion is to lock out the flywheel using either a timing kit or some home-made contraption (HT bolt through a wading plug would work), then get a breaker bar and some leverage. Did that on my 300TDi and it was a piece of cake with a breaker bar and some scaffolding tube

Mine were a shade under 34 inches new. I wouldn't be surprised if there is variation between batches though

If the crank seal isn't leaking and you have the later style pulley with integral side rails (not spot welded ones), then I wouldn't touch it.

Well, I've bought the same crimper as Mutley. I've tried it on a 35mm cable and a 50mm cable. Quite disappointed really. The 35mm didn't look a great crimp, and indeed I pulled it apart without too much effort. The 50mm was a joke, the crimper hardly marked the terminal at all - it's totally the wrong size. I need to do some 70mm cable next, I think that might be more successful given that when I compared the 50mm die to the 70mm die there was virtually no difference in size. To get a good crimp I've had to use the next size down very carefully, rotating round the crimp. However, after doing this it does actually produce a good crimp - I've cut one of them open to check and there was no air gaps etc. Not bad enough to send back as I can make it work, but I hoped for better.

There is a reason, I can't say I know it though. To answer your query, your props sound fine. Rear in phase, front out of phase