Tom1809

I will admit indy front is probably out of my league on this build unless I either pay someone to make it for me or I find someone who is willing to help and fabricate it in return for free beer and workshop space. Flipping the axles wouldn't be a issue. I'm going to put pen to paper and some sketches and see what you guys think.

The balance is something I'm trying to get my head around and work out along with suspension geometry. it would be very easy to build a cheque book racer and get a company to build it. I'd rather build something myself and learn as I go. Got a lot of years in me and I'm sure over the next years what I build now will be totally different. I know my way round a v8 and mega squirt thanks to nige and I'm considering a 4.6 instead of the ls3 coupled with a zf4 speed and lt230 as the drivetrain. Once I start the build ill make sure I Will keep a updated blog of it, Cheers Tom

Problem is everything is a compromise as a longer chassis and wheel base will decrease break over angle and cause more issues in the rocks. The plan is to try and create something around the 100" wheel base that's is a reliably and easy to work on. I have a ls3 and box I could throw into the truck but I don't think that is the right way to go and would rather build something to a budget and make a decent chassis and suspension geometry cause axles can be changed so can the drive train at a later date. Off to do some more research on the advise you have given me. Cheers Tom

certinaly correct plenty of thinking fluid today lol and there's going to be no grinders or chain blocks for a little while as I'm still planning the design of the truck that I would like to build to enter in the ultra 4 Europe series and some other events that are more aimed at fast sections with a bit of water and mud. Not really going to be a winch challenge truck as a 300tdi tray back with 3 winches lockers etc would be pretty capable in the right hands. But from what I've seen over the last year is those style trucks arnt competitive compared to the buggy that Levi Shirley raced but it's two different disciplines. The idea for a rear engined racer came from endless hours of searching the net looking at the trucks that race in America and Australia and the rear engine concept is rather common. Now going back to sorens surgestion of running the lt230 through the PTO hole would I still have to flip the diffs or would It be easier to modify the transfer case.

Now I hadn't though of that. I assume you would still get the correct direction of travel with it and could keep everything else in its place and wouldn't have to swap diffs around. Yes I understand for winch challenges it wouldn't be ideal but speed events it would be perfect set up.

After a few drinks today the brain isn't really up to speed but still throwing ideas around and has raised a question. Theoretically speaking if you was to rotate say a v8 with zf box and lt230 the other way round so it's now a rear mid engined set up. Apart from the the diffs and output shafts been in the wrong place would it be a case of just swapping the diffs around to keep forwards forward? Other option I guess would be to run a rear wheel drive flange on the box and divorced transfer case to keep the correct placement of propshafts to axles and use the transfer case to keep the correct direction. Or is my thinking above compeltly a waste of time and that direction of travel won't be affected? Cheers Tom

I brought a pair of Tdci doors from someone. I paid the money via bank transfer and the guy agreed to hold the doors till I could drive again. At the start of august I contacted him to arrange to collect and he text back saying he's away for two weeks so thought fair enough. After two weeks I hadn't heard anything so I've tried to get in touch via text and phoning but it goes straight to voicemail. I do have the guys address, name and bank details but it's a 2 1/2 hour drive for me. I'm wondering if anyone is in the besthorpe (Newark) area who may be willing to knock on his doer for me and find out what's going on or collect them. Any help or advice is much appreciated Cheers Tom

Well unfortunately I've missed out in barnabys axles but so be it, so back to now working on finding a set of axles again. But they are rocking horse poo over here so unless I go sprider trax I have no other option but to import from the states.

Not that I am aware off. I ran a disco v8 auto set up and retained the disco transfer box and used the the 200tdi defender speedo cable just fine.

Why do you want to use the the discovery axles when the td5 ones are going to be 24 spline compared to the discos 10? Motor and diesel do a kit for engine mounts and include a metal template. I can't remember what you need for a discovery 200tdi conversion because I haven't done it but a search on the forum will show that up. Transfer box is the same, some later disco boxes came with out diff lock. Yours should be ok being a 200tdi. The only difference is the gear ratios in high mode, low is the same on defender & disco.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/koh09/drivers/john_reynolds.php

Well the chassis will be ordered from Richards next week and depending on how busy alistar is then i will start. In the mean time I have the td5 90 to rebuild that's become rather urgent after a lovely transit driver done this to my partners mini

The reason of the atlas box in the end was the fact it can be manufactured to be a direct fit with out the need of adapters. The box can be configurable to the axles I plan to use to. The other nice feature is with the 4 speed you can actually have three different ratios so can be set up for rock, mud or what ever so a variety of terrains can be over come with out it been a compromise. You build sound interesting, will you be racing in the ultra 4 series then ?

Depends on the dealer, if it's a large company they will deal with say black horse finance or who ever. I looked into financing options for my customers on heating systems but you have to have a minimum of 250.000 turn over and there are conditions that go with it, some dealers might go to the hassle of it others don't. I tend to find the little one man band dealers and buy from them, I had a issue with a big dealers and my girlfriends mini, mismatched tyres,poor paint repair trying to back track on the agreement.

Where do I start. Most dealers have a bottom line figure they will go too and majority can be knocked down with a cash buy. When I've gone to buy vehicles and yes at 22 I've already had my fair share I always made sure I had cash, A substantial deposit or the full amount doesn't matter. Test drive the vehicle and make sure you go for a long enough drive to be able to get up to speed. Check things like the tracking, and weird noises. Go through all the gears. Including reverse ( I made that mistake). If there are plastic seat protectors on there remove them and check, make sure everything works. Keep a mental note of all the little issues. Ask to see the paperwork and check it properly. Biggest thing is don't take the dealers word that it's been hpi checked. It's cheaper enough to do one for yourself and you can print and take it with you to make sure it's the same. Say it's up for £10000. I would go in with offer of £7500. It give plenty of room to negotiate. When it comes to making a deal stick to your number and be prepared to walk away. There is also certain body language that works such as looking them in the eyes and extending your hand out to shake on the deal. Out of all the deals I've done buying vehicles I've never paid full asking price but the funny thing is, I never sold any of the 8 and the landy has been the longest I've owned.