TheKeymeister

I've got the later ones, but (unless I'm missing something) the bushes on them are too big to fit in the chassis mounts, and the bushes from the early arms are too small for the threaded bit of the later arms to pass through

I've got an off roader hybrid truck based on a 1974 Range Rover Classic... The front axle was totally knackered so we set about fitting a discovery one that was in stock & fully rebuilt and painted. Unfortunately we then realised the radius arms are different, with the Disco ones being the later, thicker ones, and the original ones being the thinner type. The original bushes were too small for the new arms, and the new bushes were too big for the chassis mounts. The 'bodge' to get it rolling across the yard again was to file/grind down the newer bushes to get them to fit (ish) into the chassis mount, but I need a more permanent solution. Any thoughts on this? There must be a better way surely! Can I use the early radius arms in the newer axle and space them out with something, if so what should I be using to space it. This all happened many months ago now and caused it to get left in a corner, and I've had a sudden burst of enthusiasm again which is rare.

Forgot to add, I did a bit of investigation around the function of the air temperature sensors... With the MAF unplugged and the IAT sensor at the front plugged in, I got the following codes: P0100 Air flow meter short circuit to ground or open load P0110 Air Temperature Sensor Signal out of range With the MAF plugged in and the IAT sensor at the front unplugged, I got this code: P1110 No text allocated for this code With the MAF and IAT sensor at the front both plugged in, I got no codes. The Hawkeye I was using does not display any live data from the front IAT sensor so unless the Hawkeye isn't clever enough to see what it does, who knows what its function is!

When I got the Freelander about 2 months back I did a full service replacing all fluids but managed to round off the gearbox filler plug. The plan was to try and free it off with a hammer and chisel when I got round to it. Since then I have noticed the reverse light switch has failed, can I fill the gearbox via the reverse switch hole instead of trying to remove the rounded filler plug? I have got an electric oil pump to get it in, and I can measure the required amount of oil using the measuring jug from the kitchen

Thought I'd better report back with the results... I bought the Pierburg version, fitted it, and it was awful. Flat up to 2500rpm and dangerous pulling away. I read another post that said his did the same and sorted itself out after 100 miles, but that didn't happen, tried disconnecting battery to 'reset' ECU values, but no, still exactly the same. Fortunately I was able to return the unit for a refund. The correct Bosch sensor arrived this morning so I will be fitting it tomorrow morning

Thanks for the replies, A bit more research reveals Pierburg now manufacture a drop in replacement that doesn't require any nonsense to fix it, part number is 7.22684.11.0, and their site confirms it is compatible with a Freelander Td4 and lists MHK101130 as an equivalent part number which all stacks up, see here - https://onlineshop.ms-motorservice.com/msi/MSICD?lang=E&page=showLUVGDetail&ksnr=7.22684.11.0&stacklevel=0&hisdir=fwd The dilemma is, the Bosch one is only about a tenner more expensive, so I suppose it depends whether the Pierburg is indeed more robust or it's a bit of a selling tactic by the bloke who sells the magic boxes. A quick Google does turn up many threads from various different forums (not LR ones) bigging up the Pierburg, maybe I will take a punt. After changing the carb on my 2.8 Cortina from a Pierburg to a Weber, it seems wrong to 'upgrade' to a Pierburg item! I haven't got round to plugging the current failed MAF back in to see if it starts reading inlet air temp again, but I will find this out and report back either way, it does seem a bit coincidental though...

From the info gleaned from a Hawkeye, it appears the MAF sensor on my 2005 Td4 Freelander 1 is about knackered. No fault codes are present, but the live data shows a reading of 468mg/stroke at tickover, increasing to a whopping 505mg/stroke at 2500rpm. I've unplugged the MAF and checked again, which seems to make it start at a base value of 500mg/stroke increasing with rpm and it now runs much better than it did before. I have noticed whilst the MAF is unplugged, I have three fault codes:- P0100 Air flow meter short circuit to ground or open load (as expected) P0110 Air Temperature Sensor Signal out of range P1110 No text allocated for this code Live data also shows the inlet air temperature as a constant -40*C. I'm not sure if this has happened because the MAF is unplugged, as I also had a boost pipe split right next to the IAT sensor yesterday which covered everything in oil and the electrical connection may be suspect. I will tomorrow try and reconnect the MAF and see if the temperature sensor codes go away. I have tried to check RAVE to see how the IAT is wired up to the ECU but to no avail, I have an early version of RAVE which is from before the separate IAT sensor came in, and the only later version I can find of RAVE is for NAS vehicles and only shows the KV6 engine. I would be interested to know what this sensor does if it does not replace the sensor in the MAF per the previous vehicles. I've done a bit of reading and it seems a Pierburg MAF is a better replacement than the original Bosch but it does not include an IAT sensor so needs an additional box of tricks (Synergy tuning box) to make it work. I am wondering if this still applies to my vehicle as it has a separate IAT sensor in the intercooler pipe at the front of the engine. I could do without the additional expense of a Synergy box at the moment if possible, but at the same time I don't want to spend pennies on a cheap eBay sensor that will last a month, so ideally I would like to fit the Pierburg if it is indeed a more robust solution. Many thanks in advance for any advice

The front mounting is straight forward - it bolts straight to the bulkhead bolt. There's a bracket mid way that bolts to the steel plate which I then had to adapt to fit round a bracket on the Landy, and it was the same further back. I believe it's exacerbated because mine is a 110 CSW. I'll try and get some pictures to show what I mean, however it will show my shocking bodgework to get the bloody things on

Fortunately mine look nothing like that on the inside - there's no trim at all in the back section as its ex AA and there was originally a load of racking there. It's not my only motor so I'll go for stripping it down and see what they're like when off. Not sure who I can get to weld the carp section up as my mate who used to do all that sort of stuff for me isn't around any more Fingers crossed they are salvageable at all first. Struggling to think what else I could throw in other than the cappings if I'm honest, already got a galv front winch bumper and galv roof rack....hmm.... Anyway I'll try and get it stripped down when the weather is a bit better and see how we go from there

I honestly expected them to be normal steel, but considering all 5 doors have rotted out and the worst the cappings have got is that small patch, they either used very good paint or did something else! It did go through special vehicles and there are a few obscurities, but who knows. Any thoughts on how to repair them?

Having just bought a cartridge for my 200tdi (which turned out to be the wrong one, got a 300 one!) I can confirm all I got was a cartridge - no new gaskets, o-rings, retaining brackets, nuts, bolts, studs, or anything else you'd need when changing the cartridge....

I bought a set for my 110 csw from Mill Services, with the monster bar fitted to act as a step, quality is spot on but fitting was an absolute nightmare, they came with 4 pieces of steel plate and I spent ages cutting and messing about until they fitted properly. I know nothing should be expected to be 100% bolt-on on a Land Rover but I expected slightly better for the money. Here's a picture showing them fitted....

Looking at changing the side panels on my 110 sw to van sides (it has some nasty non standard leaky windows at the minute) and feel I should pay some attention to the cappings at the same time. There's a slightly rusty patch on one of them on the outside, and an even smaller one on the opposite side on the inside. Both look to be where something has hit it. There is no corrosion anywhere else on the cappings, and this is a 1994 model land rover, so I'm assuming/hoping they are galv. There is also some bubbling on the tub around the cappings. As they are in generally good condition other than the small patch, and considering the cost/scarcity of replacements, what is my best way forward to bring them up to snuff and preserve them? My welding skills are terrible but happy to outsource this if required. I've got some cold galv paint for what its worth and I'm going to be painting the whole landy anyway considering I'm changing the sides, all 5 doors and the bonnet! See attached photos Many thanks

Andys Landys on Binley industrial estate....seem to know their stuff Heard mixed reviews about Douglass Motors at Wolston Town and Country Land Rover in Cubbington, only ever used them for parts but they might do servicing too The garage at Marton always seem to have a couple of Landys knocking about as well Hope this helps....

I had a fault in my loom where the brake light feed was shorting to something permanently live and flickering on every so often, I found that when the rear crossmember had been replaced by a previous owner, they'd chopped it and re joined using red straight through crimps, which had let water in, corroded and shorted together.... I pulled the whole thing out from the bulkhead end, wrapped it in split plastic conduit, strapped it to the chassis out of the way of everything, this gave me enough length to cut back the corroded part and re join properly and heat shrink each core afterwards. It's been like that at least 18 months now and there's no problems at all - just a thought depending on where yours has gone faulty. Next step is to remove all the bullet connectors in each corner and either make them solid or replace with Econoseal as I'm going to the later style indicator/rear lamps anyway.

Don't happen to have any pics of it fitted do you? I'm happy enough to cut the lips off the rad frame, got a spare kicking about if it all goes wrong, but does anything else need a trim?

My intercooler is on its last legs, if you poke it too hard it crumbles in all the wrong places, as my turbo is in need of attention due to passing too much oil I thought it would be a good time to replace the intercooler.....I'd love to go VNT and Allisport gigantic intercooler but can't justify the price unfortunately! A quick check on eBay throws up a 115mm thick Chinese intercooler upgrade for not much money, I'm not expecting amazing quality but for £80 it seems worth a punt. It does look like it would be interesting to fit due to its width though. I see allisport do one for over 5 times the price that is a similar design, I imagine its what the Chinese based theirs on. Has anyone had a go with either one of these and was it much of a pain to fit?

Recently bought an ex electricity board winch kit, with a Ramsey electric winch and a fairly hefty galvanised bumper. I've also ordered some rock/tree sliders from Mill Services that will come galvanised. The rest of the Landy is yellow (ex AA) and black, so a big lump of galv on the front and sides will look fairly out of place and I would like to have them in black. My first thought was to get it all powdercoated but I'm having second thoughts about this due to the difficulty in touching it up after off road damage. I originally decided I didn't want to paint it based on my experience of a single coat of Hammerite (no primer) on the original galv bumper that flaked off as soon as it touched anything. I'm starting to think painting the whole lot properly might be the best idea, but not sure on what sort of paint would be best. I have a couple of tins of micaceous iron oxide paint (undercoat and top coat) but in grey, as far as I know the undercoat is alright for direct onto galv but what top coat should I use with it? Micaceous doesn't give the best sort of finish... Also I'm having trouble removing some of the 9 years of carp that are well stuck on behind the bumper, I've lightly attacked it with a wire brush attachment on a drill, given it a good go with the jet wash and a good dose of jizer to no avail. I didn't want to give it too much of an attack with the wire brush, is there anything else anyone can recommend to get the carp off? Many thanks in advance!

My old bed was full of those, the thin wooden slats slotted into the wide opening, and then the metal frame had two holes that the pins located in.....so I'm going to say it's not a Land Rover part!

I've had a further look at one at work today and it mentions Rotec Hydraulics so I might try contacting them as well. None of the conversion on the work ones is done by special vehicles any more I am told. I fear these sort of bumpers will be fiercely expensive but I will wait and see what PWS and Rotec come back with, if anything

A few months ago I picked up a Superwinch H14W PTO driven winch for a reasonable price, unfortunately at the time I didn't look at bumpers, as that was the only thing missing from the setup... As of yet I haven't found a winch bumper available that says it will accept a H14W. I found a picture online of a H14 next to a Husky and they look very similar in size, and there seems to be many bumpers that are suitable for a Husky - does anyone know if a Husky bumper is suitable for a H14, like this one? The H14W is standard fit to the Landys at work nowadays, and they have a rather nice bumper that has a hinged lid, but I've never seen it offered for sale anywhere, does anyone have any ideas on what it is and where I might get one? Many thanks in advance!

I'm just in the process of looking into new seats, the big factor seems to be the seat base thickness at the front, if they are too thick you won't get your legs between the seat and the steering wheel. This problem can however be sorted out by altering the seat box so it is flat and lower. Fitting wise depends on the individual seats but some modification is usually required. As for getting to the battery you either need to relocate it or add an isolator switch and/or andersen connector to allow jump starting.

If it helps at all, I've just changed my heater matrix and one of the cable clips lost its ability to grip the cable, the part number is 13H7343L

I had a flickering brake light that decided to come on randomly, including when parked up...turned out to be a wiring bodge done when someone changed the rear crossmember, the brake light wire was shorting to the permanent live feed. I think the reverse light circuit had gone open circuit as well. There were 15 or so red crimps all wrapped up in electrical tape that had gone green and crusty, so it might be worth looking for something similar...

In true Landy spirit, I got bored and had a look through my spares department to see if anything else would do. I've got a transfer box out of a 300tdi Disco, and it still had the sensor on it, so thought I'd give that a go. I've already read that it gives double the pulses per mile so would result in it reading double, but thought that would be better than the nothing at all that I currently have. It certainly looks like I wouldn't have the same trouble again - the square drive piece in the Disco one is metal rather than plastic, and when bolted up it was all square, unlike when the Defender item was fitted. Unfortunately though, it didn't read anything at all with the Disco sensor. The pins are correct as far as i can tell, so I don't think it's wired wrong, and it did work when it was still in my old Disco. Just out of interest, does anyone know if the Disco sensor does result in a double reading, or results in no movement of the needle like I'm having? I will try and get a replacement Defender sensor tomorrow, I'm just impatient and curious