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Turbocharger last won the day on July 26

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About Turbocharger

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    Intermolecular cohesive bonding, literature of the post-Marxist capitalist society, modal transport shift with increasing pressure on consumer oil prices, mud, beer and boobs.

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  1. A little more time spent building a programme structure (and chasing issues with code), I'll use the electric window switches either side of the 2002 dashboard as control inputs in the cab. They'll be nominally MENU/SELECT on one side and UP/DOWN on the other. I've written a really simple routine which inflates or deflates each solenoid, and shows ^ or v on the display in the relevant corner. I can also equalise an axle left to right or one side front to back (open the axle solenoids, don't inflate or deflate), and here it puts = in the relevant corner of the display. It's useful to
  2. Update: I've spent an embarrassing number of hours with a soldering iron making a hash of some Veroboard and I have a working interface for the solenoid driver. I'm using an Arduino Mega Pro (54 digital IOs and 16 analogue IOs - for £12!), and the electric spaghetti is to make the 5v signals into 12v signals. After a smoky discovery that the heat sink tabs are electrically connected to the transistor outputs AND earth (oops) I need to rethink that area (see the paper scraps in the video), and sort out a couple of dead channels, but the thinking is fundamentally sound - it clicks! (J
  3. Waiting for some electronic bits to turn up now, so I whizzed up a couple of lower spring plates on the mill. These are temporary (probably) but will support the lower spring seat and could be faced at an angle to help offset the effect as the axle rotates on full droop, which is tending to 'peel' the lower spring seat out of the bag. The mill is new to me but pretty pleased with how this turned out, the bolt pockets neatly the right width to make the bolt head captive too. (The speed holes around the edge are definitely to reduce unsprung weight and to look cool, nothing at all to do wit
  4. More electric spaghetti but it looks more complicated than it is - the Arduino voltage regulator and the solenoid driver are now on the Veroboard and I'm using a real height sensor. The circuit just needs duplicating for the other solenoids and probably another for the compressor. (I could even drive the compressor at variable speed depending on the pressure in the tank, but that's probably one for v5.0!) Much more boring work to do, little tasks that don't look like big progress - then suddenly with one more job it'll look like progress again.
  5. One of those productive days with something to actually show for it. I've got a bench version of the air system, an air tank and a battery to keep it all alive. The compressor will feed the system (slowly) and has an automatic unloader valve, but I think more wires would be required to make it cut off at max pressure. With care, that's not an issue here, and I've got a T piece to top it up with the garage compressor. I've got Inflate, Deflate and four wheel solenoids. The RR valve block and driver makes it very easy, just 12v to the right places and the car goes up and do
  6. That one is just a piece of box with three overlapping holes cut into it, but I'm not happy so v2.0 is on the milling machine for a tidier result. I think that's my question - it's no 'safer' if they're bolted to the chassis or not when it comes too far apart, so therefore it doesn't matter? A check strap (or shorter shock) is a backup option, my shocks are fairly long to maximise the travel. Shocks are slightly outboard of the bags so straight 'heave' (rather than articulation) should be the worst case.
  7. A month on, and a little progress between other distractions. I have a little MOSFET circuit to take 5v from the Arduino to 12v to drive the solenoids at the high-side. It's specced to drive the compressor too, if it's needed further down the line, but for now the unassuming 'click' with the red LED shows that I can drive a big voltage with a small voltage - I'm learning something, at least. The potentiometer mimics a height sensor, the green LED is for 'inflate' and red is for 'deflate', which is the solenoid that's clicking. https://youtu.be/0a5vEektG5k I've also got a fixing
  8. Thanks - nothing more complex than holes in the chassis and a tab on the trailing arm then. I can do that 👍
  9. Perfect, thank you, that's what I'd expected. Don't suppose you've got any rear height sensor pics too? I can be creative, there's more space back there, just handy to see how the factory boys did it.
  10. Thanks Paul - you have a PM. Wes - I hadn't appreciated it would be so easy - from the hit&drop info I'd planned to code up the PWM bit, but it does look like I can just power up the solenoid driver on pins 10/11/12/13, then put 12v to pins 1-6 for whichever solenoids I want to play with. Thank you - that'll make the coding easier! Still needs MOSFETs to interface logic to 12v but less need for the inductive flyback protection etc. Does anyone have an in-situ photo of how the height sensors were mounted on a RR Classic? I think that's what the little 'ear' on top of the radius ar
  11. For general vehicle design info (generally a 'how it's done' for modern and electronic systems rather than a first principles dynamics approach) I'd recommend the Bosch Automotive Handbook: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Automotive-Handbook-Robert-Bosch-GmbH/dp/1119530814/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=bosch+automotive&qid=1592901267&sr=8-1 10th edition is the latest, it's a bit spendy - you might find an earlier edition at a better price if you don't need the latest on aftertreatment OBD control etc.
  12. That'd be handy. I've seen the hit&drop graph on the P38 sites but some pinout info would be gold. I'll still use some MOSFETs to drive it but it makes the coding easier. Yes, ish. The closed length is still too great but it's got the lower coil seat upside down as a temporary carrier, so there's about 40mm to be had there. I can happily spin off the mounting lug inside the lower seat in a lathe, and/or shape the spring chair on the axle if necessary. I'm aiming for minimum mods though, and not just because I'm lazy...
  13. Only a little progress recently, kids + nice weather, and some family things over the last few weeks. Thanks for the plug info, much appreciated 👍 Any idea on these plugs, the electric window switches in a 2002 Defender dash (and a Disco 1 centre console, and late RR Classic - and let's be honest, probably a Metro or Marina too). They look like an elegant way to get inputs that will be glove-appropriate. Today I've managed an hour for some sundry bits, including the bashing and filing to make the Paddock dual spring mounts fit a standard car. Good news: it looks like it'll pack
  14. Took a couple of weeks away with various lockdown complications... I decided I might do more if it's indoors (and that's half the point of the project anyway). It does *technically* fit indoors on the bump stops, but I snagged a sharp edge on the highest point of the tilt 🙄 Nothing more on the air yet...
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