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About Turbocharger

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    Intermolecular cohesive bonding, literature of the post-Marxist capitalist society, modal transport shift with increasing pressure on consumer oil prices, mud, beer and boobs.

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  1. Thanks - nothing more complex than holes in the chassis and a tab on the trailing arm then. I can do that 👍
  2. Perfect, thank you, that's what I'd expected. Don't suppose you've got any rear height sensor pics too? I can be creative, there's more space back there, just handy to see how the factory boys did it.
  3. Thanks Paul - you have a PM. Wes - I hadn't appreciated it would be so easy - from the hit&drop info I'd planned to code up the PWM bit, but it does look like I can just power up the solenoid driver on pins 10/11/12/13, then put 12v to pins 1-6 for whichever solenoids I want to play with. Thank you - that'll make the coding easier! Still needs MOSFETs to interface logic to 12v but less need for the inductive flyback protection etc. Does anyone have an in-situ photo of how the height sensors were mounted on a RR Classic? I think that's what the little 'ear' on top of the radius arm is for just behind the axle (but I'll bet it's a person I&#39;m not that keen on to drill!)
  4. For general vehicle design info (generally a 'how it's done' for modern and electronic systems rather than a first principles dynamics approach) I'd recommend the Bosch Automotive Handbook: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Automotive-Handbook-Robert-Bosch-GmbH/dp/1119530814/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=bosch+automotive&qid=1592901267&sr=8-1 10th edition is the latest, it's a bit spendy - you might find an earlier edition at a better price if you don't need the latest on aftertreatment OBD control etc.
  5. That'd be handy. I've seen the hit&drop graph on the P38 sites but some pinout info would be gold. I'll still use some MOSFETs to drive it but it makes the coding easier. Yes, ish. The closed length is still too great but it's got the lower coil seat upside down as a temporary carrier, so there's about 40mm to be had there. I can happily spin off the mounting lug inside the lower seat in a lathe, and/or shape the spring chair on the axle if necessary. I'm aiming for minimum mods though, and not just because I'm lazy...
  6. Only a little progress recently, kids + nice weather, and some family things over the last few weeks. Thanks for the plug info, much appreciated 👍 Any idea on these plugs, the electric window switches in a 2002 Defender dash (and a Disco 1 centre console, and late RR Classic - and let's be honest, probably a Metro or Marina too). They look like an elegant way to get inputs that will be glove-appropriate. Today I've managed an hour for some sundry bits, including the bashing and filing to make the Paddock dual spring mounts fit a standard car. Good news: it looks like it'll package nicely. If anybody knows what inputs and outputs it uses, I'm all ears! No point reinventing the wheel/transistor, though starting from scratch gives me full control of what's going on.
  7. Took a couple of weeks away with various lockdown complications... I decided I might do more if it's indoors (and that's half the point of the project anyway). It does *technically* fit indoors on the bump stops, but I snagged a sharp edge on the highest point of the tilt 🙄 Nothing more on the air yet...
  8. Evidently they're not fussed about IVA,v they just want to see some docs or calcs to show it won't all end up in the road when you brake really hard. I'd be inclined to write up your design with any strength/materials calcs, aiming to show that the weakest point is "as good as" what went before. Comparative numbers vs the LR original design should be enough. Consider simple load cases (lateral, longitudinal, vertical), throw in a few section diagrams and work it up to about ten pages, put anything else as appendices.
  9. How "budget"? I've a push-along version with one wheel but it's manually powered and somewhat smaller... 😆
  10. Exactly as you've surmised - it's mail-order fabrication. Email a CAD file, receive your bits. The cycle time will certainly be faster with your own printer (esp depending on where they're printed and posted from!), but there will be more messing about time, certainly to start with. https://www.3dhubs.com/
  11. Some more playing with Disco 2 rear airbags on the front axle yesterday evening - whichever bags I go for, I'm inclined to cant the lower pedestal back a little so that the angle at full droop is less extreme. The minimum length of the springs is going to be very important - I can see why Robert had those extended bump stops - there's 160mm package volume for the spring at full compression to the bump stop, and I'm keen to design it as if the 50mm bump stop was removed, or at least substantially compressed. (Spring cup is upside down to take the air spring piston, as a static mockup) The Disco 2 airbag looks like it'll compress to 140mm, but the bag is overhanging the lower piston - that's not actually an issue once there's any pressure in it because it rolls back like ... (try to avoid a foreskin comparison here). I made a video of it inflating at moderate height - and with the rear pedestal settling and scaring the bejeezus out of me. The Disco2 bag is crimped top and bottom so it appears to have a very long length when it's off the car, but the effective travel when it's inflated isn't much more than the P38 bags.
  12. They'll have done their research, and I'm sure it'll sell. I quite like it 😳 Let me ask - if it wasn't branded 'Defender', would that be ok?
  13. It appears to have a spark plug loose on the intake side of the engine so that's five, just one more to account for...
  14. Looks like we're working on similar projects! Keep in touch, keen to learn by your mistakes rather than my own 😉 Yes, it's possible to make this very complex indeed. Pressure sensors at each corner, 9 axis in the car, maybe a vertical accelerometer on each unsprung mass, add some extra chambers onto each corner which you could activate with their own solenoids... The microcontroller can probably deploy any logic you like - but what's actually desirable? There's a good chance active interventions could be the wrong thing, or the right thing at the wrong time - we know adjustable (passive) shocks etc just gives many more degrees of freedom for any amateur to make it worse. I'm keen to make it self-level, run on the road at a slightly lower height and be liftable for offroad/lowered for the garage. Then to look at how to make it cross axle better with a sensible level of complexity. If I wanted skyhook ride I'd just buy something with a significantly lower unsprung mass. This is never going to be a limousine.
  15. I'd suggest subbing out the fiddling if you're looking for products and not a project. A friend runs a 'farm' of printers and he turns CAD files into objects for other people, then posts them out. His focus is on the production and dimensional accuracy, getting the layers to bind etc, and the risk is his when it chews a reel of filament or spoils a print at 95% progress. His work comes through 3D Hubs, so you can just chuck your CAD file at them. You'll need a fairly large printer for exhaust bits I'd expect, so probably cheaper to rent than buy. Need to be honest with yourself - are you looking for a hobby (the process of printing it) or the output (the finished bits)?
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