Turbocharger

tTo change the steady-state boost you need to change the spring inside the diaphragm, adjusting the preload or fiddling with the linkage just changes the point it starts/stops moving or the response rate.

I've got four light mounts above the windscreen, just flat plates on the lower rear face of the horizontal tube, plus another in the middle on top for a CB ariel. In the back I've got two threaded studs to take a Hi-lift, and four small U-bolts where the cage meets the floor - very useful for tying things down in the back etc. If you put a winch hook on the cage, make it nice and weak so it lets go (benignly) before it distorts the cage or wrinkles your wings / bonnet.

Probably a good moment for an update on this thread since it's been bumped. I've got a hole in the diaphragm at the moment so I've set it to run fixed geometry (not very exciting performance and a bit 'surgy' on full chat) while I work out where to get a new membrane for a Td5 turbo wastegate actuator. Mr Wingnut - I'm not sure I understand your question - do you mean 'overpressure' to be the peak in any transients before it settles to steady state? These are a limitation of the mechanical route to control boost, there's lots of clever maths or options with dampers etc to make it behave exactly as you want - or you just have to be careful with your right foot. To get a different steady-state boost pressure you need to change the spring that the diaphragm works against (an extra external spring is easiest) or alter the length or lever ratio of the linkage.

I've had good success with sticky-back velcro before - hook side on the dash and furry side on the phone. The industrial stuff was sticky enough to crack the motherboard on a laptop as I peeled it off!

Should have no problem. See if a parts supplier will do you a kit of bits on a sale or return basis, grease and service everything before you leave, and learn how to make simple repairs. If you're carrying wheel bearing bits then you can always get towed somewhere, might be worth a second spare wheel though?

Step 1 - stop the the heat getting in, wrapping and coating etc, as above. step 2 - lots of airflow through the bay to shift the heat out. If you don't want blingy vents I'd look at lifting the bonnet slightly, esp at the rear. You'll end up with a large narrow vent with a very large area, but a near-standard look. Otherwise, look at moving air downwards or into the wheel arches?

It's not enough to torque the nuts up to spec. If you're having trouble with them coming loose I'd pay particular attention to making sure the wheel and hub are meticulously clean before you fit the wheel. If not, the nuts will come to torque statically but the wheel will 'settle' and the nuts will work loose. The pointers are very worthwhile to save you lugging the torque wrench all day. For a more subtle version, torque them up and then put a Tippex line on the outer face of each nut. Glance down in the morning / outside the supermarket / returning stealthily from your mistress, job done.

Imagine two 4x4ft sheets of plywood, nailed by their lower edges to the A-frame, onto the body at the rear edge and nearly touching each other at the front edge. I think you could clout the LR if you wind the trailer onto full lock and then lift the trailer wheel that's furthest from the LR (or drive steeply up a hill) but you could be cautious with the height - or how you drive!

He only has to sell it once though...

Keef - what's the mystica black tube with a big wire into each end? Is it a voltage controller? A split charge? Water-cooled flux capacitor? Or just some oversize conduit?

If you box in the front of the trailer vertically and parallel to the A-frame rails so the body comes to a point at the front, the stones will bounce outwards rather than forwards (sorry cyclists) and you've gained some more storage space. It may or may not be more aerodynamic but that's down to turbulent flow between two essentially square boxes...

Sounds like a bearing to me - have you cracked off the injector lines one by one to isolate the problem? Either way I've got four 300Tdi injectors on the shelf which can go into a Jiffy bag tomorrow if you tell me where to send them (and promise to return them one day!)

Nige - I'll have a fleece in "M" please - that's "M" for mmmmmnotafatbarsteward

I'd like to see a softtop which tapers in and down at the back, like a BMW X6-kinda shape. You rarely use the top rear corners and it'd be interesting to see if there's any fuel saving at speed.

Dave, Here's mine (we know they're all different): Vertically, 730mm max height, 580mm to the horizontal rail(start of the bend) Horizontally, 1450 and 1480mm. What'cha making?

Les - no idea about the backplate gasket, shouldn't make a lot of odds, if that joint's holding back a lot of oil you've got bigger problems.... On t/c access, I looked at doing it through the starter hole and decided it looked like an awful lot of effort, messing and potential for dropping spanners etc. I saw that one of the USA workshops (Rovers North?) had cut a square out of the bottom of the torque conv housing, so I got Mr Grinder out and made my own version. Slightly worried about weakening the bellhousing but it's passed the acid test - it's been fine. You're welcome to come for a nosey if it'll help, you know where I am...

Your exhaust temps will be higher obviously, but I think the IC is still important. Even full of mud it performs an important function through its mass; with a decent lump of aluminium en-route from the turbo to the engine which will cool the air as it heats the IC matrix. If its full of mud then it won't cool itself as readily to receive the next slug of air and it'll heatsoak faster, but I suspect the effect is still important. Look at it another way: you've already bought it and it's definitely not making things worse....

Voltages look ok, I suspect an issue with the heavy current cables as suggested above. If your inverter etc is connected directed to the second battery, then the immobiliser can't be in the mix. I'd suggest internal deterioration of one of the cables, probably the earth if it affects both batteries - maybe water creeping up inside the insulation? You could check it by running a jump lead from the neg terminal of the starter battery to the BODY (not the positive stud!!) of the starter motor. If the jump lead is suddenly effective then the OE leads aren't.

I suggest a cheap Peltier-effect fridge set to "heat". Not particularly efficient but you could just run it off a scrap car battery in the boot of your road car, which you charge up when you're at home. In fact, I've got just such a fridge which you're welcome to have on long term loan to see if it's going to work before you splash out yourself? Drop me a PM. A cleverer plan would be to use the stored heat in the coolant of one car or the other, to flash heat the salty solution. The salts are likely to have a much higher specific heat capacity than water so the calcs above are probably an underestimate.

A mate of mine spent £2k on a nice lathe and we went up to Birkenhead to collect it. I can dig out the dealer's number if you'd like, he had some smaller machines too and he certainly knew his onions when it came to lathes.

The tech is very exciting but they need to be in conjunction with behaviour change, since good behaviour can outshine the very best tech, and there's a big carbon / energy / effort overhead if we're just increasing the complexity of the system to maintain the status quo. I bought a small light conventional car and I see 40mpg with good performance. It irks me when I'm smugly driving at a sensible speed and a Prius, Civic hybrid or a Lexus "xxx-h" hoons past at 80mph, the driver totally missing the point.

I've got three 285/75R16 Grizzly Claws if you're interested, but you'd need new wheels (or you'd need the wheels they on...) - drop me a PM, they're just in my shed at the moment...

I bet that went well, must be more than 1000bhp!

I said it wasn't strictly a conversion, although this one was because it had been a diesel...

Just one, it's a Jimny...