discojmz

looking through the other little photos my mate snapped at the time, I think perhaps im being daft or just a little naiive. this was the OSR wheel at the same time. considering ive got HD rear springs fitted to the truck, I suppose im overlooking just how much of the vehicle's weight has been shifted to this corner and thus lifted from its axle partner? I suppose ive not really spent any time considering the whys and wherefores

it's certainly possible. i could see black marks on the floor where the front wheel had been, but nothing at the back. looking at it, that rear n/s tyre does appear to have some evidence of spinning at the top of it, but if that is the case, im fairly disappointed with the ease with which it has broken traction on not one but two wheels

hi guys. Ive searched and read through a few of the past 'difflock problem' type topics but not yet found one that covers the same problem as I think im having. with my discovery in position as per the photo here, the drivers side front wheel was scrubbing on the floor and forward motion ceased. with the weight off that tyre in comparison to the others, this would be expected with the difflock out, but the difflock light was on, lever over to the left. does the light mean the difflock is definitely engaged, or just that certain parts of the linkage are in the correct position? by my reckoning if the difflock were working properly, one wheel at the front with low traction should not have been an issue because both rear wheels should have been driving forward as normal? any insight appreciated jim

I believe the 1998 refers to the vehicle not to the construction of the towing appliance. Im gleaning that from the line that vehicles constructed from 1998 require type approved tow bars so either way in this instance it has to be type approved.

yeah im planning on being there!

drove works vehicle on bfg at's all day then jumped in my discovery on cooper discoverer stt's. mine felt more planted, but again, siped tread on the cooper stt's.

thanks guys. should have said before, it's a 200tdi. I'm still considering both options. Its quite a cost difference, but I'll do me sums once i get paid and see how much I can afford the upcoming MOT to cost me. thankfully it doesnt need any welding still, but she's starting to feel a bit loose around the steering too. always the same story!

thanks for the input so far guys keep it coming. I need more to make an informed decision, ive got one each way so far

Ive got fed up of the diminishing performance of the brakes on my D1 and want to sort it out. essentially, I dont know if theres anything wrong with the master cylinder, but Im going to get one of the repair kits anyway. I do think there might be but Im also aware that theres some issue with seized or semi seized pistons. ive one caliper that seems to eat pads and one that does the opposite. Time to get this sorted. although braking performance isnt diminished as an end result, Im having to use more pedal than I feel I ought. few questions about the bits im swapping. flexis will be changed for braided, but do I fit stock length ones, +2s, or can I even fit +4s to a standard height vehicle or will they get in the way of moving parts? calipers... do I swap the calipers as a whole (pricey) or do I do the seals, pistons, bleed nipples etc and just clean the bodies? parts for all 4 should be about 80 pounds max, calipers would come to over 200. If i were to swap for new calipers, do I stick with solid front discs? should they be adequate? do i go for vented calipers and discs? certainly not interested in drilled or grooved for this vehicle. Is there anything ive overlooked or forgotten? thanks guys. any opinions appreciated. those with experience attached would be fantastic! thanks Jim

If it's anything like the tdi, theres a tool that can be aquired for many pounds that holds the crank pulley while you undo the bolt but im sure a grown-up will be along to confirm/disprove this theory

cheers ralph! will give that a go after lunch

it's where mine's going

im assuming it's a typo on their part and it would be a 56.5mm hole to correspond with its 56mm size. hopefully someone can confirm

just as an extension to this if i may, I tightened up the handbrake on my 94 disco 200tdi and although now the handbrake works fine, the handbrake lever doesnt always want to sit right down when off as there seems to be 'too much' cable. Has it stretched? Is there some method of taking this slack up or is it new cable time? thanks

ive got town and country ones in mine very heavy duty and durable, exceptional fit, waterproof and very easy to clean. couldnt be happier with them!

oh yeah i realise the two are different arrangements, one high turbo one low turbo, I just theorised (perhaps wrongly) that the holes in both manifolds being in similar places, probably had similar threads and thus could be blocked with similar components.

microcat for me, shows a 'drain plug' there ETC5577. no other description beyond drain plug that's on a discovery though, where theres also a similar hole on some manifolds, and some dont have it. might be the part you want to block the hole

its not just that, there's a legal minimum spacing between pedals. anything less and it could land you in bother could always weld some metal bicycle pedals on

I would have thought that the only way to not have green cables is to not use such good copper or seal the air and moisture out of the cables somehow. not easy i wouldnt have thought

but youve still not tried a different steering damper?

thankfully never had to have it used! I think this would be a prudent point in the proceedings to add a little note about calling for the emergency services on a mobile phone USE 112 112 uses every signal mast around you regardless of network operator. It provides the operator with your identity and a triangulated position of reasonably high accuracy! any information you can then relay such as meeting points, access, vehicles on site, making the site obvious etc, is then extra helpful information to them, they already have enough to mobilise straight away. 112 saves time and saves lives

had ICE numbers on my phones for quite a while, when working in woodland etc itd be daft not to

how is it that they even do this when plus 2 shocks at least in the pro comp range cost no more than std length?!

sure it's the sump? sump on my td was the same but it wasnt the sump, was a culmination of weak rocker gasket, rear breather pipe perforated, rear crank seal and T seals

just to throw another reasonable sized spanner in the works. Id also read on here from when someone had spoken to the powers that be, that you can change the rear cross member to a defender one without incurring too much grief as long as the length of the chassis remained exactly the same overall. so you would have to have a discovery sixed overhang behind the back wheels rather than the more bobbed finish most would go for