ZeroDelta

I forgot to mention that if you are a NI based Land Rover owner I can thoroughly recommend the Belfast Land Rover Centre (BLRC). They really know their stuff, are always ready/happy to help and do a fantastic job. The garage is tucked away up a wooded lane and is a bit like Deliverance, but do not let this put you off as these guys are first class and way cheaper than main dealers.

Hi all. I recently have traded in my beloved Defender TD5 for a Disco 3 (08 & 89k) due to the impending arrival of a new baby. I have to say I am loving the new car but there have been a few teething problems with the car. When I first bought the car I noticed the auto box was indecisive at 1500 rpm and the brakes were shot. The dealer (non Land Rover) changed all the discs and pads and got a LR specialist to flush the gear box and replace the sump filter. The gear box is now working fine but I have noticed that the brakes seem to pulse when under moderate braking. By this I mean when braking the brakes seem to come and go as if they were fading but only for a second before they bite again. The discs have been checked (warping) and all seems to be in order as they are new. Has anyone experienced this before? Is it a braking issue or could it be a brake/gearbox problem? Any advice is must welcome as I want to get this fixed while it is still under the dealer warranty and I have found so far I have to hold his hand when it comes to LR matters. Thanks

You are right and thanks for the advice. Looks like I will have to buy a complete unit.

Hi, I have noticed my steering was getting vague and not that responsive. On closer inspection I found a far degree of play in my steering between the upper and lower UJs - when moved with my hand there is a knocking noise. By the looks of it the play seems to be located at a rubber bush next to the upper UJ. With this in mind is there anyway you can replace the bush or does this come as a complete unit? Failing that is there anyway of tightening it up? Thanks.

Thanks guys thought it was better to check before I break something and then have to call in an expert...

The time has come for me to replace the windscreen seal on my TD5 90 and I was wondering if there is anything I should be aware of or any handy tips? Basically, my seal has perished and I am on a mission to replace all seals that I can before winter. I have replaced windscreens before (an old Golf I used to have) but never a heated windscreen. Also I have read Happyoldgit's submission and it makes perfect sense, but before I start whipping out my windscreen is there anything I should be aware of as I have a heated windscreen? Is it as simple as unplugging and carrying on a normal? Thanks

Thanks Litch and a better idea than the bucket of water... It is less likely to spill going around corners!

off the back of everyone's comments, i have decided to locate the probe behind one of the outriggers under the driver's seat. this way it is away from any heat source, including the exhust, and i can give it a blast with the power hose once in a while to keep it free from gunk... As for the back windows, i have them and it would be nice to use them - especially as i use my wagon as my daily drive

Good idea about wiring it into your clock - did not think of that! I think I know the unit you are talking about and I have bought one, but I found that it was not the most accurate and fell apart pretty quickly. The unit I bought seems to be better made, but only time will tell. Next thing I want to do is improve the heating in my Defender - I want to be about to heat the rear as well as the front so that I can see out the rear windows on cold days and not have them all misted up. Thinking cap on...

With the recent poor weather and my local authority's hit and miss policy of gritting the roads around where I live I decided to fit an outside thermometer to my TD5 Defender 90 XS to help judge how cold conditions are. In previous Defenders I have owned I have tried to do this a number of times, but the thermometer units I bought were really poor quality and inaccurate - I am sure you will have seen these advertised. I also wanted an easy install as my workshop roof is now laying in the next county due to the recent high winds. After the bit of research I found a really good thermometer that is used by people who keep reptiles. You can find it on eBay at this link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160772214729?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 The unit has an inside/outside functionality as well as relative humidity. It is battery operated (AAA) so no power wiring headaches, but best of all it only costs £9.99! The install was really straight forward and only requires a little bit of fettling to prepare it for your Landy. The temperature probe does not have a very long wire attached to it, but a piece of speaker wire can be attached to ensure correct length (long enough to reach from your dash, down to the footwell and then under your Defender to the inside of the front wing). I tested my connections then soldered and heat shrunk the speaker wire into the circuit. Next I decided the best location for the display unit. I decided to to mount it in the bottom righthand corner of my windscreen and fixed it in position with some double-sided foam sticky tape (you can buy a roll of this stuff off Amazon) - see attached pic. I would recommend that you fix your probe in place first and fit the display unit at the end - it just saves you having to peal off and restick etc... I then ran the probe wire down the side of the dash and then across to the drivers door seal. Because of the size of the wire it will fit inside of the door seal all the way down to the footwell - see attached pic. In the footwell I ran the probe wire out and across to a pre-drilled drain hole - the probe just about fits so I would advise not adding anything to it until you get it in the final mounting position - see attached pic. From here I ran the probe and wire forward to the inside of the front wing. The probe has to be away from the engine as the engine heat will effect the units reading. I toyed with the idea to position the probe under the drivers side, but thought that it would get caked in mud and therefore effect the accuracy of the readings. The final resting place was at the front of the wing away form the headlights - heat issues too. Where I could I zip tied the wire into place. I now have a very simple and effective inside/outside temperature gauge in my Defender that is functioning beautifully. The only downside is that the display unit is not backlit so reading it at night is a little tricky. There are more elegant solutions that are more in keeping with the Defender dash, but these require a lot more work and come in around £70 - £80. If I had the time I would install one of these, but for now I am really happy with my immediate fix. The following link is to one of these more expensive units: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Check-Temp-Time-Internal-External-car-temperature-guage-vehicle-thermometer-/370647874159?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item564c55ba6f

Hi, I am looking for some help with my rear window heater on my TD5 90. Basically it will defrost/demist the bottom half of my rear window, leaving the really important bit frosted up. Has anyone come across this probelem before and is there a quick fix before i go and get fleeced by my local LR Dealer? Thanks,

Hi Guys, forgot to say that I had one of the vacuum hoses replaced too, but good call. Also I have changed a split turbo hose, but not checked the filter - will do that.

Hi, I have a 53 plate Freelander 1 TD4 with just under 100k on the clock. The problem I have that the fuel economy has dramatically decreased and starting from cold it is slow going from 1000 to 2000 rpm - above 2000rpm all is fine. So far I have replaced the MAS, cleaned the EGR, put injector cleaner through it and taken it to a Land Rover dealer to run diagnostic on it - still no difference. The dealer cannot find a problem via the computer and my local garage suggested that it may be a glow plug problem, but they were not totally sure. Prior to the problem a turbo hose split which caused a massive power reduction and lots of black smoke out the back... I am at an absolute loss as to what the problem is and so are the garages, can anyone help?

I will be looking to move on the roof with van sides (both white) as well as the rear heated door. I am in Wiltshire so not that far away depending in what part of Surrey you are in. That said I am as yet to start the conversion as I am in the process of preping the Truck Cab.

Guys thanks for the advice - parts ordered. That said I am having real problems finding the window seal that goes around the the rear sliding window - part no MTC6233 or MWC7641. Anyone got any ideas where I can order one from? Thanks,