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Paul Woodward

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Paul Woodward last won the day on March 21 2015

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    Swindon/Wiltshire

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  1. The only time I've experienced this is when the shoe springs were incorrectly fitted. As was said earlier the trailing shoe has no spring at the top.
  2. The quality of the new Facet pumps seem very poor. We have had trouble with 3 or 4 at work. Probably not made in the USA anymore. If you have an old one, hang onto it! We are trying these now. https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/fuel-pumps/holley-external-electric-fuel-pump
  3. A cable would probably be the easiest way. Visit the local bike shop for some Bowden cable.
  4. I agree 100%. The P38 is the same, I avoid flashing the headlights at night as I always seem to end up giving a 3 second blast of main beam instead! What were they thinking.
  5. Could be the chain jumping if it's a Borg Warner transfer box.
  6. No it's just a standard relay, mine is anyway!
  7. Re Manor Farm I couldn't get a reply by email or phone. We just turned up, no one at reception, pitched up, no one at reception in the morning, put the money through the farm letterbox when we left!!
  8. Stayed at this one on a recent laning trip. http://manorfarmcows.co.uk/ No frills site with decent showers/toilet block.
  9. Mine has a 1.4 transfer box and 255/85x16 tyres. Locks up just under 50mph. That's just about right for me, any lower and I'd have to kick it down to accelerate every time.
  10. They were 3/8 BSF in my diff. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSF-Zinc-Plated-Steel-8-8-Grade-5-Hexagon-Head-Bolts-Set-Screws-1-4-To-1-2-/291190441467?var=&hash=item43cc4d85fb:m:mBTUZX7x8s52QWGSP0_1iMQ
  11. That's a nightmare! I wouldn't try to drill it and re tap the thread unless your experienced in such things. It's easy to make a mess of it. You can try an easiout/stud extractor but in my experience if it's tight enough to snap off then an extractor wont shift it. You could build up the broken end with blobs of weld until there's a lump on the end then weld a nut onto it. The heat from welding helps to release the plug. Last resort is take the head off and get an engineering shop to extract it. Sometimes they will come out and do it in situ.
  12. You need to take the manifold off and they are underneath. Pull off the four rubber caps and you'll see the hex head of the plugs. Go careful when undoing them, they can be seized in place depending on how long they've been in there and you don't want to snap one off! Use some copper grease when you put the new ones in.
  13. I'd suggest pressure testing the block to make sure there are no cracks through to the water jacket. If the broken off part is the only issue I'd just dress the sharp edge and not worry about it.
  14. Probably dodgy micro switches in the door lock that are not recognizing the key movements when entering the code. Have the window down and when moving the key to enter the code look at the "lights on" warning light in the instrument cluster. This should flash to indicate that each twist of the key has been recognized.
  15. Hi, welcome to the forum. When bleeding the brakes make sure the adjusters are fully backed off so the brake cylinder pistons are pulled into the cylinders as far as possible. I don't think it matters which hole the nipple goes in. I found this pic on the net, may help.
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