Paul Woodward
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Posts posted by Paul Woodward
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The quality of the new Facet pumps seem very poor. We have had trouble with 3 or 4 at work.
Probably not made in the USA anymore.
If you have an old one, hang onto it!
We are trying these now.
https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/fuel-pumps/holley-external-electric-fuel-pump
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A cable would probably be the easiest way.
Visit the local bike shop for some Bowden cable.
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I agree 100%. The P38 is the same, I avoid flashing the headlights at night as I always seem to end up giving a 3 second blast of main beam instead!
What were they thinking.
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Could be the chain jumping if it's a Borg Warner transfer box.
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No it's just a standard relay, mine is anyway!
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Re Manor Farm I couldn't get a reply by email or phone. We just turned up, no one at reception, pitched up, no one at reception in the morning, put the money through the farm letterbox when we left!!
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Stayed at this one on a recent laning trip.
No frills site with decent showers/toilet block.
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Mine has a 1.4 transfer box and 255/85x16 tyres. Locks up just under 50mph. That's just about right for me, any lower and I'd have to kick it down to accelerate every time.
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That's a nightmare!
I wouldn't try to drill it and re tap the thread unless your experienced in such things. It's easy to make a mess of it.
You can try an easiout/stud extractor but in my experience if it's tight enough to snap off then an extractor wont shift it.
You could build up the broken end with blobs of weld until there's a lump on the end then weld a nut onto it. The heat from welding helps to release the plug.
Last resort is take the head off and get an engineering shop to extract it. Sometimes they will come out and do it in situ.
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You need to take the manifold off and they are underneath.
Pull off the four rubber caps and you'll see the hex head of the plugs. Go careful when undoing them, they can be seized in place depending on how long they've been in there and you don't want to snap one off!
Use some copper grease when you put the new ones in.
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I'd suggest pressure testing the block to make sure there are no cracks through to the water jacket. If the broken off part is the only issue I'd just dress the sharp edge and not worry about it.
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Probably dodgy micro switches in the door lock that are not recognizing the key movements when entering the code.
Have the window down and when moving the key to enter the code look at the "lights on" warning light in the instrument cluster. This should flash to indicate that each twist of the key has been recognized.
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Hi, welcome to the forum.
When bleeding the brakes make sure the adjusters are fully backed off so the brake cylinder pistons are pulled into the cylinders as far as possible.
I don't think it matters which hole the nipple goes in.
I found this pic on the net, may help.
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I've used these on quite a few cars when the original gauze has rotted away, just pushes on the end of a 5/16" or 8mm pipe;
PRC2476
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I haven't but I should think it's quite straight forward.
Undo the nut and remove the lever. Lever out the old seal. Tap in a new one, use a socket or something to fit over the shaft.
Seal part number RTC4289.
Welcome to the forum by the way.
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3/4 UNF is 16 tpi.
HTH.
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About 9 amps for a 14/030 cable.
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I have my cable on the inner hole also, this gives the softest upshift. I had it on the 3rd hole to start with and the shift point was very high.
New fluid does tend to clean out all the muck, this gets lodged in the governor and the box will be slow to shift out of 1st until it warms up. I changed my fluid 3 times and eventually had to remove the governor and clean it out. It's been fine since.
My box had been stood for a long time and I've no idea how many miles it has done.
There's always niggles to sort out when the builds done though. Just when you think you've finished!!
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I cant think of any holes under the starter??
Only this one which is one of the cross bolts for the rear main cap.
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Yes I agree with Soren, you need to look at the boss behind the vacuum pump, not the one in front of it.
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Aren't they just M8 raised countersunk screws?
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The best way is to measure the length of the springs with the truck sat on level ground.
The front spring should be approx 260mm long and the rear 300mm long, measured seat to seat, for a std height.
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Donation made.
It's a long way from me but I'm more than happy to help in a work party if I can.
Good luck with the appeal.
Series 3 brakes, can't get a pedal on the first pump
in Series Forum
Posted
The only time I've experienced this is when the shoe springs were incorrectly fitted.
As was said earlier the trailing shoe has no spring at the top.