Paul Woodward

Me too but I wouldn't pay that for it.

I used std bushes in the eyes of mine. Seem to be fine. http://www.paddockspares.com/552819-shock-absorber-bush-cone-type.html

A friend had some on his 200 Tdi, took them off after a week, felt like the engine was solidly mounted!!

I made my own. There weren't any dimensions though?

Boat anchor

A lot of places now it seems to be £5 minimum for p&p. I usually end up ordering stuff to keep on the shelf to make it worthwhile.

It's probably because you have larger than standard tyres? You can change the drive gear in the transfer box to adjust it. I have 255/85x16 tyres and use the blue gear. Speedo reading is spot on. There are a few different ones; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-Speedometer-Drive-22teeth-Blue-FRC3311-/370887472307?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item565a9db4b3 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-Speedometer-Drive-21teeth-Green-FRC3310-/370887472238?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item565a9db46e http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-Speedometer-Drive-23teeth-Green-FRC3313-/370887472364?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item565a9db4ec http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-1-Speedometer-Drive-20teeth-Blue-FRC3310-/370887472417?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item565a9db521

It looks like a Toro unit. Like a Fairey one but supposed to be stronger. On the Fairey ones that raised boss on the right of your photo has a filler/level plug. I would think if you take the top plate off and fill to the same level it will be fine.

I made a plywood console which I covered in leathercloth.

Last week we had a VOSA van cruising round our carpark at work (it's private property), I guess they have a camera linked up to the computer. The guy in one of the units has had a Range Rover parked outside for ages and the VOSA guys start to fit a clamp to it. Owner appears and there's lots of arm waving going on! Turns out it's a cat C write off so he doesn't have the V5. No V5 means he can't SORN. He can't get the V5 until it's had a VIC check. He can't do that until he has had it MOT'd which he can't do till it's repaired! It took a while but eventually they removed the clamp, guess the VOSA employees don't know the rules either!

Yes the centre holes in the later Range Rover wheels are bigger. When you fit them on a P38 you have to fit those rings to the hubs so the wheels are properly located on the hubs. The rings are usually aluminium or nylon and should just pull off. If yours are steel then they may be corroded to the hubs. Maybe you'll have to cut them off by drilling into them and splitting them with a sharp chisel. Have you got a photo?

I believe they are MR16 connectors. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40%7CR40&_sacat=0&_nkw=mr16+connector&_sop=15

The gearbox breather comes out of the left side just above the mounting. The transfer box breather is on top of the diff lock housing. There are some photo's in this post; http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=19821 That's a Range Rover but they are in the same place.

It could be a bent half shaft or a buckled wheel throwing things out. Turn the wheel half a turn and re check just to be sure.

I've always found Knipex pliers and Irwin vise grips to be good. If you're using the grips for welding then the cheapest are fine as they get ruined quite quickly.

The outer cable is held into the housing with a spring clip. The inner is held to the lever in the same way. You'll need to take the gear knob off and remove the gear indicator slider. When you look into the housing it will all become clear! HTH.

Not sure about your probe but the brake lights are the green and purple wire. Black is earth and red is side lights. Have you checked the bulbs?

There's Bell silencers in Swindon. http://www.bell-silencer.co.uk/exhausts.html

Sorry I don't know the answer but mine did the same. I thought it may have been a vacuum leak but you've eliminated that one. Mine seems to have packed up completely now!

I believe it's standard M10x1.5

The slow change is caused by debris building up in the governor. Sometimes you can fix it by changing the fluid and filter a few times, then clean out the governor. Cleaning the governor is easy but you have to take the transfer box off and remove the rear housing of the gearbox. In theory the gearbox should lock up earlier with the lower ratio transfer box, so not sure whats going on there?? Copied from the Ashcroft Transmissions website; I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why? The governor valve is sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox. We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs.

How about chopping all the flange, pin etc off with an angle grinder then drive it right through and out the other side?

Use the gearbox crossmember from the Disco as well. You may need to drill and tube some holes in the chassis to suit, I can't remember! You'll need to buy or make something to hold the shifter as well. The Disco shift cable is only just long enough. It's a good conversion, my build thread here; http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52483&st=0

I used to run the 3.54 diffs and a Fairey overdrive in my V8 Series III. As has been said really only of use on the motorway. Also depends what size tyres you're running, I was on 235/85x16 BFG muds. The biggest disadvantage for me was that offroad low 1st was too high with the 3.54 diffs.

The rubber bumpstop is bonded to a steel plate which is held to the chassis with two bolts. There is one bolt each end which I guess are the ones you can see. They are not captive. If they are rusted up you're probably better off cutting them off. HTH.