Paul Woodward

Thanks that's great. I found the thread about component weights and yes it mentions 100 & 120kg for the axles. According to BFG the tyres weigh 55lbs. I know what is fitted at present so I'll calculate backwards from the fitted length to see what that works out at.

Today I finally got around to weighing my 90 in order to sort out some better springs. I've got 1112kg on the front axle and 943kg on the rear. To work out the rates required I need some idea what the front and rear unsprung weights would be. Anyone got any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.

I've been hearing good things about Holley fuel pumps. http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/fuelsystem/pumps/holley.html Being a gear type pump they are noisier than the Facet type. They do a regulator as well if required.

The bottom pins on a Disco frame are stepped down on two brackets. If you take those off and fix the pins directly to the frame it will all fit, easier than chopping the chassis. The rads and intercooler are identical, on a 300 anyway.

From the Witter web site; The million Euro question! The EC Directive 94/20/EC states that the towball height should be between 350 and 420mm with the vehicle in the ‘laden’ condition. Laden condition may have been defined (by the manufacturer) as either fully laden (the maximum technically permitted mass of the vehicle as shown in the vehicle handbook), or, conventionally laden (defined as 68.5kg per specified passenger seat and 6.5kg of luggage per specified passenger and located in the centre of the luggage storage area). Alternatively, the towball may be at the height or height range specified by the vehicle manufacturer in the homologation documents and possibly the vehicle handbook. Not so straightforward!

I used rubber lined P clips.

Yes it would fit but there are more differences than just the bell housings. The shift points in a V8 box are different to the Tdi box, I believe that the valve block is what controls those.

Just a thought. Where have the water pipes to the vaporiser been connected? Mine were connected into the heater pipes at the rear of the r/h rocker cover with T pieces. I had a leak on one of them which caused water to run along the rocker cover and drip onto the heat shield just as you describe. It turned out the T pieces were made of plastic and one had cracked by over tightening the hose clip.

Dexron 2 is fine. This stuff is good value and I've heard good reviews of it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250521941151?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I rebuilt mine using a standard seal kit. I replaced the bushes on the main shaft with some Perkins diesel small end bushes. It's a straight forward enough job for any competent mechanic. It's only been in use for 6 months so early days yet. As you say it's worth a shot.

I,m thinking of going along to Malvern tomorrow for the spares day. Does anyone know what the turnout is like there compared to the Newbury event? Anyone going?

Yes they are for the washer tubes, on a 300 TDi bulkhead anyway!

I would agree, your worst bore is 2 thou out, they'll be fine. All you need to do is Flexhone the bores to remove the glaze. This will allow new rings to bed in properly. Have you measured the pistons? Do you plan on re using them?

Is it for diesel or petrol, carbs or injection? The problem with connecting the outlets with a T piece is that when the level is low you may draw in air if driving on a side slope.

As I understand it the direction of oil flow reverses when the torque converter locks up so difficult to decide where to measure the temperature.

It could also be a transfer box problem, I should think that's a Borg Warner transfer box, maybe the chain is slipping? Broken flex plate? Does it drive in reverse?

Sureterm were the cheapest for me. I got a better quote via Confused.com rather than going direct.

The stuff they used was Evans coolant. The specific heat capacity of the stuff is just over half that of water, in other words it doesn't cool as efficiently so your engine will run hotter. I know this to be true as I've tried it. Swings and roundabouts I guess.

I've used Durite ones in the past. Don't know about the postage with these though. http://www.the4x4accessorystore.co.uk/Terminal-rubber-boot/Cablesc---Terminals-and-Wiring/Auto-Electrical-Accessories/275.aspx http://www.autoelectricalpartsuk.co.uk/products/Terminals_and_Connectors/Terminals_Insulators_and_Connectors/000360.html

The pump fitted to the Rover P6 and the MGB V8 is the shortest. It may not be compatible with your timing cover, thermostat housing and inlet manifold though.

Not exactly. You need to cut the corners off a Disco one to clear the seat box mounts on a Defender chassis.

I mounted my oil cooler behind the radiator. Mounted on rubber bushes from a spare radiator frame. Seems to work ok but fitting the bottom hose is a fiddle!

A cheap day for me. I went looking for door cards for lift handle doors but didn't find any. Tin of Copaslip. £2 Pair of speakers. £1 4 eye bolts. £2 I had a chuckle when I saw you leaving with Pat on the trolley. Didn't know it was you though! It made me think of this, www.patvan.co.uk

No that is incorrect. A Byway is marked by green crosses, +++++ on the 1:25000 scale and red crosses and dashes, +-+-+-+ on the 1:50000 scale. Yes you are ok to drive on Byways unless any closure order is in force. The term BOAT is short for Byway Open to All Traffic. BOAT or Byway, the same thing. Permissive byway. Ok to drive but probably wont be marked as a byway on your map. Restricted byway. Not drivable.

You don't need to worry too much about water leaking into the distributor. If it were that easy you could just seal it up. The moisture inside the distributor is condensation caused when the cold water contacts the warm distributor. You can stop the condensation by having a flow of air through the distributor. One pipe in and one out. If you have a supply of compressed air on board you can use that. If not connect it to the inlet manifold and use vacuum. To answer your original question, yes it works, I used the vacuum system on my V8.