Paul Woodward

I would agree, the ones I've seen have all been M6x1.0

Certainly can. The fastener is TPF048P and the sleeve is 12445P. To be fair the sleeves from eBay were fine. http://www.bresco.com/

Just to add, don't buy the ones from eBay as they are useless. The plastic is far too brittle and the clip breaks while you are trying to attach them to the moulding. I bought some from Bresco, they do the job perfectly.

This is going to be an interesting build. Keep up the good work! What axles do you plan on using?

I got mine on eBay. It was imperial on mine 5/16 and 3/8, that's on a 1984 spec fuel tank from a 90 and a 1995 300TDi engine. You do need the exact size, 10mm pipe wont work on a fitting designed for 3/8 pipe. To fit the unions I drilled a hole to suit the pipe in a hard wood block. Cut the block in half through the hole to make two semi circular dies. Warm the end of the pipe in some hot water and clamp between the dies in the vice with about 25mm poking through. Start the union in the end of the pipe and knock it in with a mallet, hold the union square with pliers while you hit it.

I've done the same as M&S. One side of the switch is fed from the ign, for the main battery. The other side is fed from the front winch isolator.

Yes it will work but your wipers will park in the upright position rather than down at the bottom. The fix is to change the position of the park switch ramp in the wiper motor. Remove the cover from the wiper motor, remove the big gear that is attached to the rack cable. On the underside you'll see a plastic ramp, this is clipped in on two posts. You need to prise it out and plug it back in the two holes that are 180 degrees further round the gear. The wipers will now park down the bottom of the screen. Alternatively get a Td5 motor! Hope that helps.

Yes those are the ones. Thanks very much.

I'm looking for the clips that hold the moulding strips to the doors on a early 90. The strips that match up with the rear tub cappings. On the door page of Microcat it doesn't show the outer moulding or the clips. Any ideas?

The reverse light switch is on the side of the auto box where the shifter shaft is. There are 4 wires, 2 are for the starter inhibitor and the other 2 are for the reversing light.

Yes for some reason they are like that on Range Rovers. All you can do is seal the hole with some sealant and fit a plug into the round plate on the bottom of the bell housing. That plate is quite thin so you would need to fit a threaded boss into it or replace the plate with a thicker one.

Only British ones. Bugatti, Alfa Romeo, Hispano Suiza, Amilcar, Fiat, Peugeot etc, etc, are all metric. When I have to work on American stuff that's usually A/F. I already have my own Whit sockets, they're Britool as I use them a lot. At the moment I'm using an adaptor to step down to 1/2" drive. I had to leave the 3/4" drive set behind at my last job as it was a company set, as I said it was a cheap un branded set. That's why I need A/F and Metric but not Whitworth.

Thanks for the replies everyone. What you're saying about buying a quality bar and adding sockets as and when makes a lot of sense. I work on vintage cars, the nuts can be big but not usually that tight. Occasionally I'll need to use a 1/2" rattle gun but not the chain saw version!

I'm looking to buy an a/f and metric 3/4" drive socket set. It's not going to get a great deal of use so I don't want to spend too much. I thought I'd buy a cheaper set and if /when something breaks I'd replace that bit with a quality one. At the last place I worked we had a set that took some real stick, it was chrome vanadium but un branded. Looking on eBay there's a vast range of sets so has anyone got any recommendations? Thanks.

I had the same problem, no doors. I measured a load in the carpark at Newbury sortout and they were all 865-870mm long. I've set my gaps to 880mm, I haven't fitted the doors yet........................

You say you suspected the crankcase breather was blocked? Maybe the seal blew out due to crankcase pressure?

I suspect when the engine is off air is leaking in at the top of the filter and the fuel is draining back to the tank.

Basically you cut the passenger footwell back to the bracket that would hold the steering box if the truck were left hand drive. This is a pic of my old Series from many years ago. Unfortunately the support bracket isn't fitted in this shot but you'll get the idea.

Or you can give Malmesbury Strippers a call 01666 823124 www.malmesburystrippers.co.uk

There's quite a lot of stuff on eBay if you search for upholstery vinyl. Or there's Woolies trim. www.woolies-trim.co.uk

Thanks Paul, looks like another trip to the scrapyard then! I was going to use 2.8mm spades but it would be nice to have the right thing.

It's a easy job to change them. No special tools required. There was a how to in one of the comics recently, can't remember which one though. They did remove the plastic arch liners but I found it easy enough leaving them in. Put it on the lowest setting, leave a door open to stop it trying to self level then jack it up and put axle stands under the chassis. Remove the air pipes and locating clips. When you lower the axle down the bags should come away from their locations. The rears on mine were stuck and needed a pry bar to remove them. I did one end at a time but didn't inflate the system again until all 4 were done. It took a few minutes to fully inflate afterwards. I used Dunlop ones, couldn't justify the extra cash for the Arnott ones. They came in a Britpart box which I was a little concerned about but they are made by Dunlop. Hope that's some help.

Thanks Ralph that's fantastic.

I'm using the Td5 type rear fog switch and relay on my 90. Does anyone know where I can source a connector plug for the relay from? Google tells me that the same relay is used on the Rover 600. I've crawled all over and under 3 of them in the scrapyard this morning but couldn't find it in any of them. Alternatively could anyone look at their relay and tell me which colour wire goes to which pin? The pins on the relay aren't numbered so the diagram isn't much help. Black/Slate,- Switch. Black,- Earth. Red/Yellow,- Lamp and warning light. Blue/Purple,- Supply. Thanks for any replies.

I've fitted mine in the sump. I brazed a boss into the rear face of the sump just above and to one side of the drain plug. The sump is double skinned so I made the boss with a flange and fitted from the inside and brazed it inside and out. The truck isn't on the road yet so no idea if it's going to work!