Paul Woodward

If you look up the bore it should be obvious. There are 4 holes drilled through it.

I expect your transfer box has a cross drilled input gear and the one originally on your auto box didn't. You need one of these; http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=47

I'd not seen this one before. Can't trust anything any more! http://www.ebay.co.u...f#ht_500wt_1287

I'd say it's more likely a problem on the supply side. Not sure about windows but everything else not working is fed from a permanent live. If you look on the wiring diagram you'll probably find that all these items are fed from a common point somewhere. Sorry don't have a Disco diagram to look at! Good luck!

What engine is it on??

Soldering always works for me!

You could try a centre oil feeder plate from Ashcrofts. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=52 6th item down. It catches oil flung up by the gears and feeds it into the centre of the mainshaft gear.

It makes the one I saw seem positively tasteful. No offence if you're a forum member!

Ref the dipping door mirrors; Not all P38's had that option. The photo chromatic mirror glasses are horrifically expensive. Both mine had been replaced with ordinary ones and the wires left dangling inside the case! I'm also interested in the memory function. The memory function doesn't work on my passenger one, it turns down when you engage reverse but wont come back up again.

I've got one of theseSnap-On packer. Cant fault it.

I used 30mm solid EN16t. I have used EN8 and EN1a in the past, all have been stronger than the std tube.

My bolts were missing when I assembled mine. I found a 3/8 drive Snap On 17mm socket just fitted in the hole. The other alternative would be to use cap head bolts with a washer.

I'd lost interest by the second line. It may be a good truck but it's hard work reading add's with no punctuation.

I've got a multicar policy from Admiral too. P38 & the wife's Megane, when I added a 3rd car the premiums on the other 2 were reduced as well. The total mileage now being split between 3 vehicles. It works well if you have more cars than drivers. No good for modified vehicles though.

Depending on the spec of the pump they will be either 1/8 or 1/4 NPT. The higher flow pumps have a bigger union. As Tanuki says Merlin sell them, straight or 90 degree.

Gearbox oil cooler. Bracketry to fix the kickdown cable to the injection pump. Have you got the flywheel/torque converter/flex plate?

Looking at the diagram it looks like it's supposed to be like that. Slate/red, from the transmission warning light goes to a diode that joins to the white/yellow going to the handbrake switch. Black/white, from the brake fluid level light goes to a diode that again joins to the white/yellow. White/yellow, from the handbrake light goes direct to the handbrake switch. Maybe it's so you know the other lights are working? If the transmission or fluid level switch activates then only that particular lamp will light as the diodes will only allow the current to flow one way. Does that make any sense? I would include a copy of the diagram.....if I could figure out how to do it!

Yes simply stunning. Hope to get up there myself one day.

I'll think you'll find that the length of the engine and transmission will be too long to fit a 88" keeping the Series front and a usable rear prop. If you're bothered about the points it wont add up will it? Different transmission, engine and axles. If it's not tax exempt I wouldnt worry about it personally. Good luck!

There are two plugs. One in each rear corner of the boot behind the little covers, they should be capped and clipped to the framework. The r/h one does most of the lights. The l/h one is for the reverse and fog lamps and a 12volt supply. You don't need to activate them.

Definately no needle rollers in mine. It had been reconditioned previously though

Yes as you say you can use Defender calipers. The bolt spacing is the same but the bolt diameter may be different. I had to make shouldered bolts when fitting Defender calipers to a Range Rover hub. Nothing that can't be overcome quite easily.

If the system is leak free then it shouldn't settle on the bump stops. Have a look under the car and see if the axle is against the bump stops. It will try to level the vehicle when parked. My drive is on a slope so after parking for a while the rear will be up and the front down. It should rise up to the normal position quite quickly, 30 seconds sounds fine. My pump cuts in and out occasionally while driving and I believe that is correct. There must be some problem though if one corner isn't rising the same as the others. I'm sure an expert will be along shortly!

Jason, your maths is correct and your relay and fuse should be fine. What size cable are you running to the lights? Are you using proper terminals or those horrid pre insulated things?

If the shaft is moving up and down then the adjustor on the top isn't set correctly. If the shaft is moving side to side in the bushes then I'm afraid it's worn out, hence the oil leak. There are some Perkins little end bushes you can use to re bush the housing. The problem is the shaft is usually rusty where the seal runs and the new seal doesn't last long. Sounds like you need a new steering box. I've got a couple of bushes spare if you fancy having a go at fixing yours?