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JimAttrill

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About JimAttrill

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    So important that they banned 50 000 IP addresses to shut me up

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    http://landyonline.co.za
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    S 26°01.3' E027°58.5 1373m Johannesburg, South Africa

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  1. Another question - the KS pistons have arrows on them. Should they face forwards or backwards. I cannot find arrows on the old original pistons.
  2. Thanks. I discovered the part in the bottom gasket set with that number.
  3. I think I have the seal in a box but am not sure of the number
  4. I am about to overhaul my 300tdi engine after 330 000 kms. I have all the parts required as I got them at trade discount 10 years ago when I worked for a LR garage! I have the LR overhaul manual. I notice that the manual says to change the con rod nuts but there is no mention of the bolts. That seems a bit strange to me. Should I get nuts and bolts? While at that garage I overhauled a couple of Tdi engines and did not change the bolts then either.
  5. The genuine 300tdi manual says that the connecting rod nuts should be changed but there is no mention of the bolts. Should those also be changed? My engine has 330 000 kms on it and the nuts were changed at half that when I changed the rings. This time it will be a complete overhaul with new sleeved and pistons etc.
  6. I have a 27mm which is too small and a 32mm which is too big. Before I go to buy a spanner for this, can anyone tell me exactly what the spanner size is? As usual the LR manual is not helpful on spanner sizes.
  7. There is no decal, but the two yellow relays are identical - at least the numbers for the connections are the same. Tried swapping them around to no effect. No signs of burning. BTW when I switch on the headlamps the indicator green light comes on. When I flash the headlights or go onto main beam the blue light comes on and I can hear a relay clicking.
  8. Just in case I carry a much shorter fanbelt which can be used to bypass the alternator in case of bearing failure. This will keep the water pump and p/s pump turning.
  9. I know about the contacts melting as I changed many burnt-out switches on other people's Defenders. I have fitted relays to the dip beam to avoid this. It was done quite a few years ago. I think the answer is the ignition-switch controlled relay. Is it one of those yellow things in the fusebox? It could be the main/dip switch. The headlamp flashers do not work either - is this a good clue?
  10. I (and several friends) are using Redline MTL in the R380 (NOT THE TRANSFER BOX). It gives a wonderful gearchange caused by it's high coefficient of friction which helps the synchro cones to slow down. The other thing is that as it is a fully-synthetic it contains no additives to wear out so it never needs to be changed which offsets the high initial cost. I have used ATF (long time ago now) MTF (I got 20 litres at one time - all gone now) and now MTL. Gearchange still perfect at 200k miles. BTW I change gear in two movements - into neutral, pause and then into the next gear. No graunching. I sometimes double-declutch just to keep in practice :-)
  11. My headlights - dipped and main - occasionally would not switch on at all. I did the normal thing and changed the switch. All seemed fine for a couple of weeks (mainly driving during daylight) until last night when the lights would not come on again. I don't think it can be a fuse as the lights are separately fused (4 fuses). Any ideas where the fault lies? BTW the sidelights work with the switch ok.
  12. You have checked that you have the correct bulbs in the stop/tail light sockets? Forcing in a single-filament bulb can cause all sorts of lighting problems. The most amazing I have come across was a TD5 where the engine wouldn't stop with the brakes on
  13. Maybe X-eng could make some decent con-rod bolts? - I don't really trust LR parts much any more. Re the 5 times re-usable - maybe they asked the tea lady for a number between 1 and 10 She is the same one who 'designed' the TD5 chain-driven oil pump (unique?) Brian and I have a theory that the engineers designed a bit of the TD5 engine each. But the project leader forgot to get someone to design an oil pump. When they started it on the test bed it seized as there was no pump. So they got the tea-lady to design one as an add-on
  14. The camshaft/roller/slider arrangement in Rover engines is massively over-engineered but works very well. The camshafts don't wear and the whole assembly gives little trouble. BUT we did have a batch of 'genuine' rollers that would wear somewhat octagonal and eventually stop turning, which didn't do the camshaft any good. And as for the valve caps the less said the better as they seem to be made of dinky toy metal. Don't forget to change the oil pressure relief valve piston and spring as it is often forgotten. The oil pumps on the 300tdi don't seem to wear and I have never changed one. Best of luck with your rebuild
  15. Actually what happened was the R380 came in with the 300Tdi in 1994 in the UK. They had a few failures of the early boxes (I have a 1995 one) and when the Freelander came out it specified the same gearbox oil as a few Hondas, etc. This was MTF94. So LR sent a service bulletin to their dealers to use the Freelander oil in the R380 gearboxes. I have a copy on the bulletin somewhere, dated 1996. I had 20l of MTF94, but when it ran out I couldn't get any more from Caltex and then heard about the RedLine fully synthetic MTL. This is the greatest oil for the R380 and at 311k kms I have a wonderful gearchange with no crunching. As the oil never wears out I will never change it. I have also used Castrol VMX. Not as good as the synthetic but better than ATF! On the engine front I use a high-quality (CI) 15w40 diesel engine oil. A 5w/30 oil will be a synthetic and a waste of money in a Tdi as the oil gets very dirty and should be changed often. I change my oil at around 5k kms and the filter at 10k kms. Apparently the filters work better when they are a bit old.
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