JimAttrill

To have a cylinder re-sleeved costs about the same as a decent new one. But it will last for ever! It is a well-known fact that the Defender m/c is actually a SII item in disguise - check the AF threads for a start. And they last the life of the vehicle in the Series. In the Defender there is something wrong with the angle of the pushrod which causes the aluminium bore to wear oval - this is why it is useless to change the seals in an old cylinder. The stainless sleeve does not wear so the problem is fixed. You can, however improve things by trying to make sure that the pushrod is in a straight line.

Never seen one of those! I use a ½" power bar and a Chinese angle gauge which is too long on the Disco. So I had to estimate the angles at the back.

T You won't have a problem with a Defender. Space at the back is very tight on the Disco.

RTFM

Oh well, you are supposed to change them every 2 years anyway (not that anyone does that).

Start saving up for a recon box. Has it been used for towing horse-boxes or suchlike? A good idea is to change the DXII ATF for synthetic DXIII oil as it is heat-proof. Unfortunately you will have to change the oil twice as it is impossible to drain all the old oil out. Castrol make a pretty cheap synthetic ATF. The Disco 2 auto box can easily go to over 120c and that is too hot for ordinary ATF.

You MUST prime the turbo otherwise it will instantly self-destruct. It is easy - undo the banjo and squirt engine oil in the hole and then replace the banjo.

Did the head gasket on a genuine Camel 200tdi. Getting the torque right on the rearmost head bolts is a problem. It is strange that as the 200tdi engine was designed for the Disco, but I suppose the vehicle and engine designers didn't speak to each other. Not a problem on the 300Tdi, but then again it has a different gearbox and bell housing. The engine must be a bit lower.

The EDC engines are notoriously hard to start. We had one in the workshop and couldn't believe how difficult it was to get it going. Luckily that was the only one we ever saw as it must have been a personal import. LR Seffrica did not import them. I wonder why? It is, of course, possible to replace the pump and injectors with the non-pooter type. But expensive.

From experience you should fit Lockheed seals. The tin ring on the Britpart or Bearmach seal kit is the wrong shape and is normally buggered when fitting.

Delay when turning the key before the engine turns over points at the spider. Often can be fixed by removing same and resoldering the joints. Or it can be removed altogether. There are instructions in the Archive on how to do this.

This is the 'cheating' quick way of changing swivel seals. I did it and I am not Charles Atlas by any means, but you will definitely need a trolley jack. Much easier in the long run than taking the whole sheboodle to bits

One thing to remember, especially in Africa where vehicle recovery is difficult and very expensive, is that if your ABS stops working for any reason, so does your TC and HDC. The HDC doesn't matter much, but if you have no diff lock and no TC you are in one-wheel drive which won't get you far in the deep sand of eg. Botswana. And from my experience with other's vehicles, the ABS is not very reliable. And the reasons for it to stop working are many, some of which might be fixable at the side of the road (belt the sensors with a hammer) and others require spare parts that you would be unlikely to be carrying with you.

On the Defender TD5 the clutch m/c is still the old SII type but there is a switch bolted to the outlet. The Disco must have a similar switch somewhere. Unfortunately I don't have a disco to go look at!

Yes, just tell the ECU that there is no air suspension. A garage would do this as a matter of course when using steel springs. If you set that off and the 'three amigos' are still there then you will have to go through the procedure for getting rid of those lights by doing all the recommended things. This has been discussed ad nauseum on this forum so you should be able to look up what to do. Most likely in the Tech Archive.

Check that the spring loading works on the tensioner because they can corrode solid. Also use the MK 1 eyeball to see if all the pulleys are in line. If they are not, use washers behind the pulleys to get them in line. Oh, you say the tensioner goes up and down that means the spring is working. But if it goes up and down a lot there is something out of line there. My tensioner does not move at all and the spring is ok. Also in 17 years I have had a few fan belts and none have squeaked at all.

The main beam will have a relay used for flash and main beam. So if the main beam works the relay is ok. If you want your light switch to last fit relays to the low beam as well. Just about all car manufacturers save a few bob this way and it causes the light switch to burn out.

Both parts with and without the 'washer' can be used. I think the shield was to keep grunge out of the bearing. BTW it is not necessary to hammer out the bearing, all you need is a vice and sockets of various sizes. I must have changed hundreds of these on services. The bearings are cheap so we used to change any suspicious bearing. Most of the bearings are 6203's but in true LR fashion, some are another type - I forget the number off hand.

If it is a ventilated disk it will not be warped but might be fitted incorrectly or worn unevenly. Most 'warped' disks are not warped at all. If you do an emergency stop and keep your foot on the pedal it will imprint the pads onto the disk and this causes judder which is put down to 'warped' disks by most mechanics.

The fault could be your throttle pedal not working properly. It has a potentiometer on it which can go wrong. Sometimes they stick at flat out which can be nasty.

And while they are at it get them to drill holes in the plates that separate the top half from the bottom half of the rad. This seems to be a design fault. Anyway, drill holes and then the radiator works better.

Well yes, it is a sensor, but whether you would get a gauge to match it correctly is another matter ...

At least you spotted the diesel leak before you seized your engine. I presume the garage drained out the contaminated oil and filled with new oil ....

I can't say exactly why, but I suspect a sticking throttle cable. Try oiling it somehow.

The 300tdi seal must not be oiled before fitting and neither must the crank be oiled. Apparently the seal is pre-treated with something (they don't say what). I presume the same applies to the 200tdi seal .....