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JimAttrill

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Everything posted by JimAttrill

  1. The standard LR gauge is useless anyway
  2. If the crank is one tooth out the engine will not start. If the camshaft is a tooth out you lose some power.
  3. If you are getting a knocking noise the chances are that the timing is too advanced. The best thing to do is to beg, borrow or steal a proper diesel timing set. I use one by Snap-on though I believe Sykes-Pickavant make one. There is a piezo sensor clamped to no 1 injector pipe which senses the pulse of the diesel firing. You can then use a normal strobe light on the crank pulley. There is a timing mark on the case! We have found the best timing to be 10 deg BTDC. The normal setup with the pins is slightly retarded at about 5 deg BTDC.
  4. TD5 autos are remarkably slow, especially when cold. Get the thing remapped and away you go.
  5. Dooroy is exactly right. I have fixed a couple like that. Then there is one less thing to go wrong I used a 'technical tap' to remove the box.
  6. Not being a fisherman, I just take out shims until it 'feels' right. If it swings with no effort it is too loose and if it is stiff it is too tight. Remember that the LR torque figures are without the seals which is a pain and removing and replacing the seals can cause leaks which you didn't have before.
  7. Can you still get a 2.8 TGV ie. the Brazilian motor?
  8. Ethylene glycol is funny stuff. Often it looks blue in the bottle. You mix it with water and it goes green. If you have a leak it dries out pink. Wierd, eh?
  9. You can weld the sump plug in if you have one of those kits to suck the oil out of the dipstick hole. All these cheepo 'service' places don't take out the sump plugs (the gorillas that work there will either cross-thread or strip the plug) so they cheat. Oh, and Land Rover stealers™ also have a history of stripping sump plugs.
  10. Happened to me yonks ago with the original LR hose. Except that mine delaminated completely and blocked the outlet. I have changed that pipe about 3 times now and always carry a spare. As I have a boost gauge I can normall spot when things go wrong. The gauge is fun to look at but also comes in handy sometimes!
  11. Never heard of the T seals giving problems. The rear crank seal ..... maybe
  12. That sounds unusual for Bilsteins. I hope the replacement is better. After all, it is just one that was no good and that is most likely a one-off manufacturing fault. But reputation isn't everything. OME dampers seem to last about 3 months. Funny, since they are reputedly Monroe in disguise. I have Monroes (Belgian ones) that I fitted in 2000 and they don't leak. But I am thinking of replacing them with Ironman (also Australian) shocks which seem to last for ever.
  13. It's all to do with stopping the engine from starting properly. Many people have grief with auto 300s that won't start. The electronic gubbins can be disabled however. In THEORY the EDC motor gives more power (if you can start it) but you can easily tweak your manual pump to get the same or more power. Luckily LRSA didn't import 300tdi autos but unfortunately a few were brought in privately. They are enough to make you tear your hair out
  14. One very noticeable difference between petrol and diesel engines is how they react to being mistimed. You get a diesel just a little out and it won't start whereas some petrol engines (the LR 2.25 being a case in point) you can get the timing miles out and it still starts and runs after a fashion. Anyone who has put the timing belt on a diesel one tooth out on the crank will know what I mean ....
  15. Or water injection as I did....
  16. There is a crush spacer in there behind the nut. The nut should be done up until the play is removed. It seems to be one of those things that you do by experience. The manual isn't very helpful on this.
  17. I am searching my printed parts catalogue and cannot find this number. The part is brand-new in a box. My LT230 is an early box (E?) and I fitted the LR 'fix' top-hat section yonks ago in 1996. I am just wondering if it would fit, or is it for a V8 or something? My engine is a 300Tdi. As my box has done 300k kms now with no problems I am not too worried. But maybe I could sell the shaft if I knew what engine and box it was for.
  18. Oh dear - the 'Three Amigos'. You will need to put it on a pooter to see where the fault is. Often it is the wheel speed sensors which can often be fixed by giving them a 'technical tap' with a hammer inwards so they get closer to the sensor wheel thingy. If that fails you will have to change the sensor. There is also a block of three sensors under the ABS pump - unfortunately you have to take the pump out to get at them. And that means you will have to bleed the system afterwards which needs the pooter again. At worst you will need a new or second-hand ABS pump. Not really good news I'm afraid. Remember that if the ABS doesn't work neither does the traction control which means you will be down to one-wheel drive so don't hit the mud.
  19. MTF94 is made by Texaco. They sell it to LR.
  20. Early 110s had a bias valve but it was deleted before the Defender came along. I've never seen one. Maybe people remove them as it is just something else to go wrong.
  21. I vote for a warped exhaust manifold with a broken stud or two.
  22. I wish they did take only 5 minutes to fit .... Hang on, it's better as it is as we charge for labour of course.
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