larna86

Thanks for the responses - will repair it and use as a spare extension, as I had bought a replacement just in case.

All, Seeking advice from more experienced members - my synthetic winch line has a good chafe in it - see picture. Is this repairable or do I not need worry? It’s 10mm Dyneema and approx 10yrs old. Thoughts please!

Following my last post on this and from a few other pointer, I solved it by replacing the solonoid with a genuine Bosch part. Don’t know why it works but the “stray” voltage of 2-3v doesn’t seem to be enough to hold open. Whether it means the solenoid is breaking down I don’t know, but glad it sorted. Hope you get it sorted soon 😊

I’ve been reading this thread with interest as I am experiencing exactly the same issue. Mine started 12 months ago and to stop the engine required pressing the brake pedal. On Sunday this now no longer works. Mine is 200tdi in a series vehicle with no resistor or diode. Having trawled other threads some would suggest it could be the solenoid at fault and replacing it (and ensuring it’s not bits of gunk) blocking the seal. It was recommended that a genuine part or well established make is better than “blue box” and at about £15 it seems a cheap way to rule in or out. Agreed a diode might solve the issue now but doesn’t explain why it worked for 6 years without issues, and why it suddenly started? If you do solve it, let us know as I too am equally keen to resolve as stalling it every time is getting a tad frustrating and somewhat embarrassing. Ed

Overheating can be an issue, but this is not due to the engine but usually poor radiators. Make sure yours is in good condition (not full of c**p) and then use goood quality coolant at the right mix. The 4cyl gearbox is fine, but treat it with respect. If you drop the clutch and floor it - inevitably it will be wrecked after a few thousand miles. To get all to fit I moved the engine mounts forward, removed the engine fan and went electric, tbh I only ever needed it on hot days in traffic. If all tuned right, the engine runs like a sewing machine - really quiet and really smooth, they can tick over as low as 600rpm, though mine was around 900. With plenty of power, you’ll have real,fun, though watch the right foot as half shafts can quickly need replacing!

Totally agree, mine went like stink as it has the Weslake head, braking was always the issue and you “bailed” before it stopped pulling. Jeremy1 has seen mine and makes a great period conversion and well worth spending the time doing - you’ll never stop smiling once done.

I’ve one in S1 86 inch, really sweet engine, but a tight fit.

Keeping the front panel is a must - without it, you lose the character of it being a S3. It is possible to do as I did with a S2 panel. Admitly it requires trimming and some cleve fabrication but I did manage to use the Disco radiator and an electric fan. I did have to go with a different intercooler (Fiat I think) to make fit but it well enough. I used the S3 deluxe bonnet (deep dished) as this fitted better than a S2 bonnet and gave me the extra few inches in height underneath. Glad to see your project is coming along - keep us al posted 👍

I had to widen the "slots" for the mounts on the engine and again to those welded to the chassis. I think the chassis mounts may have been welded after test fitting the engine. TBH I can't really remember but i don't remember it bit being a big issue at the time. 🤔

I won't lie, the 200tdi does rattle but I followed the advice from others on the forum And I bought genuine 200tdi engine mounts. I went for the round ones and I don't regret it. Having spoken to others who went "blue box" they all say they wish hadn't. When you do the instal spend some time and money noise insulating and preventing rattles. I didn't and regretted it so much I went back and did it but it was considerably harder to do later than at the start.

Been reading this with some interest and having built a 88 series hybrid on a coil chassis I thought give you my thoughts. I run a Disco 200Tdi with Disco transfer box giving the higher ratio for the road. Instead of the 4.71 diff I used the 4.11 ratio, though I had the advantage of putting ARB lockers in at the same time. It happily runs at 65-70mph on the road so fine with keeping up with traffic though never going to win race or be first off the lights. What you seem to want will be a lot of work and not much left of the series vehicle, but with enough time, money and effort/enthusiasm anything is possible. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Its freaky I had exactly the same issue last week, after changing the ignition switch and starter I realised it wasn't any of those but the braided earth cable at fault. The way to check is use a jump lead connected on the starter back to the neg terminal on the battery. If it starts - it's an earth issue and easiest to replace. Keep us updated.

I've got the system on my S1 86, yes the welding is a bit of a faff and it is designed for S2&3 so further modifications were needed, but a brilliant system. The front dumb iron does lock for road use but I rarely lock it. It can be "interesting" in the wet and cornering at speed if not used to it. I didn't bother with the revolvers at the back as the revised mountings gave me more than enough articulation especially when coupled with 235/85 and an ARB in the rear. Happy to take some pics if needed or if you want to come and have a look let me know. Ed

James - I have it fitted to my S1 86inch though did not use the revolver shackles in the end as the revised mounting and link points gave enough travel for me. Mine is road based so extreme articulation was not the priority though gives way more articulation than standard. The fronts have a locking system for on the road when you need to drive home that makes it way less "scary" I can post some pics if you want to show how it goes together - or you can come and have look for yourself.

I bought the Ricky Evans ones last year at about that price, very pleased with the quality and well packaged. The RE version were with "ribbons". I bought the switches and timers from a chap on the S2 forum who sold them as a kit. I wanted my screens to be independent of each other (so not drawing too much juice) and he was happy to help. Go for it - best investment I made and really easy to do if prepared to do a good job My only piece of advice is to get a second screen and fit the glass to that so if goes wrong you can put the original back in. Use plenty of sealant to stop the whistles and leaks. Make sure the frame is spotless when you seal otherwise when you tighten the securing strips the glass will crack. "Dum Dum" paste was the original sealant but I used a black flexi sealant and works well. Plenty has been mentioned previously so worth reading these threads.

Snagged - heated screens from Ricky Evans, timers and switches sourced via different suppliers. I have drivers and passengers on separate switches/timers for convenience. Screens were about £170 inc VAT and the other bits were about another £30. I took it slowly and had a spare screen to install on and took me about a day to do, all in. Am sure it can be done cheaper and probably quicker but as was doing it myself, I wanted to do it correctly to me specification. Not used in earnest but mate has it and works a treat, so bring on the snow and the frosts!

Just used sikaflex for my heated windscreen - no complaints so far.

I've got the Rover P5 3lt engine with Weslake head in my S1 86inch. Admittly it's a tight squeeze but possible. It's used off road a fair bit and with the original gearbox I've broken one half shaft only. When set up well it's very very smooth and will idle at 600rpm easily. Just my two pence worth

Thank you everyone for your help on this matter. I seem to have solved the situation by retaining the Disco 200TDI 88 degree thermostat and using the green temperature sensor (PRC9917). I also replaced the stabilizer behind the gauges and made sure the gauges and the stabilizer are properly earthed. This seems to have done the trick and the temperature now reads dead in the middle (i.e on the N mark) FYI - replacing the 88 degree themostat with an 88 degree thermostat brought he temp reading to just over the "white area" and so was discountede as being "too cool" Ed

Thanks all. I thought I had a genuine sender but will check the bag it came in. Please can someone confirm the correct part number I should be using. Thanks Ed

I thought that this might be the case, is there any harm (or potential damage) to be done by using the 74 or 82 degree thermostat in the Disco engine? Thoughts please - positive and negative! Thanks Ed

I have looked on previous posts but all the suggestions dont seem to work. Situation is as follows: S2 with S3 gauges (temp and fuel) with a Disco 200tdi. I changed the temperature sender for a series 2.25 with adaptor (Steve Parker) as recommmended. The wiring is brand new and connections good. the wiring runs a fused supply to voltage stabiliser (metal thing behind the dash) and then on to the gauges. Fuel gauge is working fine but the temp gauges when running sits just under the red area and doesnt move. The radiator has the Disco themostate (changed for genuine) and is correct at 88 degrees. Themostat works fine as checked with hot water and thermometer. Question is how do i get the temp gauge to read level and normal at 88 degrees and could the volatge stabilizer be the problem? If so where do i get a reputable one (or aftermarket) and not made by "Br**part" Any help much apreciated as its beginning to do my head in. Thanks Ed

Gazzar, I sent a SWB chassis, bulkhead and front panel to be galvanised in December 2011, total cost inc VAT and delivery there and back was £195. You cant argue with that when the mileage there and back was 90 miles. They collected on a Monday and delivered back on a Friday. I used East Anglian Galvanizers at Peterborough - highly recommend them

I too had a set of revolvers for my S1 86 inch. I fitted the front gon2far mounts but never fitted the shackles. I used extended spring hangers which works well.

Ah! second photo attached showing pump attached to engine