Pudock

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I have found a small leak in my injector pump (2.5 TD). It is only small just now, but as I know nothing about injector pumps I'm after som opinions as to what I can do about it. The red arrow in the picture points to the part that is leaking (ignore the blue and yellow arrow, old picture). It is seeping out of the end where the "do not touch" yellow paint is, even with the engine off, so don't want to tighten anything incase I upset something. Thanks for any help Stephen

Thanks guys, throttle cable is fine by the way. I'll adjust the screw a little tomorrow.

Some time ago I put the motor into the garage to get the head gasket done. When it came back I noticed that it was idling slightly faster but had lost a some of its engine breaking. What could cause the loss in braking ability? Does the higher idling speed have anything to do with it? Thanks

Thanks Les, I'll put them in the way you and the book say rather than the way the old ones came out.

On a slightly different note, the rings on my pistons are on in a different order from what the manual says. My rings are oil control at the bottom then chamfered ring and then square section at the top while the manual says the chamfered ring should be at the top. Does the order really matter as the pistons have never been out in the 10 years I've had the car?

I did not clean it much before the photo, just a wipe with a rag. Pistons 3 and 4 had more burning on them than that but are fine. Piston 1 is fine but it was covered in oil. I'm hoping not to spend to much fixing it. The only reason I took it apart myself was I could not justfy the expence of getting the garage to open an old TD up to tell me that its all shot. So I'm trying to balance between repairing or replacing the engine. Thanks for the answers guys

I know that its hard to judge from a photo, but does this look like a crack that I should worry about or is it just a score? The head is of to replace piston rings on the number 1 piston. This is number 2 piston. Thanks

I've had another listen and look at the engine and I think it could well be the head gasket like you are saying. The engine did not overheat, so what would cause the gasket to go 9 months after it was replaced?

Can I afford to fit a 200dtdi? Not really no, but as I need the 110 for work I might have no choice. The head gasket was done last autumn. So if its gone again so soon then there must be another problem causing it wouldn't there?

I was driving along at about 50mph today when the amount of smoke from the exhaust suddenly increase and a loss of power. The smoke was white/blue (oil?) I stopped to have a look and listen. The engine was idling at very low revs but it did not stall and I thought I could hear a background noise (which I can't work out how to type :oops: ). Managed to limp the few miles home. While driving back I had a steady stream of white/blue smoke and didn't have the power to get out of third gear without pushing it, which I did not want to do. The only thing that I have done is loosen the injector unions (as it says in Haynes) to see if the smoke goes away. There was no real change to the smoke. I got the impression from the book that the diesel was expected to spray from the unions. One of mine spat a bit and the other three just dripped. Engine is a 2.5TD and has just past 200,000 miles Any ideas that I can try before I take it to the garage? Thanks Stephen

I'm on the lookout for a good cordless worklight and found these. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Twin-Rechargeable-Light-Tripod-Stand/dp/B002VKEWRO/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1264629924&sr=8-1-fkmr1 Has anyone bought a set? Are they any good or did they break after a month? Or are there any other cordless work/flood lights around that anyone can recommend? Thanks Stephen

That is pretty much what I am going to do. I need some welding done (again) at my local garage so they are going to have a quick look at the gearbox as well to see if its just something I'm missing or if its more serious. Thanks for your help again folks

Well the old box has the adjustable type plunger so I have tried that but it still does not seem to help. The only effect it has is making it easier or harder to go through the gate to reverse, but the gear still does not engage. I shall have another look when I have more time. The oil I'm using Bigwood, is this Difflock oil Thanks again

Its not the light as I tried it without the switch in place and still no joy. The reverse plunger on the new gear box is different from the one in your manual Western. It does not seem to be adjustable I will check the old box later to see if it has a different plunger Thanks

I've just fitted a new recon Lt77 gearbox, filled it with expensive difflock oil and gone for a short drive and I'm not to happy. 95% of the time I cannot engage reverse gear when stopped. It will engage if the landy is still rolling. The other gears are alright but notchy and noisy compared to the one I have just removed Is there anything that I can do or adjust? I will also phone the supplier on Monday for there advice. Thanks

I use to get about 22-23 mpg no matter how I drove but now its nearer 20 as the engine is getting a bit worn.

One or more of the gaskets must have failed. The box has always had a drip of oil or 2 on it but it never formed a puddle on the ground unlike the T-box and engine which leave great streams of the stuff. So its entirly my fault for not checking it as often as the other levels Thanks for the garage, but its a bit far. The 110 is my only vehicle so I can only really drive it to a local garage(who does my MOT) or take the plunge and have a go myself. Thanks again

Thanks. I was hoping a fix might be cheaper than a recon box but having looked at the diagrams in the workshop manual I can see that its unlikely. So, Mr Haynes says that it is a fairly simply job to do, but I would be working in a car park opposite some lock-ups not a clean dry workshop and the most complicated thing I've done on the vehicle are swivel bearings is it something I should try myself? I would probably take the opportunity to replace the clutch while I'm in there and maybe even try to stop the oil that leaks (pours) out the bellhousing. Thanks

My gearbox has developed a problem after it "ran out" of oil I know I've probably knackerd it but here are the symptoms. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th all make a loud whine, 4th sounds like normal. When changing from 3rd into 4th there is a crunch unless the change is done slowly, all other changes are fine. Other than the noise it drives fine but dont intend to drive it. It is an LT77. Does it sound like bearings. If it is, is it likely to be cheaper to get a gearbox specialist to replace them or better to get a recon box for someone like Ashcroft. I should point out that I know very little about gearboxes. Thanks

Is there a reason why JATE rings are not longer so they extend past the end of the dumb iron. It seems logical to me, know more shackles jamming against the chassis or groping about under the vehicle in the mud.

Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between the rear crossmember (110 with extensions) that Paddock sell and the one Craddock sell, or are they just the same? Does anyone sell a better one? Thanks Stephen

Thanks guys, I'm now a bit paranoid about recovering from the rear cross member. I know a new one will be stronger, just don't want the new one to go the same way. Has anyone used this company before? http://www.designa-chassis.co.uk/lrparts.asp A bit more expensive than the Paddocks one but that doesn't always mean better.

I had a little mishap the other day while out in the mud, so I've got a couple of questions. Assuming that this is not worth fixing and I get the cross member replaced, what is the best way to ensure this doesn't happen again. Should I fit 2 recovery points instead of a central one? If two, should they go in line with the chassis rails or just inside them. What type of recovery points do you recomend? I cant weld by the way so it will be a garage job whatever happens. Thanks Stephen

Bingo! It was the idle screw. It's now running as normal. Thanks