Repair My Landrover

I know that this would not have helped on this occasion but can I draw peoples attention to this http://www.repairmylandrover.co.uk/leadarticle/exclusive-safe-t-pedal-discount it's money off a Defender security device and any money saved in this day and age has to be worth a go.

It's now a signpost for the entrance to crocodile creek at Weymouth Sealife Centre, all my kids could say was "Spares" when they saw it. There was another that is in a lagoon but we got distracted by some grab a teddy machines and forgot to get a pic but I completed my kids spot a Land Rover competition that they play on each trip out so they were pleased.

Spotted 2 today on a family day out. Here's a pic of one of them, excuse the family surrounding it.

I fiited this into my 110 and it sounds pretty damn good.

Well finally sorted out the insurance but with a very different twist in the story. Spent some further time ringing around and finally got Adrian Flux down to £355.94 which I thought wasn't too bad compared to Lancasters £1400 , I did however give one more company a try "SureTerm". SureTerm have the usual automated nonsense that you need to do before speaking to a human being so I did all that to be put through to sales. Here's where it got very interesting indeed. On connecting to an operator I was greeted by "Shut your f'in mouth mother f'er" some dude saying "I ain't as good at insults as you" followed by "Shut your f'in mouth you spunk monkey". All this with me saying hello, hello etc to inform them that I was actually on the end of the phone. The call quickly cut to the musical interlude of hold music and quickly reconnected me with a very similar sounding operator as the proficient profanity merchant. I stated that was the most unique way I have been greeted as a new customer in my life, I continued to ask for a quote and a very very favourable one was given. I did however email their complaints department who checked the audio of the call, they apologised and discounted my quote further. So to cut to the chase Landy insured for £200 Fully Comp, job done and I will happily allow anyone to swear at me for further discounts in the future

Rang Frank Pickles today to be told that they no longer cover 4 x 4's , anyone know who the hell to insure a modified 110 with ?Spoke to Lancaster , they checked with underwriter, quote came back £1400 , I laughed and put the phone down.Why is it so hard/expensive to insure a Defender ? My modifications are :- 37" Tyres, Wheel Spacers, 2" Suspension Lift, Safari Snorkel and PTO Winch, 3 seater, van sider. Does everyone on here declare all their modifications ?

Thanks for the replies, here's where I am at. The chassis has had 3 coats of a high zinc red oxide primer and the sections that I have painted with hammerite have had 2 coats of the stuff so I am fairly certain that any moisture isn't going to be getting through externally to the chassis etc. The idea with our bitumen products was to apply a final coat to the painted chassis etc as a repellant to any moisture. I have looked at the COSSH sheets for three products 1)Thixotropic Bitumen Based Compound 2)Waxoyl (Aerosol and Paint) 3)Bitumen Sealant Sprays. The three products break down to nearly the same component ingredients , bitumen, white spirits, propane, butane and some weird salt thing for protecting tin cans against internal corrosion. Waxoyl is obviously thixotropic with supposed semi self healing properties, the bitumen compound is also thixotropic and thus has similar properties. The aerosol bitumen is nigh on exactly the same properties as Hammerite Waxoyl aerosols with the only difference being the quantities of the ingredients having slight variations in the percentages of the mixture. All three products have white spirits as a key ingredient. So with the products being virtually the same key ingredients would it be safe to assume that they are indeed capable of the same sealing properties as each other ? Remember i am looking to seal the external elements of the chassis and underside of the Landy and not to fill the chassis cavities which will come at a later date for which I will use a parrafin type gun to apply dinitrol/waxoyl/whatever. The bitumen sprays were used years ago to spray over some mild steel sheets and on scraping back the fine coating from these sprays there is no signs of corrosion from where the spray had coated. The reason I am checking all of this is because I can obtain these bitumen products for next to nothing and of course to ensure I don't go wrecking the good work I put in last year trying to salvage a very rotten chassis , My link my chassis from hell moment. This undersealing malarkey is all new to me so I don't want to go buggering it up. Any more thoughts on this ?

Ok so I have had a look around and seen a few photos on this subject but I just can't make my mind up on the best way to go about this, hence here I am asking for a bit of advice. I work in the asphalt industry (Manufacturing/quarrying) and we have a multitude of products that are bitumen based, this got me thinking whether I could use some of our products to undereal my defender. We stock/sell to our ex-works trade some bitumen sprays that seem to fit the bill for undersealing my Landy, they are flexible, water resistant, dry to touch etc and when tested on a test panel of steel in the workshop they seem to provide a good coating that could be beneficial to my Landy. Here's where my question starts. Exactly what/where do you spray when undersealing etc , what areas should be my main focus, do you cover the wheel arch box sections (I have a raised 110) etc I plan to finish painting the chassis with Red Oxide and Black Hammerite then cover with this bitumen spray to seal it off. All work is going to be done on my drive way so I am aiming to lay down a 15 x 12 Jute sheet to catch any drips when spraying. Any photos or advice would be much appreciated. Ta

You may find this guide useful if your going to have a go at the doors Defender door repair see attached pdf , also the YRM Frames come highly recommended. With a bit of luck it should take about 1 hour per door. Defender Door Repair Project (1).pdf