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greenmeanie

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Everything posted by greenmeanie

  1. Its not really in the same class as a 101 ambi so not a good comparison for a smallish off road capable camper. The TGB20 is almost the same size as a T244 giving it similar storage and access issues with less payload (Only 2 tonnes for a vehicle that size!), the complexity of a 6X6 with similar speed (In similar fashion to the Volvo you can change diff ratios and there are transfer case kits to allow a 58mph cruise.) with worse fuel consumption, less parts support, no power steering, a much worse cab than the Leyland, no standard winch option and you have to build a rear body adding to cost (At the expense of weight the MOD workshop pods are very well built and drop straight on to the T244 with the advantage you can use the truck as a flat bed at other times). The TGB20's only advantage is avoiding extra license requirements if you passed your test long enough ago and a cool factor if that floats your boat.
  2. Posted just now Well here is the spec sheet for the TGB. I looked at the TGB1314 for my brother as it has the large box body making it a more practical camper. https://up.picr.de/36640288zx.pdf 1. The TGB1314 has a Kerb weight of 3360kg (No doubt you can drop this by stripping the ambi and surplus military equipment) and a total weight of 4500kg giving a payload of 1140kg. The 101 ambi has a kerb weight of 2.4T IIRC and a GVW of 3.5T giving a very similar payload capacity. The box for the TGB has approximate external dimensions of 3.35L X 1850 H X 1.9W while the 101 ambi has a rear dimensions 2.35L X 1625H X 2130W giving relative volumes TGB:11.83 101: 8.13 cubic meters. This is rather simplistic as it ignores such things as wheel arches and the aforementioned bulkhead removal on the 101. The TGB has more space but it is not a lot for the extra hassle of a 6X6 and greater vehicle size and with 4 people you will still live a semi outdoor existence. As I think you stated far better to go up to a 7.5 tonner. 2. The TGB1314 max speed in 4th high ratio is 92kph or just over 57mph. The max book speed for the 101 is 79mph which I agree is optimistic but it will cruise at 65mph all day and wind up to 70mph well enough. You can play with diffs on both trucks with the 101 having the advantage that DANA 60 R&P fit giving a wider range of options. You can tune the Volvo engine for more power but everything up to a 4.6 Rover V8 is a simple nut and bolt swap on the 101 giving it the power to cruise at higher speed without feeling stressed. For 4 people the TGB does not offer enough space over the 101 for less performance. The T244 would be a far, far better platform than both.
  3. I think I read about that accident on the HVMF forum. He had made some really good mods making his Stolly far easier to live with. Your man was lucky to survive and I hope made a full recovery. I see plenty of damage to the cargo doors and the supporting frames. Did the hull get twisted as that would probably be the deal breaker as far as resurrection goes over just building the good parts onto another.
  4. I completely understand. I am currently in the process of convincing my wife a Stolly is a perfectly sane thing to buy as a mid life crisis for a retired engineer with three old Rovers already requiring attention. I am making progress as she is down to 'I'll divorce you the day it shows up' which is a marginal improvement on 'No. It will NEVER happen.'
  5. This is an interesting topic which I have been through recently with a brother who fancied an old military vehicle as the base for a camper build for his wife and two dogs. Some comments from his investigations: 1. The Volvo 6X6 is nice but does not offer much more space than the 101 with the added cost and hassle of a 6X6 drive train. On either truck, as one of the others stated, you will be looking at an outdoor toilet and shower facilities. To fit 4 people in a 101 ambi you will most likely have to think of two sleeping inside and a RTT for the others. Plenty of people have done lifting roofs too for more head room. The 101 ambi has a bulkhead between the cab and rear body. Removing this frees up much more useful space for a camper build. A 101 ambi also has an advantage that it can just fit inside a shipping container should you plan any trips to exotic climes. 2. The Volvo is flat out at 65MPH while a 101 can go faster if you are brave. The 55-65 speed limit applies to most ex military vehicles as armies just don't travel fast. If you want a fast camper start on a modern van chassis as FF suggests. The speed limiting factor on my 101 GS has always been the front prop grumble. There are ways to address this but it is not easy. The 101 has the advantage of having a drivetrain that has much in common with the RR meaning speed mods are comparatively simple. My GS has the original drive train with the V8 rebuilt with the higher compression RR pistons and more modern, bigger valve 4.0L heads plus the .9962 transfer gear conversion. It can touch >120KPH but realistically, because of the speed rating of bar grip tyres (I like to live an exciting, unpredictable life) I can cruise at 100KPH all day long. When my wife was young and in love we drove the 101 from AZ to Colorado, LA, Lake Tahoe and other long runs. My camper conversion amounted to throwing a tent and a camp stove in the back. I now have it in Switzerland (Tyre howl and V8 sound goood in the frequent tunnels here) and have driven up to Normandy plus a few other long runs but it does mean they are less frequent. It is slower and less comfortable than any modern car but nicer than running my old 71 IIA. 2. For any decent comfort with an internal toilet and shower a 7.5 tonner is really where it starts size wise. The T244 offers a lot for the money and has good components but you are still limited in speed. If you don't care about speed too much and want something really off the wall I see there are a couple of shop body, ex Swiss Army, CCKW GMCs on milweb right now. Plenty of space and still plenty or parts and support. 3. If you get serious about a 101 camper look up Able Engineering known as 101parts.com. The owner has a VERY sweet 101 ambi camper and has used his experience to provide lots of the parts to keep a 101 running (You will replace the alloy fuel tank sooner or later) and also lots of well engineered mod kits like the aforementioned 4 wheel disc brake kit. Many of the mechanical modifications are as simple as buying a kit. He is good for a good chat about all things 101 and is probably the most knowledgeable person to talk to on the practicalities of doing one. 4. The 101 shares most mechanical parts with either the Series or RR (The brakes are shared with the Volvo oddly enough) and bearings and seals can all be cross referenced to standard items. The chassis is unique but you can get most repair sections and most other 101 specific parts from 101parts. The body is all flat panels so is easy to work with. It really is one of the easier military vehicles to keep running. 4. Those eyes with the shackles on that camper are NOT for recovery. They are also NOT for lifting with a helicopter (Those eyes are in the footwells and have much bigger bolts). The eyes on the front and rear cross members are for tie downs when the truck is transported either by ship or internally by aircraft or, if you are unlucky, to attach it to the pallet when said vehicle is thrown out the back of the aircraft. 5. The 101 ambis were not supplied with a winch but the Nokken can be fitted as all chassis were the same. This winch is very versatile allowing front or rear recovery, 65m of cable and V8 power with multiple speeds through the gearbox. If you want the Nokken you need to keep the LT95 for the PTO which is another reason to keep the V8. 6. If you choose to search for a 101 ambi go and look on the club web pages as they have by far the greatest throughput of vehicles. As to my brother's final choice. He ended up buying a used Jeep Grand Cherokee and a caravan.
  6. Go to your local car paint supplier and they will have the right stuff. From experience aircraft paint stripper works very well too. The trick is to apply and then cover with plastic/cling film and leave for a few hours. You will typically need some mechanical assistance too. A scraper works very well. Once you have removed the loose stuff a grinder with a wire brush will get the tough patches which will still be soft. You will not save the base layer in a condition worth using. Take it back to bare metal, then apply an epoxy primer for bonding and sealing top coat as desired.
  7. British standard 381C colour 285 NATO green. I have also occasionally come across it being described as ‘Leyland number 285’
  8. Just to throw a cure ball into the mix I would consider looking for an Aussie Perentie 110. They are still decent prices, you get a galvy chassis, roll cage in the rear, built in winch in some, largely a dry climate and a much better drivetrain as standard. As a personal thing they also look much more like a proper military vehicle with a cool camo job rather than the standard worn cabbage in the UK. If you are careful you can hunt one down and still have money for the ro ro to get it home. It will take more effort but then it is more unusual. If you go and ask on AULRO I am sure someone will point you in the right direction.
  9. I had a similar idea with a desire to keep the original Series steering wheel and indicator stalks etc. The usual caveats apply to all steering mods as I found out where some places are fine with welded steering columns and in others it is verboten. I had welded my column in my truck when I lived in the US but when I moved the truck to Switzerland I had to remove it and find an alternate solution. I ended up with a solution that can be made with very simple machining and mainly hand tools in the garage. After several years of playing games trying to get a Series column machined down and figuring out how to do splines cheaply it was a simple and cheap solution in the end.I used the upper column from the SIIA. I made a bracket from a piece of 1/4 wall square tube I got cheap as an offcut from the local metal supply place. This was simply shaped using an angle grinder and holes applied with a drill so can be made in your average garage. I added a web for some practice welding but it is not necessary. I then bought a used NTC9068 Defender steering column. For an original appearance in the cab it is important to use this part as it has the 48 splines that match the Late SIIA 3 spoke steering wheel as opposed to the 36 spline version which requires a Defender wheel. I removed the inner column and had the upper bearing land turned down to 22.5mm for its length and the bottom turned down to 19mm for 150mm from the end which was about $30 at the local tractor repair shop. Flaming River sell UJs with 3/4-48 splines to mate to you collapsible link. It all then bolts together. Obviously this was done in the US using a Scout box so your linkage may be simpler using a P38 box in the UK. For what its worth I forgot to mention I used a mounted bearing from McMaster-Carr but you should easily find an equivalent at a UK supplier. https://www.mcmaster.com/5967k82 IMG_1370 IMG_1369 l
  10. I hope UCC have improved their customer service over the last few years. I admit its been about 10 years now but when I bought into the hype I tried buying a 101 canvas from them. I chased them for about a year calling about once a month. The reply from the receptionist was always that 'Steve is very busy' and that he would call back - he never did or e-mail or anything. The overwhelming impression I got was that when they have a big MOD contract you LR hobbiest private sales are simply unimportant. I got fed up chasing them for business they obviously didn't want and took my money elsewhere. Over about 20 years of ownership I have had an AWT canvas that was put together well but rotted out sitting outside in Arizona waiting to be shipped to my current country and it is currently wearing an Exmoor Trim one which has lasted 5 years and is doing fine although, as stated above, the tapes have faded. I now keep the truck garaged and I apply some stone sealer stuff every year or two which keeps the canvas supple and fills any pin holes which goes a long way to extending the life.
  11. I have a Zeus kit on a 101 which IIRC uses the same calliper. Brake pad cross reference numbers are Mintex brake pads code mgb 522 or Quinton Hazel brake pads code BP 105
  12. It could be worse. Here in Switzerland the joke is that the locals would rather change the car than change the oil. If you want to own your own classic car then you are either a good mechanic or a rich man.
  13. How wedded to 24V are you? When it is working it is great but when it breaks it gets expensive. Personally I would use this as the incentive to convert to 12V. The electrical system is not that complicated so you have starter motor, distributor, coil, plugs, heater fan motor, flasher relay, brake warning lamp, wiper motor, washer pump, fuel tank sender, horn and a stack of bulbs which should all be available in Australia. With the exception of some wiring around the batteries the harness remains the same. It may not be significantly cheaper initially but in the long term parts will be easier and cheaper to get hold of. In my case I had the number plate wire short out at the rear of the truck and melt the harness from one end of the truck to the other. Having been bitten by LR ad their crappy attitude to fusing I built an entire new electrical system around a 12 fuse panel from Painless. The fuse panel is now located up in the battery box and the truck is electrically far more reliable than it was when it was a 24V. With a Lucas sport coil and the electronic dizzy from 101Parts it starts on the button and runs like a champ. More than one way to skin a cat so it depends on the direction you take.
  14. World Land Rover Day. It's the international day all traditional Land Rover owners looked at a picture of the new Defender and realised their next 'Land Rover' will be a Land Cruiser or a Jeep.
  15. As stated above Marcus Glenn satin paint, thin it with white spirit but use a fine foam roller to apply. It takes a couple of coats but it comes out very smooth. I did my 101 this way and was very pleased with the results. ,
  16. In the interests of providing some closure with info that may save someone else some grief I have measured the various bearings and seals for the 101 PTO and give some cross reference numbers that should be recognizable to any bearing shop. Item numbers are for the 101 parts book. Item 4 Thrust Bearing, Cross Shaft, 591806 AXK3552 Item 7 Roller bearing 591814 KT354013 Item 13 Roller bearing, cross shaft and output shaft 591807 AXK3047 Item 15 Thrust bearing 591813 KT303513 Item 18 Oil Seal 591819 30X40X7 SKF A10296 Item 31 O-ring 571991 15mm ID 2mm rope dia.
  17. Garry, A bit of easy disassembly today and I have found my problem. The constant mesh gear and shaft assembly is good. My problem is the thrust bearing 591813 (Item 15 in the parts list) that lies between the bevel gear (Item 6) and the cross shaft (Item 9) is completely missing. Fortunately, like you say, I have not used my winch much so there is no scoring on the running surfaces of the mating parts. I see no sign of the race but what made me think a bearing had collapsed was that I had seen some of the rollers coming out in the oil during its annual change. As for root cause analysis. On pulling things apart I note that once you have the bearing support (Item 17) and its shims off the output shaft can be pulled out the housing. My suspicion is that at some time in its life the seal has been changed and the shaft pulled partially or completely out which has allowed that first thrust bearing to fall out of the stack. The mechanic has pushed the shaft back in and there has been nothing external to say that the bearing is now gone. This accounts for the excessive free play in the output gear end float.
  18. That's quite embarrassing. I have been through that manual a thousand times over a couple of decades working on the 101 and never found that page. Admittedly my manual is a knackered old thing with the page tips all curled on each other but the index exists for a reason. There are lots of military parts in the standard dealer system but not this PTO. I've already asked at Blanchards and Able and they don't have things like bearings and shims. The bearings will be COS so a bit of disassembly and some quality time with a set of callipers will sort those out. Shims might be more difficult but I'll have a chat with the local bearing shop and see what they can do. Thanks for your help Garry.
  19. Does anyone here have any documents on the PTO assembly overhaul. No mention of this assembly I made in the 101 repair and overhaul manual. I have the Nokken winch drawing and it does not cover the PTO. The only document that makes any mention of it is the part book which gives you a series of numbers that are not recognized by LR parts dealers. I have a bearing that has collapsed in there which I want to replace but with it being a bevel gear drive I would like some idea of permissable end float as this appears to be 1-2mm right now.
  20. As I hate to leave a thread unfinished here is what I found out and did to complete my job. I bought a Defender steering column NTC968 which has 48 splines at both ends and is 816mm long. The 48 spline version fits a 3 spoke, late SIIA steering wheel which means you can keep the original horn and Tex magna indicator talk. I stripped the inner column out and had the upper bearing land turned down to 22.5mm for its length and the bottom end turned don to 19mm for 150mm from the end. IMG_134, At this point it slides into the Series outer column and the mounted bearing although the splined end is now a couple of inches further down. A Flaming River FR1727DD 3/4-48/1"DD universal joint adapted it to my original collapsible link and job done. The components were comparatively cheap and the machining simple so I am much happier than trying to get splines cut by a machine shop. The only minor thing is that the original UJ was protected from crud in the wheel arch as it sat up behind the splash guard shroud. The new UJ now projects past the shroud so I may make an additional piece to protect it. 109 steering linkage 4 109 steering linkage 2 109 steering linkage 9 That's it. Power steering that keeps the interior of my truck looking stock SIIA without welded modifications.
  21. The idea is to use the Defender inner column mounted in the old Series outer column. Assuming the whole plan works out the extra length of the inner column will be down into the engine bay. It is one reason why I have been going to all this hassle instead of just putting in a Defender column and wheel. For the record, do you know how long a Defender column is? I think it is approx. 28 1/2 inches but I could be wrong.
  22. Interesting. I have a 48 spline Defender column on the way which I plan to strip the inner column from and I think (Maybe I hope) it should adapt to my series outer column fairly easily. If so that will be a lot cheaper than paying a machine shop to cut down the scroll to what I need, add a spline and heat treat it. That, of course, is plan B if the Defender column won't work. I'll post up what I end up with.
  23. Great info. Thank you guys for your help. Hi ho hi ho its off to ebay I go.
  24. Arjan, you are correct. As stated the spline to mount the steering wheel changed at various times and body styles between 36 spline and 48 spline. The Late Series IIA steering wheel is 48 spline and as far as I can tell should mount just fine to steering column upper NTC9068. The spline I don't know much about, but I don't think changed over production, is the universal joint end of the column which I want to confirm is 19mm-48. If the spline is what I believe I can get a U-joint to adapt to what I already have which fits all the holes etc to pass through the bodywork to the PS box while the LR collapsible link won't fit the existing set up. I am fairly sure I can strip the inner column from the Defender assembly and make it work with my series outer column so I can keep all the original horn function and mounting etc giving me a comparatively cheap nut and bolt solution thus avoiding the whole machine shop issue. I'd really appreciate confirmation of the spline on the lower end of the steering column.
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