greenmeanie

I have a NADA 109 that I had done in the US when I rebuilt it. I had the rear tub done and the front floor and tunnel. It kills a bit of sound due to vibration and it wears well and is much better than any of the roll or spray can versions. Like most things prep is everything. Extensive scufing is required for good adhesion. I took my tub back to bare metal and then they hit it with a rotary sander. Only thing to remember is that it sprays over everything and you have to go back to a dealer for any touch up so I'd recommend stripping the interior as much as possible of things that can be demounted before spraying as you won't get at them after . Also think about things like locker lids as they may not fit well with the extra thickness of the coating. Masking of areas not to be sprayed will be key too. I'd also be cautious about spraying it on steel parts as, like most coatings, if you lose any adhesion and get water in there it'll promote the tin worm. Galvy everything first. Not sure I'd want to do it for a living as, going by the place I used, everything in your shop is going to be covered in a thick layer of the stuff.

You wouldn't happen to be referring to the three hands, stacking all the shims, bearings and gears and hoping it doesn't fall out when you remove the dummy shaft method of assembling the TC gears would you?

If you're up to ordering from the UK: NKrecovery Its mainly 101 stuff but as stated above its only the input shaft, bellhousing and the TC gear ratio that changes.

Thanks for that. Now to find a decent seal supplier in France Switzerland.

Can anyone tell me the shaft diameter of a series gearbox mainshaft where the reat main seal sits? I need to order a seal here and I have the OD, the width but don't have the shaft dia. I believe it should be 1.953" or 2.000" but just want to make sure. I could take everything to pieces to measure it up but I'd rather have the seal here before I get into the job. Its not a standard gearbox so I can't just order the LR part number.

If your up to paying the shipping Great Basin Rovers in SLC in Utah sells the bolts and bushings to go with them. You might have to call or e-mail them to find out though.

Not to belabour a point but check pages 12-13

Look for 3M Windo Weld ribbon sealer. It comes in rolls and you have a range of diameters to choose from. It's designed specifically for this job, is easy to work with and does the job well.

Other than a few prototypes and preprod trucks all 101s were built from 72 to 78 with major production occuring in 75-77. All the vehicles used the same pre76 design engine with the only difference being 12V vs 24V electrics. It may only have entered service in Australia in 78 but it was but the design and the engine specified for it was created back before 1972.

The heads changed in '76 to have bigger valves so your 101, 3.5L has the smaller valves with more restriction and at some point they skimmed the heads or at least reduced the combustion chamber volume to account for the move to composite gaskets. After that you're about right. If you go over to that V8 forum you'll find lots and lots of discussion on running 4.6L engines on carbs.

For what its worth with SU here are a couple of topics from ove ron the V8 forum http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11201 http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11140 They seem to imply that the 1.75 su carbs are not a big restriction on deveoping power from which I'd make the wild deduction that the ZS are not too bad either for a low tune engine like described here.

WHen I redid the engine (Stock 3.5 block, post 76 heads for bigger valves, new cam and RR pistons for a bump in compression) in my 101 I looked at fueling. What I dound is that the neeedle choice for the ZS 175 carbs is pretty poor and the other options avaiable were just as bad as the existing 2AY but maybe in other directions. I modified the dash pots to use SU needles shortened by 1/4" which have a huge range allowing for the tuning you need. Incidently using the SU needle means they are far more tolerant of misalignment which tends to create sticky needles in the Zeniths. Having done that I borrowed a wide band O2 sensor and took the truck for a few runs to go through the rev and load range for the engine and using the lambda values could see where I needed more or less fuel. I matched this to the table of needles in the Haynes book on ZS/SU carbs and bracketed my needs from there. All this is to point out that if you want to do it properly you can't just drop a needle in and hope. Its a bit of a science experiment and you'd be better getting over to the SU needle range to give the options you need to get it right.

Bill, I lived in Phoenix Arizona and summer ambient ranged from 110-120°F. It was thrashed up and down the I10 from Phoenix to Tucson and back for 1000miles every week through sun rain and dust storms. Now I'll confess that the Roverdrive got VERY hot but it hung together for a good while. I did spend a lot on oil changes though and played with synthetic for a while which did help although the gearbox did feel more notchy as I think it was just a bit too slippery for the synchros. That EP90 got to smell REALLY bad after a month. Adding the finned bottom plate for the TC does make quite a difference in temperature and is a must for running the truck hard. Then again, on many of those very long runs on the extremely boring I10 I spent a good amount of time designing an oil cooler system and pump to add to the TC to keep her cool. Now I'm in the procvess of finishing up a Chevy 292/NP435/series TC powered SIIA 109 for those long hauls across Europe to get back home to Scotland. No, fuel economy is not a concern.

Sounds like you need to read ANSI B92 to understand your spline fits. Some comments The torque on over run is far less than take up of drive from stopped. Vibration will undo the nut far better than your cycling theory. You should consider how you applied counter force to achieve what you think was the correct torque. The further up the drivetrain you jambed it he further out your applied torque will be. Each shaft and joint acts like a spring and you have to tighten against all of those plus the running torque before you get to the locking torque. Consider that running torque accounts for over 80% of applied torque and it doesn't take much to get it wrong. Unless you actually managed to defrom those few threads at he joint the nut will not actually lock and now you are hoping that loctite will do the job. You should also understand that by applying the loctite you have changed the torque requirement for the nut. It typically reduces the coefficient of friction reducing the running torque meaning the torque you have applied is more likely to have achieved the locking torque than before. Of course, you could have also damaged the threads this way with too much torque but hey, its all a guess unless you know how to play the game properly. If you really want to prevent a reoccurrence of the problem. Clean up the threads, follow proper torque rules to tighten the nut, mark the nut relative to the coupler and apply the set screws to mark their location on the circumference and take it all back off. Now apply a small flat bottom hole for a blunt tip set screw or a standard drill bit for a pointed set screw to create a bore a couple of mm deep. Now retorque the nut to the original marks and put the set screws in with a little loctite. She will NEVER come loose again.

<p>No washer</p> <p><a href="http://roamerdrive.com/pdfs/ssparts.pdf">http://roamerdrive.com/pdfs/ssparts.pdf</a></p> <p> </p> <p>I used to design rotating equipment and we would run 200KVa gennies up and down the rpm range through full load to zero power transients up to 27000rpm with nothing more than correct torque and typically two to three stakes to hold the shaft nuts in place. In this case you can't support he opposite end of the shaft so you can't stake without running the risk of brinneling the bearing on the mainshaft. Loctite is not very reliable unless you get all the oil out of the joint which can be quite difficult, lock tabs are out because of the depth of the bore.</p> <p> </p> <p>Set screws with a hardness greater than the nut and the right point to bite into the nut will work almost as well as staking although the tightening sequence to get it truly straight is a pain. In this case, however, I would be tempted to loctite the set screws as the coupling is easily removed and properly cleaned in the <strike>dishwasher</strike>, sorry parts washer.</p> <p> </p> <p>I had no more play in the splines than the stock LR transfer gear so it sounds like you have something out of tolerance there. As the engine turns clockwise (Viewed from front) it means viewed from the rear the shaft turns anticlockwise. This means the use of a conventional RH thread is correct on the end of the shaft. As a result your ratcheting effect should also come into play as power is applied from take off and most torque is used in acceleration from rest as opposed to power on/of transients once the vehicle is moving so it, in theory, would ratchet tighter rather than looser. Now, of course, if your set screws are not biting hard enough to prevent this they will move and wear a groove in the nut and that opens a whole new kettle of fish.</p>

The point being you have a worn spline on your gearbox yet think it is the resposibility of the Overdrive manufacturer to include notes in their manual to deal with your problem. The Roverdrive design works so why make your problem their issue? If you have play in the spline it will generate other problems in time beyond just the nut coming loose so fix the root cause you have identified rather than bodging it.

I had well over 100K of very hard and very,very hot miles on my Roverdrive before I managed to kill it. Never ever had a problem with that mainshaft nut coming loose though I did take the time to torque it properly.

For what its worth I used the knackered old inner column out of my 101 inside the stock SIIA column with a mounted bearing on the end of that. A simple 90° cut out of some box section with the two hole patterns and I am done. Looks completely stock inside and takes a UJ on the bottom end. No welding required. The 101 is the same as series IIA at least and is longer which makes cutting the scroll off and adding flats easy. Not sure it helps but if you have 101 friends ask as corrosion and failure of the scroll on them is a common problem. Start hinting that they need a steering rebuild.

The flow will take care of it. On Land Rovers I've bled 101 brakes plus a few NADA 109 drums which are both the famous twin leading shoe design for the last decade or so using nothing more than the rerouted lines and pedal with never any hassle. I have also filled and bled the hydraulic system of a few hundred new build excavators/diggers using this method and the cooling oil in the APU generator on your beloved Boeing 737 is done this way too. Lets just say its a well known method in industry and having the bleed at the top isn't really a problem as long as you get the flow. The simple solution to the PWDA valve is to let gravity run fluid through the system make sure you have fluid on both sides of the piston before applying pressure. Removing it as you say also works but if it ain't broke I don't fix it. You also have to be a little careful as in some locations such a mod from OEM can fail your inspection and, of course, insurance companies love to know about such changes.

"The problem with bleeding the front brakes is not the pipework itself - you will merely be adding to the total length by modifying it. The problem lies in the design of the slave cylinders; their pipe and bleed ports are half way up the sides of the cylinders rather than at the top, so any air above the ports tends to stay put." You have an overly simplistic undertanding of hydraulics as you are only considering a static condition. Google 'Entrainment'. When you pump the pedal you achieve turbulent flow in the cylinder which mixes the oil and air drawing the bubbles out the port. The position of the bleed port in the cylinder is pretty academic. The problem is because there is only so much fluid that can move with each pedal stroke. With the OEM routing the air may move out the top cylinder into the line leading to the bottom cylinder but may not get all the way through so when the pedal is released it makes its way back up to the top cylinder. Swapping the bleed nipple to the upper cylinder means that any air that gets shifted into the line will naturally make its way further through the system towards the bleed nipple.

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Rocky Mountain sell 1/2UNF U-bolts for their kits. You may have to drill out the holes in your mount plates as IIRC they are slightly smaller than 1/2 inch. They don't advertise them as seperate items but I have called them and had no problem obtaining an axle set.

Th edeep bronze green is the paint finish applied by Land Rover at the factory. At one time in the 50's this was the colour of British Army vehicles. The flat NATO green was applied by the army to hide it. The Army likes to apply a lot of this at every opportunity so you'll usually find many layers on the outside. If you are restoring the vehicle with the flat camo paint it is a good idea to keep a gloss coat paint over the primer before the camo layer. This is because the flat paint is rather permeable to water which can promote corrosion. A gloss base coat acts as a sealer against this.

That plate is for Pascal Hidber in Gland. He is an independent specialist and not an official franchised dealer. Well that is at least now but who knows in the past. They are still in business and the owner speaks reasonable English and French. If you want to know the history behind the vehicle call him. It is Switzerland so they WILL have paperwork. The official importer for Switzerland is Emil Frey who are along in Nyon so this may not be the 1st 90 imported to Switzerland but only Mr. Hidber can elaborate on that.

Yes they are. I don't have part numbers for here as I just switched countries. Measure the stub shaft dia., hub bore dia and bore depth and take it to your local bearing supply place. They will set you up. I typically use the SKF catalogue to find a part number they can cross reference from. SKF