voevod

I'd certainly be worried about those symptoms, but is it even possible to mate the box up to the engine with that bad a misalignment? The end of the splined shaft goes into a very tight aperture with a brass(?) spacer/washer, there is literally nowhere else for it to go, unless you mean they may have broken the middle of the friction plate. I also changed clutch recently and it also took me an age to remember to turn the crank to align the splines. If they somehow carelessly misaligned one of the props when putting everything back together, would that imbalance not cause a juddering in the transfer box? Having changed two or three Defender clutches, I just can't see how it's possible to fit it that badly.

Yes, that's a great help. I don't remember seeing a seal for the piston. It is a new slave cylinder, which turns out not to have been tightened on properly by a 'helper'.

Discovered a leak from this this morning. After carefully taking it out (I forgot to put cable tie around push rod end of fork), the internals all fell out. Can somebody tell me in what order the components fit back into the cylinder?.As I see it, spring first then piston (flat side outermost and making contact with push rod). I don't want to put it back in wrongly and have it drop it's guts inside the bellhousing. Cheers.

If it had been a Tdi, I would definitely advise changing the fork, but doesn't the Td5 have a cast-iron fork? I would go for a Valeo clutch, as that's what they have when made and I would replace the bearing.

Sorted now. Spool had disengaged from the fork underneath it.

Having changed clutch recently, I had this housing off for ease of use. Now that everything's back together, I can't select any gear. I had exactly the same problem the last time and remember being told the 5th gear spool guide hadn't engaged. What does this connect to? It's an LT77 box incidentally.

Will order from them on Monday. Cheers again guys.

I've run AT2s for a couple of years now and am quite disappointed by them to be honest, their grip in the wet was never very good. I also have quite bad wear on my nearside front, but after measuring drag link (is it 924mm?), I'm going to attempt the tracking with the string method as shown on here somewhere.

Oh well, if that's the way the belts have to be, I'll put up with it. Yes, clutch is slipping alarmingly badly now, think I'll go for the 130 item as it does get worked hard. I'm just wondering now if the problem I had with excessive black smoke is the engine working much harder than the clutch and revving much higher than the clutch can cope with. Cheers for the advice guys. VB, where did you get yours, they don't seem to be very competitively priced!

Yep, I vaguely remember having to swap a pulley to make everything run. The angle between water pump and steering pump is so obtuse that if the tension is loosened even by a fraction, the water pump pulley doesn't turn. Just thought it might be worthwhile getting the belts back into the Defender pattern. As for the clutch slip, it was only a matter of time. It was an H/D one that came out of a blue box, but to it's credit, it's been in two engines now. So...Valeo or Borg & Beck?

Sorry, yes, it's a Disco engine I've transplanted into a 110. I retained the inlet and turbo from the Defender's engine for economic reasons.

While investigating a problem I have when accelerating hard, i.e. the engine seems to rev higher than the speed it needs to turn the wheels, almost as if I'm wheelspinning or the clutch is still dipped, I noticed that instead of having the belts in a water pump/crank/alternator pattern,for some reason I have the belts as so- water pump/crank/steering pump with the alternator belted to the crank. Could anyone identify the problems this may cause?

Cheers western, will check in the morning, although I'm sure the yellow unit doesn't have a multiplug in it..I wondered what that was!When I put in some gauges recently, I omitted to fit in-line fuses to their positive feed, would this have anything to do with this?Thanks again

It was the black ribbed plastic box bolted to the dash rail inside the binnacle western.I just unplugged it,but still have no dipped beam.Is there another relay or resistor under the bonnet somewhere?The reason I ask is that when I switch on dipped,I can hear a relay buzzing,but it's not inside the binnacle,perhaps on the other side of bulkhead?The middle tin relay under fuseblock does get quite warm,but I don't know the significance of this!

Well,having taken off both the binnacle and steering wheel surround,I'm satisfied that there are no loose or corroded connections anywhere,although the brass nut holding the headlamp switch in place was loose.Have swapped about the tin relays under fuseblock all to no avail.Have disconnected dim-dip relay at top inside binnacle and checked wiring in there also.Not quite sure what I've missed now!