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MattH

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Everything posted by MattH

  1. What is the internal diameter of the fuel supply pipe? When I installed my webasto I "borrowed" some pipe from work that I thought would do the trick. It primed up eventually but never seemed to get to full burn. I replaced the whole run of pipe with some other pipe and hey presto. On my webasto I have an LED in the cab that is linked to the pump so I can see the rate it is pumping at, your two minutes fits in with the maximum rate of pumping ie it has gone through the preheat and is going into full power, generally points to fuel starvation. It will pump out diesel fume when it shuts down, its unburnt fuel that is making its way through. mine does the same when you turn off the engine during a full power burn cycle. On mine (Disco2) the pump is at the rear with a dip tube into the tank and no return. Cant remember the diameters of the pipes I used but can have a measure tonight if required. Would agree that easiest check would be pull the pump and using some short pipes run it from a jerry can or other container to prove it does actually work on full burn. hope that helps
  2. I have exactly the same 6 bongs when the ignition goes on. Mine started following a problem with the alarm system. It initially refused to accept any of the key fobs and after finally getting it all back working the bongs started. I had done a backup of the original BCU setting when I first got the nanocom but that didnt fix it either. Have been living with it for over a year now "BONG " and no other faults are showing. Would be great to find out what caused it, as per Gadget above I thought it was to do with the seatbelts but I drew up a list of all the possible combinations and worked through them all to no avail. Matt
  3. Mine did this a while ago. It just stopped recognising the fob after locking it. Unfortunately I couldnt open the door using EKA due to where it was parked. After triggering the alarm getting in through the boot , I tried for hours to reset all the security setting but without sucess. Eventually I tried locking the car up without nanocom connected, unlocking using EKA and then starting the engine. After turning the engine off I then reconnected Nanocom and reset the security to basic levels. It seems that any fault in the alarm system ( including the alarm triggering) locks it down. Nanocom will write new setting and they seem to be accepted when you re-read them but the ECU doesent act on them. Actually starting the engine seems to allow the communication to begin again and synchronise everything. It drove me potty for about 4 hours chasing my tail before retried the EKA thing.
  4. oopps, forgot to say its for a TD5.
  5. Does anyone know the internal diameter of the heater supply and return hoses (the ones that go through the bulkhead)??? Hopefully getting my webasto engine heater plumbed in this weekend, and need to get the pipe before I go hacking into the system as its a long way to buy some on a push bike thanks a lot Matt
  6. After much Googling and pondering over Rave and Microcat discovered that the Webasto heaters are normally mounted in the space between the ABS block and the main bulkhead, exactly where my secondary battery is! Spent the last week modifying the battery tray to move it more towards the wing by a few inches to allow the FBH to fit in a vertical position between the battery and the turbo/ exhaust. All the googling said that all the Discos were wired for the FBH but initially I couldnt find any evidence of the looms or plugs. After forking out nearly £20 for all the necessary plugs I found the LR originals taped up inside the loom behind the ABS and PS reservoir. Next few jobs is to run the fuel line (hope the plug for the fuel pump is somewhere underneath!) make an exhaust, plumb it in, enable it by Nanocom and ENJOY Knowing my luck summer will be here before that happens though. I will post some pictures after next weekend if anyones interested. Matt
  7. Hi all, been lurking for a while but not really posted before. I recently bought a Webasto Thermotop C for fitting into the engine bay of the Disco TD5. As far as I can tell from the RAVE discs it is fitted somewhere on the passenger side near the turbo. Am I on the right track? Would anyone who has one fitted, either original kit or aftermarket fitment be able to post any pictures? My plans at the minute are to get it running as a supplementary heater ie to boost warm up when the engine is running first of all, then, when I have proved its working well either add a timer or bodge a remote control from an old mobile phone. So any hints or tips will be greatly appreciated. whenever I get round to fitting it I will try and take plenty of pics as it might be of interest to others. Thanks in advance. Matt.
  8. Hi all, I am planning a trip up the East coast of Australia in a rented 4x4 during January 2009. Setting out from Brisbane and arriving in Cairns about 2 weeks later. Now SWMBO isnt one for serious adventure stuff ( no outback travel ) but is quite happy camping. I have found a place that will rent out camping gear for your trip but it only has an Esky icebox and not a fridge. Question is how do I keep the Esky cool? the only cool boxes I have come across in the UK used an icepack you freeze at home and throw inside but it only kept things cool for a few hours. Im guessing that they are a bit more efficient down under because they wouldnt want warm beer Do campsites sell icepack things or do they have ice dispensers? any suggestions of things to do and see whilst we are there gladly received. Cheers Matt
  9. same here!. not yet got the pump to fit because I am still trying to work out where it will go! I think I could fit it where the ACE pump would go (mines a Disco) but the fact I need the car as a dailly driver is stopping me taking the plunge and going for it. There seems to be a lot of things that would need rerouting and moving to make it fit. Up to now I havent seen or heard of any OBA onto TD5
  10. I emailed Nanocom yesterday morning about the bug and asked how to set the ride height and got this respose later in the day. Hi, I already fix this bug, the output was all shifted by 1. To set the height you have to use raise left and right or lower right and left to reach the position, after that you have to do the store heights function. It can happen that this function fail, please retry until it doesn't show any error. when the sore heights is performed you must turn off the ignition and wait more than 60 seconds, when you turn the ignition on again the new heights should be reached by the car. Regards Mattia Fast reply, excellent service and a great piece of kit Now to learn how to use the rest of it by trial and error Matt
  11. Hi all, just got the unlock codes for the discovery SLABS on my new nanocom with firmware 2.01 already in. I have had a quick play and noticed that the section where you can activate the warning lamps etc dont function as they should! think its in the inputs section of the SLABS, if I try and test the ABS warning lamp on the dash by turning it on using the nanocom or the PC it makes the traction control lamp light instead. I think there are a few others that are wrong but havent had time to check them all, when I set the ABS pump running is scared me silly Anyone else with this firmware noticed any problems? I will have a proper look tommorow and try and log some of the errors before emailing nanocom. is it just me or is there no decent instructions in how to use it PS I am guessing I could increse the ride height of the air springs at the back a little by tweakiing the settings but cant read the file? any suggestions. Thanks
  12. I have dual batteries in my D2 for the mains inverter and all the extra lights etc, I made up a tray to fit on the nearside between the ABS pump and the bulkhead, width is limited by the turbo heat shield as well. Its a tight squeeze, I bought a cheap battery from the local motor factors that would just fit and made the tray to match. If I still have the pictures I will post them up tommorow (assuming I can work out how to post them!) Matt
  13. Well checked the VIN and its a 2Axxxxxx registered end of 2001. I have only had it for about 14 months, used to be only a problem when really cold but over the last month had changed to doing it at up to 5`c seems that above this temp its OK????? I was thinking of buying a Nanocom in the future as I prefer to do as much as I can on my Disco without resorting to using a garage, will the nanocom be able to tell me if the map has been updated? and if it hasnt can I do it myself? From what I can tell the nanocom could also help pinpoint if any other sensors are dodgy, all this ECU stuff is new to me but rather than stick my head in the sand I had better get out there and learn as isnt going to go away Have pulled the relay and given it a clean but this morning it was about 9`c so started brilliantly. Guess this take a while to sort Thanks again Matt
  14. When you say clean the contacts on the relay do you mean the spade type contacts which plug into the loom or take the top off the relay and clean the switching faces? Will whip the relay out tonight and give it a once over with some contact cleaner. From memory its registered in late 2001 (will check VIN tonight ) what can go wrong with the early 2002 models? Bet its expensive whatever it is!! Thanks again, keep the ideas coming Matt
  15. Cheers for the replies so far It starts OK most times BUT if the temp drops a little (to approx 5`c or below) then it doesnt start easily. Fires on what sounds like 2 or 3 cylinders and runs rough for a few seconds or stalls. If it runs rough it will clear within a few seconds, when it stalls though it needs to be kept on the starter for a few seconds or a good push of the go pedal. Once going it will be fine for the rest of the day! I checked the glow plugs were getting power when these symtoms started and tried leaving it about 20 seconds after the light went out before starting but problem is still there. Done quite a bit of reading on this and have already replaced the manifold temp and pressure sensor, which fixed its sluggishness but not the starting issue. Next area after glowplugs will be the injector seals Recently did an oil and fuel filter change but it was doing it occasionally before that. Away on holiday for a few days soon so I will buy a deep socket and yank them out when I get back. Yep I know that horrible feeling when you hear the plug make a sort of crack noise and it comes out without its tip. In mine it was stuck inside the head by coke, cue head off and no car for a weeek Any other suggestions or ideas on the starting issue ?????????? Cheers Matt
  16. Hi all, just wanted to pick the collective brains before I start testing and changing the glowplugs on my 2001 Disco2. Had a look around the Technical archives and done some searching but drawn a blank. Had a bad experience of the tip snapping off while changing them on my 300tdi and dont want to repeat that! Rave doesnt mention how to take off the wiring, tried pulling one off and it wont budge! im guessing its like a spark plug top? it looks really tight down there, not much room for people with big hands so what do you suggest? I am going to spray some WD40 around them tonight so they have a bit of time to soak just in case they are seized. thanks in advance Matt
  17. Best way to check is to wind down drivers window, make sure engine is on, lean into car and press the button until it bongs and the icon will flash. Watch it go up, I dont remember how far it goes but you can see it if you look around the wheelarch area. Once its up the lamp stays lit. Once its up it will stay there even if you open the door althought the door needs to be shut before it will lower back to normal height. Or leave it up until the next time you drive it, once over about 10mph it lowers itslef back to normal. (yes it will go up even without any load in it) I dont know how much the remotes are to lower the suspesion but I think buying the remote is only part of it, think they need programming Matt
  18. Hi and welcome form a relative newbie myself. The button on the dash to raise the suspension will only work when ALL the doors are closed. Not long after I got my D2 I loaded it up with paving slabs and thought I would test the raised suspension, pressed the button and nothing happened After a mad 10 minutes checking fuses, frantically pressing the button and taking a bit of weight out it occured to me that the back passenger door wasnt shut properly, slammed that shut, pressed it again and up it went Matt
  19. Thanks, I will check it out this weekend, If i get one from the main stealers and replace it will it leak fluid everywhere and need bleeding? I have an old copy of EPC which shows the switch on a T piece not on the master cylinder with a part number MSK100070 I will give them a ring this afternoon and see if they are a stock item. Matt
  20. Cheers Bogmonster, how can I check it? I think i know where it is but is it a simple switch I can test with a continuity tester whilst someone presses the clutch? Thanks again Matt
  21. Hi all, question for you. the throttle response on my 2001 D2 TD5 can sometimes be described as jerky. Travel in stop start traffic is a pain in the a** . Its impossible to trickle along, a gentle press of the pedal results in a sudden surge and as soon as you release it the car slows really quick resulting in almost a kangaroo. BUT it doesnt do it every day, hasnt done it for 3 days then started again yesterday. When its behaving like this if you rev it(out of gear) and relese the revs die back immediately and it seems to misfire at tickover for a second before smoothing out. So far I have checked loom for oil (none at the rocker cover or ecu) and changed the airflow meter. Any suggestions because its beginning to ruin whats otherwise a great car. cheers Matt.
  22. Thanks Guys for the info, had a look at the wiring loom coming out of the rocker cover, nice and dry so im off to the main stealers this week to get a new pedal and pot. ( I suppose I had better sit down before he tells me the price though!!!!! ) Cheers Matt
  23. Hi all, First post on this forum I bought a D2 (late 2001 model) a week ago and have noticed there seems to be about 2cm of travel in the accelerator pedal before the revs start to pick up. I didnt notice it when I had a test drive probably because you always over compensate for a strange clutch etc. There also seems to be delay after this point before the revs build and a bit of shunting at low speeds. Are they all related somehow? I used to run a Disco 1 and have a series3 swb so the mechanical bits arnt a problem but the electrical bits on the TD5 are completely alien to me. I have read about oil running down the wiring loom, can I just disconnect it or is there a special method to do it like disconnect battery and stand on head whilst whislting dixie. Thanks in advance for your help Matt
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