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Mudmonkey

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Mudmonkey last won the day on June 28

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About Mudmonkey

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    Yorkshire

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  1. Bulkhead wise, any bulkhead will fit, if you use a TD5 one you will get the newer dash, heater etc if you buy it complete but all can be retrofitted to an earlier bulkhead anyway. Yes you will need a R380 era (300tdi-td5) transmission tunnel and seatbox to fit over the gearbox and there is a spigot piece that fits between the transmission tunnel and bulkhead too that you'll need. You'll also need the floor plates specific to that era. Tub wise, all depends on what you want to do with it when its finished. I only fitted the 130 tub to prove to myself that it could be done really, it's not the most versatile configuration if you need to carry people around or keep stuff dry whereas Dave's has seats in the back, dry storage and more room to recline your seat.
  2. I thought the rust on my discovery shell was bad! It's definitely the way to give a new lease of life to a good solid discovery chassis and running gear, great to see another 100" project getting started. Seats wise, I have the smart car seats in my 100" and I've managed to get the passenger one to tip forward for access to the battery. Just need to get the seat heaters wired in now!
  3. We use these trailed vehicles at work although not in the UK, mainly VW UPs or Toyota Aygos. The cars are converted at a specialist and they use this braking setup. https://www.demco-products.com/rv-towing/supplemental-brakes/stay-in-play-duo I'll let you guys decide whether it would be legal to use in the UK or not, but I'd say its the same or similar setup used by most camper van towing conversions you see on the roads.
  4. I rebuilt my hinges using an M8 bolt as the pin. They were pretty much scrap as they were so sloppy. I drilled through the top and middle parts of the knuckle to 8mm and tapped the bottom part of the knuckle to m8. Cut the head off an M8 bolt and slotted the non-threaded end so i could use a screwdriver to screw it in. I had to shim them slightly with nylon washers as there was still some up/down movement but it saved me buying 4 new hinges. Doors seem to line up ok so I'm happy enough. Remember when you're removing the pins, they only come out one way!
  5. Thanks for the positive comments guys, it’s been a labour of love over the past two years. I might get a build thread up to try and inspire myself to finish it off. The rear crossmember finishes flush with the end of the tub so I am just going to get a couple of plastic box section end caps to cap off the chassis rail ends and leave it as-is
  6. The frame isn’t all that amazing. Just a piece of box section with the end of the defender outriggers welded on to pick up on the rear bulkhead/tub mounts and locate the tube of the rock sliders. This mounts to two chassis points with rubber engine mounts. The rock sliders are then integral parts to the frame, mounting to the rear box section and the bulkhead, as well as picking up on the discovery body mounts using the same rubber engine mounts. I’ll upload a few random pictures I have below.
  7. A 130 hi cap tub and defender cab fit perfectly on a 100” discovery chassis, just needs a frame to pick up on the body mounts to avoid any cutting of the chassis at all. I think I would have attempted to build it on a discovery 2 chassis if I didn’t already have the discovery 1.
  8. Thought this picture might be of interest to this build? Obviously this is a 130 hi cap so your door should work a bit better than theirs I don't have any more information apart from the picture although it looks to be made from an ex-SSE/utility top like below, I'm not sure if they made these in a 110 variant either.
  9. I re-covered mine with faux alcantara suede from ebay, I've also done the bottom dash section like Ian as the vinyl was ruined on both section.
  10. As above, change oil and filter but sometimes this can do more harm than good if the oil hasn't been changed for a long time. If that doesn't fix it its probably cheaper to take a punt at a few second hand gearboxes than send it away to be repaired, there's not a lot that is easily repaired in them at home either. http://www.cowdery.org.uk/zf.php
  11. They're made of the same flexible type of plastic as the originals I think, they feel the same anyway.
  12. Apologies for the bad picture. Your original front arches will have a bit which bridges the gap in the picture between the new arch and the arch liner, you need to cut this off and sandwich it between the extended arch and the wing.
  13. Thanks Mo, its taken just over a year to get to this stage but all seems to be coming together now. I should really do a build thread but there's more pics here
  14. I've just fitted a set of these to my project, I've only gone for the fronts as I have a hi cap tub so standard width arches should be ok on the rear. As said above, they fit into the normal holes under the wing using the usual trim clips with a bit of enlarging of the holes in the arch, you do have to cut up your old front arches to bridge the gap between arch and arch liner, or buy a cheap pair of arches to chop up if you want to keep your old ones.
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