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Mudmonkey last won the day on June 28 2019

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  1. You're correct Ross, from the Ashcroft website https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/automatic-gearboxes/zf4hp22.html
  2. Get to the bottom of the starting problem on the 100" (only thing left is the injectors) and get it used and find out what needs changing on it! It needs two new props as they don't extend very easily, extra sound proofing in the cab, stereo system, wiring in the heated screen, seats and other creature comforts etc etc. Then possibly build a type of removable camper in the back and do some travelling. I also have a fibreglass mini minus shell to build at some point...
  3. Bulkhead wise, any bulkhead will fit, if you use a TD5 one you will get the newer dash, heater etc if you buy it complete but all can be retrofitted to an earlier bulkhead anyway. Yes you will need a R380 era (300tdi-td5) transmission tunnel and seatbox to fit over the gearbox and there is a spigot piece that fits between the transmission tunnel and bulkhead too that you'll need. You'll also need the floor plates specific to that era. Tub wise, all depends on what you want to do with it when its finished. I only fitted the 130 tub to prove to myself that it could be done really, it's not the most versatile configuration if you need to carry people around or keep stuff dry whereas Dave's has seats in the back, dry storage and more room to recline your seat.
  4. I thought the rust on my discovery shell was bad! It's definitely the way to give a new lease of life to a good solid discovery chassis and running gear, great to see another 100" project getting started. Seats wise, I have the smart car seats in my 100" and I've managed to get the passenger one to tip forward for access to the battery. Just need to get the seat heaters wired in now!
  5. We use these trailed vehicles at work although not in the UK, mainly VW UPs or Toyota Aygos. The cars are converted at a specialist and they use this braking setup. https://www.demco-products.com/rv-towing/supplemental-brakes/stay-in-play-duo I'll let you guys decide whether it would be legal to use in the UK or not, but I'd say its the same or similar setup used by most camper van towing conversions you see on the roads.
  6. I rebuilt my hinges using an M8 bolt as the pin. They were pretty much scrap as they were so sloppy. I drilled through the top and middle parts of the knuckle to 8mm and tapped the bottom part of the knuckle to m8. Cut the head off an M8 bolt and slotted the non-threaded end so i could use a screwdriver to screw it in. I had to shim them slightly with nylon washers as there was still some up/down movement but it saved me buying 4 new hinges. Doors seem to line up ok so I'm happy enough. Remember when you're removing the pins, they only come out one way!
  7. Thanks for the positive comments guys, it’s been a labour of love over the past two years. I might get a build thread up to try and inspire myself to finish it off. The rear crossmember finishes flush with the end of the tub so I am just going to get a couple of plastic box section end caps to cap off the chassis rail ends and leave it as-is
  8. The frame isn’t all that amazing. Just a piece of box section with the end of the defender outriggers welded on to pick up on the rear bulkhead/tub mounts and locate the tube of the rock sliders. This mounts to two chassis points with rubber engine mounts. The rock sliders are then integral parts to the frame, mounting to the rear box section and the bulkhead, as well as picking up on the discovery body mounts using the same rubber engine mounts. I’ll upload a few random pictures I have below.
  9. A 130 hi cap tub and defender cab fit perfectly on a 100” discovery chassis, just needs a frame to pick up on the body mounts to avoid any cutting of the chassis at all. I think I would have attempted to build it on a discovery 2 chassis if I didn’t already have the discovery 1.
  10. I re-covered mine with faux alcantara suede from ebay, I've also done the bottom dash section like Ian as the vinyl was ruined on both section.
  11. As above, change oil and filter but sometimes this can do more harm than good if the oil hasn't been changed for a long time. If that doesn't fix it its probably cheaper to take a punt at a few second hand gearboxes than send it away to be repaired, there's not a lot that is easily repaired in them at home either. http://www.cowdery.org.uk/zf.php
  12. They're made of the same flexible type of plastic as the originals I think, they feel the same anyway.
  13. Apologies for the bad picture. Your original front arches will have a bit which bridges the gap in the picture between the new arch and the arch liner, you need to cut this off and sandwich it between the extended arch and the wing.
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