Roverdrive

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Roverdrive last won the day on August 31 2016

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About Roverdrive

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  • Birthday 02/20/1962

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    http://www.derrick.demon.co.uk
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  1. Might be as well to check around the exhaust manifold as well. If it is only audiable on boost, it might only be a small leak at this time. As said before, look for signs of soot about the back of the head and manifolds. You might be able to use a soapy water solution to find small leaks, but unless the block is cold, it will evaporate very quickly.
  2. Make sure you measure up the distance from the front bumper to the centre of the engine so you get a hoist with sufficient reach. I was lucky enough to be able to borrow one but the cylinder fouled the bumper. Took some creative rigging to get the engine back in.
  3. Thanks gents You hit the nail on the head. The main earth runs from the battery to the gearbox with a clamp half way along to give the chassis earth. Looks like corrosion here. I ran another earth from the body to the engine block, and now back up to 14.2v at tick over no load. Drops to 13.9v at tick over with every conceivable electric load on. Climbs back to 14v at a fast idle, so all looking like back to normal. in incidentally I picked up on the varying voltage while driving because of the Sparkbright LED voltage monitor I had fitted, so thank you Simon As well!
  4. Thanks Bowie Batteries are connected via an x-eng split charge relay, nothing complicated. The earths are tied together, and one has an earth direct to the winch, the other direct to chassis. Will get underneath while the rain has stopped and check the terminations. Should have added that while maintaining a steady load and rpm, the voltage fluctuates by about 0.7v. It used to be rock steady as long as the load didn't change.
  5. Hi all strange problem with the charging on my 300 Tdi. It is often left standing for 3 weeks at a time, and this time home struggled to start. It has a twin battery system and a 100A alternator. Ran it for a few days without any issues, then one evening after using head lights, it struggled to start after a 20 minute stop. Checked the voltage this morning before starting, and both batteries were a 12.7v which is a bit low compared to normal. Fired up no problem, and voltage rose to 14.02v. Again a bit low compared to the normal figure of 14.2v. Adding electrical load dropped it to 13.3v. On one occasion. Trying the same test it dropped to 12.5v with headlights and spotlights. Strangely starting the heater blower seemed to poke it in to life and he voltage then cam up to 13.6v the alternator is about a year old, and was a genuine parts replacement not from a blue box. Does this sound like the diode pack giving up, or should I be looking elsewhere? Both batteries have been charged up overnight so will refit hem today, and monitor what is happening.
  6. If I unscrew the filler cap on my 300 tdi with the engine running, it stays in place on the rocker cover "fluttering". If I was to put my hand over the filler I would feel some pulsing or pressure. I would call this normal. If when you remove the filler it nearly takes your head off and rolls in to the corner of the garage you have a problem. Are there any other signs such as blue smoke, using a lot of oil ( other than leaks! ) etc.?
  7. Thank you for all of your pointers and ideas. I'll get cracking next leave and see if I can get something cobbled together. Steve, Cheers for the offer, let me know what you find and drop me a line if that is ok? Mike
  8. Thanks for the hints gents. Si, I don't think that will work, as I want an alarm to go off for a set time, and then shut off like a car alarm. I was looking to hack an existing alarm ( Thanks FF I hadn't considered motorcycle alarms ) but the ones I have seen incorporate central locking, volumetric sensors etc etc. I am not going to be using any of that, so it seems like a waste of money. If I am taking this idea forward, I need to keep unit costs down. I guess I need to find a self build timer circuit and incorporate the switch you found Si. Not easy to research as presently in the Atlantic on a ship, and internet speeds are best described as glacial! Mike
  9. Hi Guys / Girls I am looking for a simple alarm for a security project I am working on, but it needs to be as simple as possible! Does anyone know of any self build kits that include remote fob wireless operation, door switch actuation only? No need for microwave space sensing or that sort of malarkey. If there is something off the shelf with just that so much the better, but I need to keep unit costs down if this idea is going to work. Thanks in advance Mike
  10. Cheers Pete from my drawing the purple wire to he caravan socket is fused? i have had the fuse box out to check the wires behind, and given them a good rattle around with the test lamp in place, but found nothing. Dashboard is next. I was thinking of disconnecting the heater plug harness, as it isn't needed at this time of year anyway, so that would rule that out. I have checked the feed to the plugs in case the relay had stuck, but it is ok. Will have another look at the headlight switch. thanks for the suggestions.
  11. Pete No nothing like that. From the wiring diagram, I could change out the under bonnet fuses for something below 30 amp, and disconnect the heat plugs, and see if I can get something downstream of the fuse across the isolator to blow. At least that should narrow things down a bit.
  12. Ralph, it is one of these, or something similar. I know mine is rated for 400 A, http://www.auto-electrical-supplies.co.uk/durite_0-605-20_battery_isolator_switch_with_removable_key_in_the_on_or_off_position?gclid=CN2Yot2nz9ICFVYz0wodw0wHSg Ballcock, there seems to be no rhyme or reason to it, which makes it doubly frustrating! It can go a couple of months with no problem, and then every day blow a fuse. It blew last night as I parked up. No lights on everything off, and turned the isolator off. Within 30 seconds the fuse had blown ( I was fitting the extra security devices etc!) I went back to it this morning, and fitted the test lamp straight away and the lamp did not light. I have since replaced the fuse, and it has not blown - yet!
  13. It is a key operated. Battery isolation switch
  14. Morning all I am trying to trace an electrical gremlin on my 110. There is a battery isolation switch which is turned off when the vehicle is parked, and across this is a fused link to keep alive the radio memory and allow side lights parking at night. The problem is that this fuse has started blowing for no apparent reason. I swapped out the 10 amp fuse for a 30 amp with the same result. The concern is that when diving along with the isolator closed, there could be an intermittent short circuit. The engine bay fuses are all intact, and nothing blows in the cabin fuse box, so I am guessing it must be one of the live feeds to the fuse box somewhere. I have tried putting a lamp across the fuse terminals and shaking e wiring about, including behind the fuse box, and it does not light. Putting the side lights on does bring the test lamp on so I know it works. Does anyone have any experience on known chafing points in the loom to check? Must be live with the ignition off. many thanks Mike
  15. The marine diesel world have been undertaking low NOx conversions for a number of years. We changed out camshafts injectors pistons and turbos to achieve the lower emissions. The same power was achieved with lower EGT, but I can't verify the fuel consumption as what is a few litres when you are burning 25,000 litres a day!