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Posts posted by Roverdrive
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Cheers will have a shufti. Not sure why it should show open circuit at the front light as well?? At present there is no fault to be found despite severe waggling of the harness.
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Pete
Cheers for the additional info.
Sods law is in operation.
I went back to the car this morning, and the fault has gone.
I bridged across the terminals in the fuse box with a 55w bulb, and it did not light.
I tried the side lights ad they worked.
I swapped the bulb out for a fuse, and all is well, after much waggling of wires to see if I could get it to fail.
I'm guessing it will be ok until it starts raining or snowing at night when the fault will present itself once again.
Thank you all for your suggestions.
Mike
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Western
Cheers for that.
I am assuming the problem is before the connection A 173.
I removed the trailer connection and the fault is still there.
Funnily enough I only noticed the issue when towing a trailer as the side markers weren't working.
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Pete
Cheers for that.
It is a place to start tomorrow, but the fact that I am getting the same readings front and rear, makes me think the problem is closer to the fuse box.
I think the feed has been cut / shorted, as all the "consumers" show infinity to earth with the lamps removed, including the numberplate lamps, whle the fusebox shows 1.2 ohms. ( Note I said lamps instead of bulbs to avoid upsetting the electicians here!)
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Cheers for that.
Could you be more specific as to the location please?
Is this before the feeds are taken off to the front and rear of the vehicle?
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Hi
I am calling on the collective wisdom of the forum, as it is now persisting down and I have given up for the night!
The fuse for the LH side / tail light circuit has blown. The previous owner has put in a 10A fuse instead of a 5A so this might be an indication, or not, as I have had the vehicle for 3 years or so.
If I remove all of the lamps, and test for resistance between the live terminal and earth at all positions, I get an open circuit reading on the multimeter (MM).
If I take out the blown fuse and measure between the load side of the holder and earth Iag a reading of 1.2 Ohms on the MM.
I am thinking that the wire has been damaged somewhere between the fuse box, and the point where the front and rear feeds split off.
Does anybody know where this connection point is?
Vehicle is a 1997 300tdi 110 station wagon.
Thanks in advance
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Could be that the fuel has gone "off".
Had a similar problem many years ago with a lightweight.
Would start with a sniff of easy start, and stay running, but would not re start on the key.
A fresh tank of fuel, and the problem went away.
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Looks a good laugh!
When I was competing in comp safaris in a light weight, I would often use low range instead of high, because I could get in to 4th which I thought would give less transmission loss being 1:1.
I could of course be talking complete BS, but the 3rd to 4th change was smoother than 1st to 2nd.
No use if you have long straights of course.
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Ashley
Does it only make a noise with your foot on the clutch pedal?
Could be the spigot bush or the release bearing as indicated above.
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Not strictly relevent, but I drove past a J**p towing a tri axle trailer with six one tonne bags of gravel on it yesterday.
Must have been ok as the trailer was only half full!
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From the GOV web site https://www.gov.uk/driving-licence-categories Category B
You can drive vehicles up to 3,500kg Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM) with up to 8 passenger seats (with a trailer up to 750kg).
You can also tow heavier trailers if the total weight of vehicle and trailer isn’t more than 3,500kg.
You can drive motor tricycles with a power output higher than 15kW if you are over 21 years old.
Physically disabled drivers with provisional category B entitlement will also have provisional entitlement to ride category A1 or A motor tricycles.
Category B+EYou can drive a category B vehicle with a trailer when they have a combined weight over 3,500kg.
There is a link to a page where there is a comparison to the older type licences where the car was a category A which can be found here
https://www.gov.uk/old-driving-licence-categories
I must admit I was a bit worried about towing my 3.5 tonne trailer and read through it 3 or 4 times!
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I still have my paper only licence. Hope they haven't messed up my entitlements.
Another paper only licence here too.
I followed the link given by Bingy, to verify that the DVLA agree with what I think I have, and they do!
Phew.
I know on one person who lost his motorcycle entitlement in the change to a photo-card type licence, and was unable to get it re instated. He gave up in the end and sold his bike rather than keep prodding the faceless bureaucracy.
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Steve
Just seen your reply.
The drop arm came with the steering box, and is slightly shorter than the 101 equivalent, hence the slightly reduced lock. Could be the LDFdrop arm.
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Mav
Check for a high resistance on the fuse connections.
I cooked a few fuses on my lightweight due to corrosion on the fuse holders
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Another vote for the Brownchurch HD rack.
The struts take some of the load down to the body, rather than all on the roof.
I have 4 bike carriers bolted to the ply bed, which stay up there all the time.
No dramas with the roof after two years so far - it has always leaked!
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:hysterical:
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Paranoia strikes once again.
There have been a number of thefts of lights and fittings from Defenders while parked up overnight.
Pity its illegal to wire your motor up to the mains.
Not really a lot you can do to prevent this one, but be on the look out for people hanging about. ( as always )
Mike
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Cheers for that.
Some light bed time reading!
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Hi
A quick question about the 300tdi FIP.
On the overrun, with the throttle pedal in the idle position, is the fuel shut off completely until the revs drop down to the idle RPM, or does the engine receive the "idle" fuelling?
Mike
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Is it only when the vehicle is moving under load?
I had something similar, but only moving off from rest. Turned out to be an engine mounting.
If you fill in your location, there may be someone close who can lend an ear!
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Mav
Hows the new job as an auditor going?? -
Cheers for that.
I have an additional vacuum reservoir to install should it be required.
From the instructions you have, would it be permissible to have the NRV at the pump to allow the reservoir to be available to both servo units, or is the additional NRV there to "protect" the brake servo?
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Apologies for the thread hi-jack, but it is connected to the fitting of a remote servo!
Is there a non return valve on the brake servo connection, whether internal or external?
I have a concern in case a failure of the clutch servo or pipe system causes a loss of vacuum in the brake servo.
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MArtin
Cheers for the pictures.
Very tidy insallation, and food for thought.
My knees aren't getting any younger either!
Clutch release bearing noise
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Our 04 plate disco did the same when new after about a month's ownership. The dealer tried to fob us off with it being "normal" but I insisted on the spigot Bush being changed. I believe it was down to poor initial lubrication.