Roverdrive
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Posts posted by Roverdrive
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I have double checked and mine is also a Range Rover unit.
I can't remember if it came in a blue box though!
I don't think it did, as it still works, and certainly saved the day.
I like the idea of a test button for the light, so will have to incorporate that in the future.
At the moment, I check the operation every time I check the fluids under the bonnet.
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Here is a picture of my trailer hitched to the 110.
The handbrake is nowhere near the step.
The only issue I have is with the ALKO stabiliser fouling on the spare wheel when hitching up
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I have the same on my 110, and no problems with the tin tent or an Ifor Williams trailer.
Is the handbrake lever in an unusual position?
THey are normally well behind the tow ball.
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mmgemini
Cheers for the link up post. I know this has been done to death now, but wanted to flag it up for people who may have missed the original. I was surprised to read in the link that "A series resistor of 680ohm is built-in making direct interface with a relay difficult."
I didn't remember having that issue with my relay system, so have just been out and double checked, and the terminals read 0.8 ohm closed circuit, so maybe I have a different cap? It certainly explains why you needed the electronic system.
I have used a Lucas relay SRB500 part number 21939836.
I think the level float is from a Range Rover, but would have to check back to verify that.
Cheers
Mike
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Driving up the M6, towing a tin tent, the P gasket decided to let go on my 300tdi.
Luckily I had previously fitted the header tank level mod, and was able to pull over, add water, and get to a service station. I threw some rad weld in and hoped for the best as we were on our way to the lakes for a weeks holiday. We got there and back with no further issues.
No damage seems to have been caused to the engine, and all is well once the system was flushed and the gasket was replaced.
My set up uses a normal relay with an "87A" terminal fed from an ignition live supply, and is connected to the redundant 24v light on the dashboard.
If you haven't already fitted the level monitor to the header tank, I highly recommend you add it to you "round tuit" list, as it saved my much needed holiday!
Mike
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Only time I had an air locked 200tdi the symptoms were different.
Normal / hot reading on gauge, and cold air out of the heater.
(That was a Disco rather than a Defender though.
I would tend to look at the thermostat given that it runs ok without.
Have you checked the "Y" piece on the small bore pipe is clear? That can prevent the head venting properly.
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I campaigned a 1989 RRC for a few years with the BW box with no issues.
I did fit a bash plate as I believe the casing to be very thin and unable to take knocks.
Had to drive home in FWD once due to a smashed rear diff.
All in all no problems with the box.
Was also useful towing a heavy trailer when pulling out of side roads, as there was no tendency for the lightly loaded front wheel to spin.
I believe the fuel consumption might be worse with the BW box, but I don't have any facts to back this up. Perhaps just my heavy right foot!
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Looking on the bright side, if I had seen the missing bolt earlier I would not have checked the CV joint, and that would probably have let go when needed most. The bushes will see me through the next few years, so all worthwhile in the long run if not really needed just now!
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Sorted!
It was an expensive day, but got the job done. Since the splines looked a bit worn, I decided to check the cv joint, and found a hair line crack in the cage. Changed it out and the noise was still there. Bu###r! In desperation I crawled back underneath to see if any stones had got jammed between the gear box and transmission tunnel, and spotted a stud missing from the NS engine mount. Fitted a new mount and the noise has gone. The strange thong is that there were no witness marks on the chassis to show a stud had been in there in the first place. When I took the nut from the DS mount to lift the engine slightly, there was bright ring where the nut had been
Go figure.
At least the noise has gone!
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Tanuki, I did consider this, but I kind of clung on to the hope that it can't be the clutch if it doesn't happen on reverse! I would also expexpect some noise when slipping the clutch with the handbrake on??
Phil, I have changed all of the ujs since the noise appeared.
Mike
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Simon
Bit confused by fron t trailing arm, is this what I call the hockey stick?
Near side one do ne today and doing offside tomorrow.
Really hard to describe the noise, but I have heard similar when a uj was breaking up, hence changing all four.
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Hi
I could do with the virtual listening department having a think about this one please.
When starting from rest "briskly" there is a fairly loud noise coming from under the motor. It is a cross between a chirp and a squeek. Definitely metallic in timbre. It happens three or four times or beats, and then stops. Sometimes it will happen on the change between first and second.
The vehicle is a 300 tdi 110.
It only happens with high torque.
It will not do it in reverse.
Trying to pull against the hand brake does not provoke the noise.
Parts changed so far include all four ujs
All bushes on nearside hockey stuck
Drive flange.
A third party seemed to think it was coming from the nearside front of the vehicle.
There is minimal play in the front diff.
Driving in circles on full lock does not make any unusual noises from the cv joint, thigh that is the next thing I was thinking to look at.
Any other ideas?
Mike
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Mav
Good to meet you.
Bad news about the loom. You get back north in one piece, or was it on the way up?
Mike
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CwazyWabbit
Following on from your saga, and my paranoia, I have located someone to make the hykee security barrels for the land rover locks. The cost for ONE is £70!
However if there was a bulk purchase of more than 10, I can get the cost down to £50 per barrel, the question is, would anyone be willing to pay that for a lock? I have a couple more avenues to try, but would welcome some feedback on the costs etc.
PS X-Defend now fitted!
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Scandalous! Though not surprising.
Perhaps share the images on Facebook as a "be on the lookout for"?
Might be one way to get the word out.
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Got my X-lock yesterday, and have got the gaurds for the rear windows on order!
Looks like I might have to go down the route of later style door locks, as I have had no luck with locating HYKEE type barels to fit the existing locks.
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The fact that you are questioning the fitting of this switch,I'm thinking you already know the answer to this, but here's my tuppence FWIW.
Like you, I have only seen the FIA type two bolt fitting isolation switch, and I would be wary of the single mount type rotating under vibration and operation of the switch. If I was to use that type,
If I did use this switch I would sandwich the battery box between the two nuts, and use shake proof washers on either side, but I am afraid my paranoia would have me changing it further down the line!
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Same here with a medium sized marine diesel!
Oil is normally about 65 degrees, with a high alarm of 80 degrees C.
Mind you, we have separators for removing the water, and condensation isn't really an issue with the engines running 24/7.
Smaller engines also tend to work their oil harder, as there is a smaller reservoir.
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Thanks for that Si,
Knowing the facts gives confidence to the new set up so to speak.
Good luck for your future projects.
Mike
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He was certainly very helpful today when I was ordering the pedal lock, despite having a customer in fromnt of him, and me being on a dodgy phone line.
He couldn't give me an answer about the forum discount, as he had to check up, but I'll report back when the bill comes through!
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That was far too easy!
Thanks for making me even more paranoid.
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Doh!
Trying to source the round security lock barrels (Hykee), but read on another forum that some can be picked using a biro!
Suppose it is better than a bent spoon.
Apologies to CwazyWabbit for the thread hijack!
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X Eng pedal lock ordered!
Now I just need window guards, dead bolts, alsation, smart water, tracker, armed guard etc.etc.
Me? Paranoid?
I noticed on my 110 that the rubber seal for the rear windows has been mounted with the "security strip" on the inside, which doesn't stop them smashing the glass I know. Is this why Land Rover deleted the windows from later models I wonder?
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Jeeze, determined little varmits aren't they?
Hope you still have the 110 in your posession.
I'll be having a wee word with Simon for a pedal lock this week.
Did anyone fit the remote activated deadbolts, that were mentioned in another thread? clicky
Rear step
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Yes. The handbrake is above the hitch which is why I was having problems understanding the issue.
A picture speaks a thousand words!