[Defenders and theft]

Yep mine presses hard enough to lock the brakes on enough so it won't roll.

[Vandalised Defenders]

Apparently Conwy Land Rover have stepped in with two loan vehicles until the others are repaired.

It is also good to see the flood of offers to assist with the repair of the mountain rescue vehicles.

[Driver Training request]

I would recommend Dave Mitchell at Land Craft.

He can probably tailor a course to your specific needs.

[Propshaft phasing]

When the flanges are parallel to each other like on the rear axle, the yokes are in phase.

When the flanges are not parallel, the yokes are arranged at 45 degrees like the front axle.

If you look at the front diff, the nose actually points up towards the transfer box.

[Which kill switch 75 or 100A]

If it is just a security feature, consider the du rite one with a "proper" removable key.

It can be locked either on or off with the key then removed.

I have fitted them for both the winch and main batteries

[Overheating or not overheating?]

Trying to come up with other ideas here, so don't shoot me!

If the engine is up to temperature, and you bring the revs up high in neutral does the temp still shoot up?

I think I am right to say there is no instrument pack regulator on Defenders ( Western? ), so it might be worth checking your alternator output voltage is stable.

[Overheating Issues]

Does it have the viscous fan, and if so have you checked it is working correctly?

[Overheating or not overheating?]

Another vote for checking the engine side of the radiator. I have had similar issues, all be it on a 200 tdi Disco.

When the temperature rises, how quick is it? If it flicks up to the max, then the issue is more likely an electrical fault. A steady rate rise would be another pointer towards the fault above.

[Propshaft/suspension issue on 300tdi conversion.]

A slight rise is unlikely to cause any issues. Why not replace the ujs and check the yokes are correctly phased before considering new props?

Is the vibration there on and off the throttle?

[Rear fog and reverse light]

Think it is the TD5 ones I have.

I doubled up with one of each per side.

[brownchurch roofrack ladder]

oops try again

[brownchurch roofrack ladder]

Hi

Sorry for the late response, but this is the ladder on my Brownchurch rack

Image Link

[M1 LRE Dave Micthell's red 90 STOLEN]

It was stolen from the Bala area, together with some tyres and some items from the model shop.

Please let us know if you have any information

Thanks

Mike

[Alternator Fault Diagnosis]

With regard to the battery isolator, is it an FIA approved one with the additional four terminals on the back?

These are designed as engine shut off switches.

When the key is turned, the battery connection is opened, together with one set of contacts that the fuel pump solenoid should be connected through. The other auxy contacts close at the same time. On this circuit is normally a ceramic resistor which shorts the engine side of the switch to earth via the resistor.

Hope this make sense?

[Alternator Issue]

Deep

The figures at higher rpm are a bit low. Once the rpm drop to idle, the voltage starts to recover straight away eventually reaching the initial value.

[Alternator Issue]

Thanks Western,

I guess I already knew the answer to that one :-)

Nice to have a confirmation though.

[Alternator Issue]

Hi

Not wishing to hijack the other thread, I have an issue with the charging on my 300tdi.

On starting the charge light goes out, and when left at tick over the voltage gradually recovers to about 14.2Volts.

So far so good.

If the revs are increased, the voltage will gradually reduce

The higher the revs, the bigger the drop. Typically down to 13.6 Volts without lights,heater etc, and 12.8 Volts with all auxiliaries on.

I am suspecting worn brushes, but any other ideas before I start taking things apart?

I had thought of upgrading to the 100A alternator at some point but will the original cable handle the increase in current?

[A new security device on the market for defenders]

Another vote for the x defend pedal lock here.

Being cack handed, the installation of mine had an unintended effect.

As I mounted it too close to the pedals, when locked on, the brake pedal is depressed locking the wheels

Not sure about the long term effects, but so far so good.

[tire rub issues]

Depending on the wheels you have, it is worth checking the inside of the rear tyres, as my 265s scuff the top of the spring hangers slightly under severe articulation.

[castor corrected radius arms causing vibration]

On the front axle, with the diff nose pointing up towards the transfer box, the yokes of the UJs should be at about 45 degrees to each other.

If the castor corrected arms push the nose of the diff downwards so that it is more parallel to the road than pointing upwards, perhaps you need to turn the yokes so that they are in line the same as the arrangement on the back axle?

[Swerving bad and almost flipped]

Have you checked the tyre pressures?

[Seats]

IIRC I had Volvo 343 seats in my lightweight which were comfy, and my mate has Smart seats in his 90 which are good.

Just a case of trawling the scrappies to see what is available, with the possible benefit of heated seats!

I have fitted Exmoor trip high backs to my 110, which were a bit spendy, but do the job nicely.

[Rimmer Brothers Stainless Exhaust]

I had a SS exhaust on my 101 from Rimmers.

It was good quality and fitted first time, though it did not include the 4 branch manifold indicated in your link.

The exhaust developed a brown finish fairly quickly which was due to the grade of stainless used I believe.

HTH

[winch split charge question]

I`d go along with the above.

I have fitted a digital voltmeter to the winch battery of my 110 so that I can pause winching to allow the batteries to recover.

I try not to drag it below 10.5v and have no problems with relay chatter.

[Head light loom upgrade ready made kits]

Was it in a blue box?