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92.9

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Everything posted by 92.9

  1. That explains the question about the metallic then.
  2. With regard to the final Defender off the production line, the colour is 'Grasmere Green', and as far as I can tell, the paint code is 2207 HBV. I'm not entirely sure if it's exactly the same colour as HUE 166, as it is a metallic finish. They describe it as the 'same' colour as HUE 166 though. Perhaps someone could clarify the details.
  3. Blimey, I forgot about this particular thread. Over a decade since my last post! Thanks for the link though, Martin. Some helpful information there.
  4. Just reporting back. I scrapped it to teach the damned thing a lesson.
  5. Blimey! Nine years since my first post. I forgot all about the vegetable oil idea!
  6. Apologies for the delayed reply AGAIN! I don't seem to be getting e-mail notifications at all. I have actually given up with the damned thing as I'm sick to death of it. I also had a ridiculous situation trying to perform the simple task of replacing the bonnet release cable which involved being sent the wrong one, then ordering again from a different seller to save time, to avoid any more mistakes, which resulted in being sent the wrong one AGAIN! So I ordered yet another one from another seller, who kindly sent the correct one, which I fitted and adjusted, went to test it, gave it a pull and the end came off in my hand! So I had to retrieve the cable by pulling it through from the latch end, re-crimp the handle bit on using pliers, then try to feed the cable back through from the interior end, which took ages due to the inner being widened as it was crushed by the latch clamp during the original fitting. I took the precaution of cutting the front off the bonnet latch security box and grinding a recess in it so I can get the bonnet open through the grille with a screwdriver if I get any more nonsense. Regarding the original problem, I haven't got any further with that, but will be checking the pipe connections at the tank sender next. I did have another go pumping the lift pump lever for another hour or so, but got nothing much - just some liquid sounds coming from the lift pump. That's probably over two thousand actuations of the pump lever now, so I won't be doing any more of that. Anyway, thanks for your replies. I'll report back when I make some more progress.
  7. I suppose that's possible. I'll have to have a look, in addition to checking the pipes for air leaks at the tank end. It does seem odd though that another problem would present itself at exactly the moment the lift pump broke - unless of course they were somehow related. There wasn't much filth in the sediment bowl, so I wouldn't have thought there would be a blockage. I'll have a look though.
  8. Hello Sorry for the delayed reply. I have only just got round to having a go at it tonight. I have put the new lift pump on, having made sure it worked first by pumping the main operating lever (and satisfying myself that the old one was broken - which it was because I couldn't get it to pump by operating the main lever), then I made sure this new one was pumping once I fitted it, but before fitting the pipes - and it was working. So, I have slackened the bleed nut on the filter housing (fitted a new fuel filter), turned the engine over to get it on the cam so the priming lever works, then spent well over an hour pumping the damned thing, trying to get fuel through. How long does it normally take to get fuel through? I had an empty sediment bowl, so I expected it to take a little while, but this is getting ridiculous. I have resistance on the priming lever, and there are visible bubbles around the bleed nut on the fuel filter mounting (I sprayed some WD40 on to see if I was getting any air out of it), so it is definitely pumping. I had some fuel in the filter, so whilst I was turning the engine over to see if I could get a better priming lever action (I couldn't, as it happened), the engine started to fire. I kept going until it started, and it ran for a minute or so, then conked out, so it must have been the fuel in the filter running out. I went back to pumping the priming lever, but still nothing. I must have pumped the stupid thing over a thousand times by now. I have also flattened the main battery AND my jump-starter, trying to get some fuel through it, but still nothing. The next thing I was going to try is setting fire to the car to teach it a lesson, but unfortunately my spare fuel can is empty.
  9. Thanks for your replies everyone I'll get one of those cheap lift pumps from Paddock Spares, then if that doesn't cure it I'll delve into the pipework! Thanks again!
  10. Morning! My 1996 Discovery 300Tdi recently disgraced itself by conking out at anything over tickover, which I thought must be a blockage. Also, a few weeks previously it suddenly became slightly more reluctant to start, which I thought might be the lift pump on its way out. I have cleaned out the sediment bowl, which had some filth in the bottom, but not much (no water in it either). I have also fitted a new fuel filter. When I went to pump it through with the lift pump lever, it wouldn't do anything - no resistance at all, and the lever just hit against its stop. I have tried about twenty times turning the engine over in order to catch the right part of the cam, but it's always the same. Could this indeed be a broken lift pump? If I need a new one, are the cheap ones from Paddock spares any good, or is there a better one for a good price? Thanks very much in advance for any advice or opinions.
  11. Right then, after two months of my life revolving around the weather forecasts I have finally tackled the damned thing and fixed it! Despite the intermittent occurrences of the problem, and everything convincing me it was going to be an electrical fault (a notion fortified when I noticed the absent wiper motor earth lead), the problem turned out to be seized wiper spindles, as suggested to me above! I can't imagine why (or how) an intermittent seizure can exist, but it did! I took the wiper motor out and noticed the motor body was red hot, as everything had seized a few degrees past the park position. I'm surprised something bad didn't happen as it must have been like that since it seized up two months ago. After taking the operating levers off the spindle pivots I had to hammer them to get them moving, then spent about five minutes on each one with the mole grips and WD40, oil and grease before they were free again. Contrary to my usual experiences when finding a problem and apparently fixing it, everything worked when I put it back together. Mike
  12. Ahh thanks! I thought I had better double-check before I went off and starting poking around for a Halibut Rotator. Mike
  13. Okay, thanks, I'll look into that also. I hope it's something that doesn't require the wiper motor being removed! I take it that HR means high resistance though, doesn't it? I couldn't think of anything more specific that it could refer to.
  14. Sorry for the delayed response. I didn't get any e-mail notification so I presumed that no one had replied! I'll have a look at the spindles firtst then. The only strange thing is that it did it intermittently for a little while, returning to normal wiper operation after each problem event. That is up until this time, because it's stil like it! Mike
  15. Hello My 1996 300Tdi Discovery has been behaving strangely in the wiper department. Sometimes when I operate the wipers (soon after starting the car, and at night, if it's relevant), the wipers are extremely slow and take about half a minute to complete a single wipe. After that initial strangeness they usually behave normally on subsequent wipe attempts! It has done this a few times at random over the past few months. Tonight the damned thing did the same, except this time the wipers only moved about forty-five degrees, then stopped mid-screen. I had to get out and assist them in returning to the parked position. I tried again and the wipers stopped again, so I helped them back to the parked position and left them in disgrace. Is this indicative of a specific problem that can be solved with minimal expense/swearing, or am I going to have to get a branch and give the car a Fawlty Towers-style thrashing? Mike
  16. Due to the new MOT regulations I have just spent about two hours reading up on the catalytic converter removal issue for Land Rovers (in my case a 1996 300Tdi Discovery), but I am still none the wiser. I have read a number of contradictory statements of 'fact' from people claiming to be suitably qualified to make such statements, but they can't all be right. I can understand the requirement for there to be a catalytic converter present in order to pass the MOT, if one was fitted originally. That's pretty simple. If that's the case then it's an immediate fail for everyone who has fitted a 'de-cat' downpipe to their Discovery that originally had a catalytic converter. So, is this the case, or not? I'm not sure if it is the case as people have been claiming that a diesel doesn't have a catalytic converter as it's actually a diesel particulate filter and therefore isn't subject to a full cat test. They deny that the requirement for a catalytic converter to be present actually comes into it at all as it is obviated before that point. They go on to point out the wording of the regulations and how this is the case. Conversely, others say that you still have to have a catalytic converter fitted regardless of the wording of the regulations. Then someone says that the 'cat' (on a 300Tdi) is actually a catalytic converter, rather than a diesel particulate filter. Someone else then says it's a cat, but part of it is also a diesel particulate filter. None of this actually goes any way towards stating categorically whether everyone who has removed the cat from their 300Tdi Discovery will end up with it failing the MOT. So, does anyone actually know for sure whether a 300Tdi Discovery, that was originally fitted with what is commonly referred to as a cat, and has since had it removed, will actually pass or fail the MOT under the new regulations? I'm trying to find out exactly what the official situation is, rather than finding out that Dave at the garage down the road says not to worry about it and he'll pass it if you take it there. I'm now also interested to know exactly what it is that my Discovery has fitted, that looks like a catalytic converter. Is it a cat, a particulate filter, or a cat and particulate filter combined? Tonight I've read in various places that it's all or either of those. Thanks if you can throw some light on this utterly ridiculous situation.
  17. That explains it then because my Range Rover was 1991, with the standard Vogue SE wheels, with removable caps on the nuts. That's why I presumed it was the same on my Discovery!
  18. I'll cross the cap removing tool off my list then! Great tip about the drag link tube. I can get one of those easily enough.
  19. Okay, thanks I presumed they were removable as they were on my old Range Rover and these look the same. The caps feel like thin steel to me. You may be right though as I couldn't get them off. I presumed they would be ruined by the force of removing the nut with them fitted, but if there's a taper then I can see that it probably wouldn't bear upon the outer part - and that would also explain the 26mm mystery mentioned above!
  20. Thanks for that. I like the sound of the lump hammer technique. I'll be posting my wanted advert for a new back window very soon.
  21. I know that this is probably the most boring subject that could ever be posted in here, but I'm lacking a bit of knowledge when it comes to wheel nuts. My Discovery Series I came with the usual second hand buyer's option of absent wheel-changing-related items and I'm a bit stuck with a couple of details: I want to buy a wheel brace, and having read that wheel nuts will either be 22mm or 27mm (probably 27mm as far as I can work out), I measured my wheel nuts (including the caps that I can't get off) and the size is 26mm across the flats. Now, that suggests to me that the nuts can't be 27mm if they measure 26mm including the caps. But, surely the nuts aren't 22mm because that would mean the caps are 4mm wider than the nuts. So, can anyone suggest what sized wheel nuts I have got please? The wheels are Freestyle alloys. I'm also missing a cap removing tool, so that's next on the list, shortly to be followed by a jack handle. Finally, I'm missing the key for the spare wheel locking nut, which is a cylindrical tube that spins freely, with a key hole in its end. Naturally of course I got no key for this with the car so I need to get it off, to replace it with a standard nut (or new lock). What would be the best way to get one of these off? I've no idea what they look like inside so I don't know if I need to just cut the end off with the grinder or maybe drill out the lock. Any suggestions there would be a great help. I'm pretty sure all criminals know how to get them off anyway, so it shouldn't be a problem revealing the answer to this. Or if it is a problem then maybe a PM would be better. Thanks very much
  22. Yes, that was the worry. Due to the distribution of bubbling paint areas it would amount to virtually a full respray if I had to get the full panel done for each repair area. If that's the case then I'll just leave it as it is. It's not a great problem, but if I could get it looking really smart for a decent price then I would do that.
  23. Thanks for the replies! I didn't know cellulose was still available in those quantities. If that would go over the standard finish I've got now without reacting with it then maybe I could look into doing it myself - at least on one small area in case I mess it up. Good suggestion about actually buying a replacement panels in the right colour! I've got a friend who has his own painting business, so I'll be able to find out how it would have to be prepared if he did the final painting. I'm not sure about matt black though! I'm not sure I would get away with it on a Discovery!
  24. Thanks for your reply. That was what worried me, about the whole panel having to be done. Considering that the bubbled areas of paint are distributed about different panels, if a whole panel has to be done to sort out each one then I'll end up with what amounts to virtually a full respray! I can do the preparation up to the final painting stage, but I don't think I'll be able to get a factory finish if I attempt the main painting bit. I used to be okay with cellulose paint in the old days, but unfortunately things have moved on since then!
  25. Hello I'm a bit out of date with paint technology, so I would like to find out the modern way of doing things when doing spot repairs on older original (non-water-based) Land Rover paintwork. I would like to do the preparation myself, then get the final painting done by a proper painter. In this case it's a 1996 Discovery in its original factory paintwork, and the repairs will be to sort out a patch of bubbling paintwork on the leading edge of the bonnet, plus a wheel arch edge and a couple of other bits in the middles of panels. Can you do spot repairs to isolated areas on panels these days, or does the whole panel have to be re-painted? Or is it spot repair, then lacquer the whole panel? Also, what is the best way to prepare the panel to bring it up to the painting stage? This assumes rubbing the panel back to bare aluminium, so I would like to find out about primers, and if there's anything that has to be taken into account when preparing panels for what I presume will be modern water-based base coat. Thanks very much
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