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Peter Puma

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by Peter Puma

  1. Hi guys, Most useful thread this one I've just finished installing the HFS electrics in my 2005MY 110. Although people told me that the wiring loom would already be fitted this proved not to be the case. So I put all wiring in myself , including the timer relay PRC6796. The 12V feed is taken from an electronics split charge relay that goes in only when the battery voltage is above 12.8V for > 1 minute. So I didn't use the OP wire that prevents the HFS from working when the engine isn't running. At the same time I'm also installing the DefenderVent kit (perhaps overkill in combination with the HFS). Honestly speaking I'm not too impressed with the quality of this kit, especially considering the cost of it. What is really below standards is the plastic flex tubing intended to connect the site vents to the main vents. This tubing is just too small to fit properly. Instead i found that the air inlet tubing supplied by Webasto is a much better option (although a bit too large but that is easily fixed). I'll post some pictures once all is ready .
  2. Strange indeed to see that no reference is made to any adjustment of this bolt 17 I'll check thing on my Puma to see how it is set up there.
  3. Hi Ralph, The adjustment screw on my pedal box sits below the rotation point of the pedal assembly hence functions as a stopping point rather than what is shown in your picture. I came across that picture also when browsing my collection of older Defender workshop manuals; however in my 2005MY Defender the set-up is really different . During the repair process I've made some pictures. Here you can see the pedal box and the bolt in question (just next to the wing). Also this pictures shows where this bolt actually sits (taken after repainting as a lot of paint simply fell off due to long term contact with the brake fluid ). Using this bolt I cannot adjust how high the pedal sits above the floor. It's function is to define how deep the pedal can be pressed down. It would really be great if someone could check this on their Defender. Some adjustment instructions would be even greater Thanks in advance
  4. Let me know if some things need a translation . I'm native Dutch speaking (although in my area we rather call it Flemish ).
  5. Hi all, I've recently replaced the clutch master cylinder on my Td5. According to LR instructions the resting position of the pedal should be about 140mm above the floor. All is nicely purged, clear Dot4 fluid without air bubbles is flowing out at the slave cylinder. The clutch works, however it bites only at the lower 20mm or so of the pedal. This was also the case before I swapped the master cylinder and I was hoping to improve this. What I notice however is the bolt on the underside of the pedal box that actually limits the clutch pedal travel. This can be seen in the Microcat image as item 17. What is the correct procedure for setting this bolt :?: Can you guys with a Td5 check how deep you can actually press down your clutch pedal ? Mine stops at about 2 - 2.5 cm from the bulkhead (so it could go quite a bit deeper). On my Puma it actually goes much deeper, I have clearly more pedal travel on this vehicle. All feedback / instructions / suggestions is much appreciated. Thanks .
  6. Interested in Land-Rovers, mechanics in general as well as electronics ... and some other stuff :)

  7. Hi Bob, This is the closest that I have. I've just repaired a HL24 diesel unit and have also figured out the complete electronics . http://rapidshare.com/files/441017306/HL24-HL32.pdf
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