aniesigh

hmm, i might just do the same, saves time trying to track down plugs which i can imagine could be a nightmare! cheers

Slightly OT, but did you already have the plugs to connect into the Difflock switch (the one that tells you when its engaged) or did you buy them somewhere? Would like to wire mine up so i know when they've engaged/disengaged If you did buy them, where from?

I also took my truck testing for the first time yesterday and your locker actuators seemed to work faultlessly so thanks

Potentially silly question, but is there a way to know its deffinately running with the no cat map once tune resistor fitted? Obviously it should be provided it's fitted in the right place

The v8 disco 2's have a seperate gearbox Ecu so I'm assuming the td5's do. Trouble is, it's going to need inputs from engine Ecu and probably abs Ecu so unless you can get these inputs to work it probably won't shift. Those inputs may well not come direct from the different ecu'a either they might go via the bcm. Maybe try getting wiring diagrams and studying how it is connected? Or buy a disco and find the Ecu and remove wires from the trans Ecu and see if it still shifts? I've recently bought Compushift from Dave for running a p38 box in my winch challenge buggy and its a very smart looking setup (not fully fitted yet) it's a lot of money but for a near enough plug and play situation it's not bad value,

Oh and make sure you get a box from a 4.6 as its a stronger box than the 4.0 /2.5's (4hp24e over 4hp22e)

Look at compushift on ashcrofts website. Standalone controller for the p38/disco 2 box which allows full adjustability of the shift points and also adds tiptronic control. My kit turned up Monday You'll need to strip the gearbox and change the output shaft and tail housing for one from a discovery/rrc though as the p38 uses a different transfer box.

What for?

Nope, electronically controlled via solenoids. The linkage from the shifter to the box is mechanical though (incase that's what you mean)

Ideal thanks

Hi, Does anyone know if all P38 gearbox XY switches have the same plug on them? I.e will a switch from a diesel plug into a loom from a petrol? Cheers

Car based i believe. not sure if he's doing it as a one-off for someone or planning to do more, can't hurt to ask anyway

is the 722 the trans that comes with the om606? if so drop Neal at Red-winches an email, i heard on the grape vine he's made/making an adapter to go from merc gbox to lt230

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FACOM-U-48-AUTOMATIC-ADJUSTING-RATCHETING-OIL-FILTER-REMOVER-WRENCH-/131401148536?pt=UK_Baby_BabyFeedingUtensils_EH&hash=item1e981e6878 I've got one of these, love it. tried most types (i'm a mechanic) but this is my favourite by far!

Shifts are controlled electronically on the p38's so won't be a sticky governor like when rrc's /disco 1's are slow to shift when cold, but the box's do still use hydraulic oil under pressure to operate so fresh fluid and filter could well help

I don't think a std corrected one would work either, but i also didn't fancy spending out to find out! Maybe you could slide the tube in then bend the two together (obviously you'd have to start again with a new piece of box though). A flat strip could also work, either instead of or as well as. Think i'd be going for a belt and braces approach, people seem to bend standard radius arms and they're solid! Must admit i was very tempted for a 1 link on mine, future project though i think

Landrover radius arms foul the steering tie bar. not too sure on the welding, but plenty of people modify the LR radius arms and weld to them etc so i reckon it'd be ok. i'd maybe look at getting some thick walled tube that fits nicely inside the box to strengthen it up. The box will be strong at the moment, but if its gets dented if it lands on a rock or something, it will create a weak point which could then kink/snap. to slip something inside it at the minute is an easy extra step to do.

Hmm, you make it sound so simple! I'll do some digging when I get 5 minutes

Sounds interesting... How would I go about making it stop at the various positions?

Well that's my bonfire Mildly miffed on! Cheers guys

infact if the XY switches are as simple as they need to be, there would be no real need to actually use one, may aswell just use a 5 way switch if it would work with compushift

Hi all, after a bit of info if anyone has the answers... on the electrical versions of the 4hp22/4 boxes, there is obviously the XY switch on the side of the box, and still the mechanical link going in to the box. my question is... is the purpose of the mechanical link purely for park operation? i scrapped all of my scrap boxes the other day so can't have a look. i'm fairly sure it is. space is a premium in my cab, and i'm thinking of having a small switch/lever for gear selection (can operate the XY switch directly, without it being connected to the box) then maybe a pneumatic actuator for park. this would really up my options of places i can mount gear shift! cheers

Never understand all the silly high postage costs, where I used to work (until only a month ago so not outdated info) they had a mail order side to the business so I used to send all my eBay sales stuff out through them and sneak it through, but they only paid ~ £5 + vat for up to 20kg via interlink express, and you could send multiple parcels to one address under that one fee! They did a fair bit so obviously they'd negotiated good terms but I'm sure they were no bigger than foundry or any of the other companies guilty of these rip offs. I think they just see it as an easy extra tenner on a bill!

Why do these things happen at bad financial times for me! So your costing is for laser cut parts, on top of that to complete would be mechanical hardware (nuts bolts etc etc) plus the electronics? i stopped following the thread as i couldn't keep up with it! i'm assuming its belt driven, what size is it?

Hi all, I recently bought Neal Jones' whitbread 'thug' due to lack of time to finish my own 100" tray back build due to new business venture, buying a house that needs work etc. Although the whitbread is a working truck I want/need to change some things about it. I already had a set of 80 series land cruiser axles bracketed for LR from my tray back, however they were done for d1/rrc radius arms whereas the thug has d2 front radius arms. So my options are: Re-bracket chassis for d1 radius arms Re-bracket axle for d2 radius arms 3 link or 1 link. I'm leaning towards d2 radius arms or 1 link. The d2 radius arms should flex better than d1 radius arms, and the d2 radius arms i have are beefed right up whereas the d1 arms are standard. I like the idea of better steering lock with 1 link, but probably more work. The shape of the 80 front axle means that the radius arms have to sit wider at the axle end then standard LR configuration, is this an issue? I like the idea of 3 link but fitting it all in is no easy task (will be running v8 so exhaust down both sides, plus large wide-ish sump Any other input much appreciated! Cheers