aaronjp1990

Sorry forgot to update. Took the turbo off and sent it back to turbo technics. They stripped it down and found that it was worn out. They also noted that the veins weren’t moving correctly inside. They upgraded it to the lates spec and sent it back.

Had a look at all the pipes and they are fine and are all silicone. Vanes are free and pin is still in tacked. My thinking is the actuator isn’t pushing the vanes open when the boost increases. ill give Ian a call tomorrow and see what he says and update the thread.

Think I’m having issues with my Turbo Technics, doesn’t seem to be spoiling or making the same boost levels. It’s coming up for 9/10 years old. She has been parked up inside for the last two. Could it be a sticky/perished actuator? Anyone know how to fault find and check over this turbos and what pressure it would have made originally? It was supplied via IRB along with a map, intercooler etc

Sorry for the late reply, i forgot to update, With the old tank, even if you wedged the pump in from the roof you couldn't get it in far enough to take a grip with the retaining ring. That was with the seal in place and tab lined up. I ended up sticking a second hand tank in and fitted the new pump into that one, it went in no problem, how a simple job turns into a heat ache! On the plus side when i had the tank out the breather was all perished so swapped that all over at the same time. So far so good!

Will give knocking the white ring off and see if it will go back on the right threads, didn't know it was screwed on. Just assumed it was pressed on in a factory. Just filled the tank when the pump popped out slightly and started leaking. Thanks

The problem i am having is that they are not enough room for the seal next to the locating tab. The black plastic rim that the seal sits on below the white threaded part is flush at the locating tab and on the other side it is down about 5mm which would leave enough room for the seal.

Has anyone ever had any issues fittings a 110 td5 fuel pump? I have attached some photos to explain better, if you look at the retaining ring on the passengers side where the rubber washer would sit it is about 4mm lower than the ring. On the right hand side it is almost flush with the top. Iv tried wedging the pump into the tank to get it screwed back in but now mater what i do it will not take a proper grip. Any ideas?

Update for anyone else what similar problem. Well today I checked another new replacement sender, it appears that the new one I fitted last week was faulty and reading 15c colder than it actually. The sender was a bearmach unit, sourced a genuine sender and fitted that and cross checks the temperature with the new one. Took it for a drive and the gauge is reading where it used to be. I cured the gauge fluctuating by running a new earth from the ecu to the battery, which highlited that they were still an issue somewhere and that changing the thermostat wasn't infact required.

Well tonight I was using my defender and did a good 10 miles with a outside temp of 2-3c, the needle was a width outside the blue. Nanocom was saying about 63, weather is still to poor to whip out the sender and test in boiling water to see what temp its reading. So I used an infrared temp gauge and the engine block is at 82c, top of the radiator is 74 and the return at the lower is 20. Am I correct in thinking that it's looking like a wiring issues or another faulty sender? Does anyone have a td5 wiring diagram showing what pins on the ecu are from the sensor? Also is the sensor using the engine as negative? Not the other connection on the sender? Ie one running temp and one overheat?

I'm going to try that tomorrow when this wind passes. I dug out my infared thermometer and going to see what that says, am I right that when's she's fully up she should be 90 something?

My 54 plate 110 td5 seems to have developed a fault with the coolant system, She seems to be unable to get up to operating temp and the water gauge would fluctuate if you accelerated or de accelerated. If got to the bottom of the gauge fluctuating by running a new earth from the ecu and post directly to the - on the battery. If replaced both the sender and fitted another new thermostat but to no avail, the nanocom says the coolant is at aprox 60-65, even going for a long drive it gets no higher and the heater off and the gauge reads around the 10-11 mark and not in the middle where it used to sit. I was going to order a new vdo sender and fit a vdo temp gauge but unsure if the ecu relies on the coolant temp for the fueling? Or does anyone have any more ideas on the possible problem?

big club hammer and a big punch and give it a few big smacks and will spin off no bother, how i got mine off anyway

I managed to snap my frond shaft like a twig with 265/75 16 bgf muds with the ATB with a little left foot braking when I was stuck at idle speeds reversing out of a peat ditch.

I am thinking to try this out http://www.supatracks.com/best-grip-screw-in-ice-studs.html not to sure how well they will stick into the bfg muds though and they are kid of expensive if they don't stay in! Anyone tried them out here?

I put a rake way solid flywheel on mine and no more noise than normal for me i would say. Its also running one of Ians St2 map and vnt turbo.