P H Services

The only people i can think of close to you is Bicknells Boilermakers at Hollycombe near Liphook i expect they may have some thing. If you go there expect some abuse they are friendly honest

I think it depends on the age of the disc brake axle on the earlier ones the brackets for the caliper mountings are just bolted on so yes you can swap the bits. On some of the later ones the brackets seem to be bolted and welded on so you cant just swap the bits over. So just check the caliper mounting brackets if they can be unbolted your in luck !!!!

Personally i would go for mig as well as it is much easier to use for landrover patching. Arc welding is very good for heavy duty use and is relativley easy to do especially with something flat in the vise, Personally i find it a pain to do vertical welds with. I have only tried once to do a patch on a landy with arc got fed up and used my mates mig. Mig is much easier for using whilst laying under your landy. As a footnote i spend an average of 20 hours a week minimum welding up Landrovers !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It comes up with that on our copy at work if you try and open it twice by mistake because the dongle only allows one program to run at once i think

Did you change the spigot bush if this picked up a burr during the change it can cause this exact problem (speaking from experience)

You will still have some work to do as the 300 downpipe has a 2 bolt flange and the turbo diesel has a 3 bolt flange it wont all marry up so you will have to mix and match i expect !!!!

When i fitted my 300 to my 1990 110 i used the original gearbox mountings and the engine ended up approx 2 inches further forward than a factory 300 but all the tunnel and seatbox remained the same so saved too much modification.

I spent too much as usuall !! A set of mach 5's fitted with bfg all terrains 4 mud terrains fitted to a set of eight spokes (stupid cheap couldnt leave them there Steering gaurd for the 90 Rear exhaust bracket for my 80 Good day as far as i was concerned well worth it

I actually saw one yesterday in a yard in the new forest not far from me that the chap is meant to be doing up. Not sure how long it will take as he has had a freinds 80" there for at least 3 years to do and its not even a rolling chassis yet !!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had one for a while it was half a leaf spring that was fixed at the front end and protruded out behind the back of the axle which is where the coil spring was mounted. The top mounting was a channel that fitted over the chassis and was drilled and then bolted through the chassis to locate it. It did work well greatly improved the ride but i could of done with better shock absorbers on the back as they didnt damp very well and was a bit bouncy !!!! All in all it worked very well and i was pleased with it.

I feel your 110 might be sitting on my ramp again sooner than we both thought then mate ????

The part number is for the earlier type propshaft as fitted on pre td5 defenders. The td5's and i think some of the late 300's have much larger uj's. Perhaps you got the sataurday boy ??????? The ones you are after do exist but cant remember the part no. !!

You should be able to buy a dye penetrant kit which i think from memory comprises of 3 aerosols. I think you clean the component then spray on the dye clean off again and then spray with developer which then shows the dye creaping out of the crack if there is one !! I stand to be corrected because i haven't done any for years.

There are some advertised on ebay i know there is a company in Romsey Hampshire thats has done some I think they are called musslewhites and they are on Budds Lane Industrial Estate

Take them off they are a pain in the bum in my opinion !!

I had the same problem on a mates 110 and my own the shims only come with genuine pads and are not avalible as a seperate item !!!

On the transits i just fill the fuel filter up with fresh fuel or injector cleaner. But make sure you take them for a test drive afterwards as they have a habit of coming loose !!!

Thrust washer on the cranshaft as a guess !!!

I bought a drill doctor as well they are brilliant get my vote every time even though they arent cheap !!!!

A mate of mine has put a 2b on a defender 300 tdi 110 chassis it looks really good and he uses it nearly every day for work on his farm. The biggest problems he had were the steering which he sorted with a lot of uj's and plumber block bearings, and the gear linkage took him a while to sort out.He fitted and ally dropside on the back which is ideal for what he uses it for. It does look good coming up the road with bed on the landy loaded up with straw bales and his 3 axle ifor williams behind it loaded up too.

I'm sorry to dissapoint you but you won't be able to use you spot welding attachment to do this !!!!! It will be fine for doing steel but for spot welding ally you need a totally different set up. When i was doing sheet metal work for a living the firm i worked for looked into buying an ally spot welder it was mega expensive and needed a power supply big enough to run a small village !!!!!!!!!!!!

On the few that i have done i have always needed to use my hydraulic press to seperate it all !!!!! The other problem is trying to find the proper bearings and the retaining sleeves which i believe are coming hard to find now !! Hope this helps

There are 2 different mod kits for the cambelt the small one which is the bottom shrouded pulley etc and then there is the big bugger which you have to change the whole front timing chest (not a nice job). You will need to check the chassis number to find out if your vehicle falls within the ranges stated I have done a couple of the big kits but mainly the little one does the job. Hope this helps.