Bille

NOPE!!! But I did misread it:-) You're correct it should be AMR1088 not AMP1088, the leg on the R is pretty faint so I missed it. Well that might make it a bit easier to track one down. Thanks for the help I'll come back with the results if I can get hold of one. Bill

Been a while but got my son to get under the dash and check it out......He found it where you indicated however the flasher relay appears to be ok but there is a small brown plastic relay?? about 25mm x 25mm x 25mm with 5 flat pins near it that has these numbers printed on it; Y2315 - M52 - X186 (On the First line) AMP 1088 (On the second line) and 12v R601 (On the third line)I'm not sure what it does but it seems to be the culprit. Probably a generic part but my local dealer doesn't sell them. Any clues or work around appreciated.

G'day Steve Thanks for the input...I've got a pinched sciatic nerve in my lower back so think it's going to be a quite job getting down and finding the relay, any idea where Land rover in it's wisdom may have hidden it in a '93 Rangie? Cheers Bill

Hi everyone. I have '93 Classic hadn't been driven for a couple of months, battery went flat, put the charger on, terminals needed to be cleaned so disconnected battery and cleaned terminals and charged the battery. Reconnected the battery terminals, vehicle starts fine and runs fine.....BUT!! the Hazard lights keep flashing and I can't turn them off. What to do??????? All suggestions, hints, tips appreciated. Bill

Not sure if you're asking me, anyway I'll answer and you can work it out if my answer fits your question:-)they come through the leading (Hinged)edge of the door from the front pillar from memory, I'll see my son probably tomorrow and find out what he can tell me about the set-up and the brand. I do recall the winder set up was pretty cheap looking just a couple of metal pressings making a housing with a gear wheel inside and worm drive attached to the flexible cable drive from the motor, as the worm turned it turned the gear wheel and in turn the centre turned the window winder mechanism.

I had a '80 2 x door with the option C motor drive (since given it to one of my sons and it works fine) it was on the vehicle when I bought it off a car yard just after the original owner who brought it to Australia from the Channel Islands traded it in. I can't recall the brand but it is/was a fairly common brand if I recall correctly...I will ask him and let you know..each door had a magnetic cover plate with the brand on it to cover the hole where the normal winder would have been. From memory the motors are secured to one of the door side intrusion bars with a short drive cable to the winder. Later.

When it happens are the conditions the same/similar i.e. Had you been driving for the same time, similar speeds, stop startcity driving, similar road conditions, similar ambient temperature? Have you checked/changed transmission fluid or had the transmission serviced?

I think I recall seeing somewhere that there is a correct procedure to disconnect the battery without creating any hassles. Have you looked in the owners manual or searched the nett?

It appears that something has become detached that would do the 'Manual' pull down of the plunger when the key is turned in the lock....just a guess but I suspect that if you remove the door lining and get a small mirror so you can see what happens it will be a big help and if you get one of the extendible probes with the magnet on the end you will possibly be able to retrieve any 'bits' that have dropped to the bottom of the door. NOTE: I have one of these probes and the magnet is very strong from memory it can lift 2kgs and it's a bit of a pain when trying to get into a tight spot to pick up a bolt/nut you dropped because it keeps sticking to everything else - One with a less strong magnet might be better. Good luck....hope this helps.

+1 Either dropping the prop shafts or loading it onto a truck/trailer you haven't much choice......I just love the French...They still have difficulty in accepting their irrelevancy in the natural order of the world:-)

From your question can we assume you can lock it using the remote? Is it possible that the door or the part on the centre pillar are are out of alignment or worn? Has the door dropped a little on the hinges? Have you tried removing the inside door panel and using some spray lubricant on the mechanism, also cleaning up and tightening any of the electrical connections. For the lubricant I would use something that wont dry out such as one of the lanolin based sprays on the market. At least with the door panel removed you might be able to see what is happening. Good luck....hope this helps.

Just a comment on the original nasty noise it certainly didn't sound to me like a big end noise which in my experience is an actual lower sounding knock sound...If I were you I would have a look at all the pistons and big end shells while you have it down to this stage, also carefully examine the crankshaft where the worn/damaged cap/shell is from. Also if you cleaned the other pistons while they were in the motor are you sure there is no possibility any carbon finished up between the cylinder walls and the pistons because this could cause bad scoring of the liner. May as well do this in the best way you can because you're putting in a fair bit of effort + head gaskets, sump gaskets, new oil etc. etc. So you will want to get it as right as you can other wise it will always be at the back of your mind. Thanks for a well documented post. Good luck...Hope it all works out for you.

I once had one of my Landcruisers come back to the yard with that sort of noise...It was a broken piston (Skirt was broken but not through the gudgeon)the driver drove about 50klm like that...bloody idiot!!! luckily we were able to take the head off and hone the cylinder and fit a new piston and rings....very very lucky. Good luck mate.

+ 1 You're going to be lucky to have one out of a vehicle to see what has to be done then do it yourself, I wouldn't drop the whole box.

I don't know how relevant this is today but years ago an old time mechanic showed me how to check...Used some Bearing Blue and a piece of glass on a clean flat surface, put the bearing blue on the glass and slide the head across the blue any area of the head that doesn't have the bearing blue indicates warped. I have used this a guide when checking heads but I'm not a mechanic so don't do very often, but has worked for me.....I don't know what tolerances are acceptable...so someone more knowledgeable might like to jump in. Good luck hope this helps.

My VC packed it in about 4 or 5 years ago with the same symptoms. You don't say where you are but I sourced a new one from the UK (Paddocks if I recall) about $600AUD delivered to my door in Perth Australia in 6 days (Even though it was sent to Denmark for 24 hrs, then back to UK then Australia)...Local suppliers were quoting me about $1300AUD...Not that hard to fit, though I did get a mate who is a automotive fitter who hadn't done one before to give me a hand, but he's one of those guys who can do anything on a car/truck...about 1.5 hour job from memory. Hope this helps....Good luck.

Whoooops!!!!! Double post sorry.

Well it really will depend on how big the tires are that you're going to because it can make a difference to gearing, speedometer accuracy and you probably will have to modify your wheel arches....Might have been a good idea to let us in on the secret of what vehicle it is:-)

This is probably not the same but my '93 RRC used to have a similar cutting out problem (Didn't have the miss though) nearly drove me crazy...Well I knew I could eventually find the cause...went to a couple of RR 'Specialists" who put the diagnostics on it and told me it would cost some $$ between the 3 of them it was somewhere between $1500 and $1800....I persisted and eventually found it was the water temp sensor on the top of the manifold that sensed when the vehicle was up to temperature and would cut the fuel back....Instead it wasn't working and told the ECU that the engine wasn't up to temperature so kept pouring the fuel in result was over fuelling, if I left it for 15mins it would start like nothing had happened.... $30AUD sensor later and it has been fine ever since......So much for the "Specialists" with the diagnostics who thought they could see into my wallet:-)

Thanks for that....Been after one of these forever, Great job,\. Cheers Bill

You don't say if you want an official catalogue or not I have a parts and price from this company it's way out of date but they are still in business http://www.fwd.com.au/ obviously they are in Australia (Victoria). The parts # aren't Rover numbers just the company's. I don't think you will find an official one outside of a dealer... Or maybe a RR workshop that may have acquired one on the side. Can't be of any more help I'm afraid. Good luck.

It is the temp sensor to tell the ECU that the motor was hot and that there was no need to deliver extra fuel to the injector which resulted in it running very rich and flooding...same as in the older carby vehicles with the choke being engaged when the engine was hot....by waiting the 10 minutes or so after it stopped the excess fuel would drain to the sump and the engine will start. With some effort I could usually drive mine but had to keep the revs up, as soon as they dropped it would stop.....my wife couldn't quite get the hang of this. Initially it was intermittent and might not happen for a couple of weeks....but eventually became a more regular event.

I had a similar annoying problem with my '93 took it to all the guru's around town, all checked the computer and declared the problem could be fixed in a day for somewhere between $1000 and $2500. Gut feel told me it wasn't that serious, thought about it, did a bit of a fiddle, checked the tail pipe which was pretty black, set it running in the driveway 'till it got hot, stopped and wouldn't start, about 10 to 15 minutes.....Trickled a little cold water onto the sensor on top of the head just forward of the injectors and it started...Bought a new sensor $32 and it was fixed. Cheap fix, worth a try....Good luck.

I would recommend NOT using silicone because it will really only work if the surface is prepared properly i.e. very clean (Not dusty) and dry and if it fails is almost impossible to re-silicone (Silicone doesn't stick to silicone) I always use a Selleys product called 'Wet Seal' in Australia...Probably also sold in other markets also...It's a co- polymer sealant and can be re-done easily and cleans up with WD-40 or similar products. Good luck..hope this helps

I'm not sure where you live but a vehicle modification like this will probably take it out of compliance...so if you ever have to take it for a road worthy inspection in all likely hood it will fail.