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Tanuki

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Tanuki last won the day on June 2 2019

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About Tanuki

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    Old Hand

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    tanuki@canismajor.demon.co.uk

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  • Location
    Wiltshire

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  • Interests
    Wolves, Land-Rovers, Military radio, home-made wine, forestry, amateur radio.

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  1. Rather than an inertia-switch [which can be set-off inadverently - the one on my 90TD5 tripped once during a 'clumsy' trailer-hookup] could you maybe use one of the 3-way oil-pressure-switches that kill power to the fuel-pump when there's no oil-pressure? Alternatively, 1970s/80s Fords used a relay that took pulses from the distributor and shut-down the fuel-pump when the engine wasn't turning.
  2. There are 2 aspects to battery-health; the ability to store charge and the ability to deliver that charge rapidly-enough to actually start a vehicle. Testing these - particularly with modern batteries - is rather more than just looking at the battery's terminal-voltage; I'm sure you're all familiar with the battery that's got enough voltage to bring the instrument-lights on at a seemingly-OK brightness but which gives the solenoid-death-rattle when you try and crank the engine. My "general purpose" battery-test is to turn the headlights on - and leave them on for an hour. Headlamps typical
  3. Diffcult starting, lumpy running-after-start: Does it start easier if you do a few fuel-system purge-cycles [see manual] before trying to start it? If so, how old are the copper injector-seals? I consider these to be a 60,000-mile service-item. You may be able to run a TD5 longer, but the copper seals *will* be leaking after 60K miles, letting combustion-gases back into the fuel-galleries and feeding carbon-crud back to the fuel-tank, where bacteria grow and produce 'Diesel Fungus' that clogs the pick-up-pipe-filter and kills the fuel-pump.
  4. The thing is, a business can lease a £50K vehicle on, say, a 3-year-plan, it's both VAT-deductible and the lease-payments are entirely seen as legitimate business-costs, so they come off your balance-sheet before any considerations of 'profit' are made. Meaning you get to pay £500/month to drive a nice vehicle that impresses your customers/clients and that £500/month is not your _personal_ tax-liability.
  5. Had this on my 90TD5 at about 10,000 miles - Give the red plug on the main harness, and the matching socket on the ECU, a good blast with brake-cleaner; then as mentioned hook the rubber gasket round the inner edge of the main harness plug out to let any further oil drain out. When you replace the injector loom under the cam-cover, give the matching plug on the engine-bay wiring harness a good blast with the brake-cleaner and let it dry before re-plugging it to the replaced injector-loom. Oil will continue to emerge from the red plug over a period of weeks - so pull it off and blast
  6. Don't look at the purchase-price; look at what it costs-per-month on a 3-year business lease. Then remember that you can slice 20% off that cost when you reclaim the VAT. The vast majority of Hiluxes, Rangers, L200s are leased these days: it makes serious cashflow-sense even if you're a sole trader or D/B/A.
  7. Worth looking at the AFFF extinguishers used for rally-cars; a nozzle in the engine-bay and a couple behind the dash, with an external release-pull [you don't want to be in the vehicle when the extinguisher goes-off!] There was another system I saw used some time back which involved a small-diameter - about 1/4-inch - thinwall green plastic pipe that was threaded through all fire-likely locations and back to the gas-bottle. Get a fire and the pipe melts, dumping the bottle-contents. Probably no longer available outside the aerospace/military/nuclear/medical industries though, because it use
  8. Also check the settings of the two steering-stop-bolts on the ends of the axle-tube; if these are not correctly adjusted the swivels can turn through a larger-than-intended angle, which could possibly cause the problem you're seeing.
  9. It'll run, sure - but with the injector-profiling unmatched to the original ECU fuelling-profile it will be less-than-optimally-efficient, less-smooth-than-it-could-be, and potentially wasting fuel and giving the catalytic-converter/emissions-control-system a hard time with over/underfuelling. Why do half-a-job when you could get the thing properly matched?
  10. In times-past I've used my 90TD5 to haul dozens of bogged cars off country-fair/agricultural-show carparks; I always offer them the end-of-the-cable and expect them to suitably-attach it to their car. [If they wrap it round a track-rod ARB or FWD driveshaft rather than attaching it to a proper tow-point on their vehicle, welll...] Only had a couple of problems - one was a bunch of lower-class-types in a lowered-class VW Golf; dragging them out across ruts meant their stupid front spoiler snagged on the ruts and they then drove over it. Resulting in much Anglo-Saxon language from them. I ha
  11. I can see the attractiveness of this for a vehicle for regular less-than-50-mile journeys - taking shooting-parties to their pegs and to haul bales out to stock on the hill - particularly if it can be discounted for tax-purposes against various 'zero-emissions' eco-grants the government seems to be throwing-around at the moment. Recharging shouldn't be a problem for commercial operators: any serious farm'/estate will have three-phase as standard, which will happily supply 100KVA of fast-charge goodness [if yours can't, take it up with your DNO] The tax-equations will be the really-importan
  12. Also worth checking the tyres - both for rolling-radius and pressure. In times-past one of my cars [1977 Range Rover] had a bit of a power-on/power-off 'drift' which I spent ages trying to track down - eventually turned out to be unmatched (different brands, different amounts of wear) tyres on the front axle. New tyres of the same make on the front and the problem vanished.
  13. The good ones are surprisingly-good; the bad ones are predictably-bad. They use Li-Ion batteries [as found powering Teslas etc] - and generally work on the principle that they can quickly shove some significant number of Joules into your dead battery, rather than attempting to directly crank the engine from the battery-pack itself. I've got one [badged "RING"] that as well as doing the boost-thing also has a Hella-socket so I can use it to power my coolbox and HF radios when camping; I've only once had to use it to jump-start a car [an Audi A6 3.0 V6 Diesel] but it did the job surprisingly
  14. For the crazy off-road/extreme-adventure types, there's always Torsus: https://www.torsus.eu/ who build offroad-people-transporters using well-proven MAN engines/transmissions. I'm sticking with the Toyota 'commercial' Landcruiser - if only they can get their fingers out and actually build the thing!
  15. Can you not lease it rather than buying it? If it's leased and it goes-wrong then the issue is between the lease-company and the dealer: OK, it was 3 decades years back but when I was working in the US I leased a car [a Chevy Corsica.... ugh!!] and when it went wrong I called the leaseco and said "it's broken - send me another" and they did within six hours.
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