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Tanuki last won the day on June 2 2019

Tanuki had the most liked content!

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About Tanuki

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    Old Hand

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    Wolves, Land-Rovers, Military radio, home-made wine, forestry, amateur radio.

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  1. I found that the BECM-equivalent [alarm/immobilizer] on my 90TD5 was being kept 'awake' by the thing-on-the-central-heating-oil-tank-that-reports-the-oil-level-to-the-display-in-the-house. This was sending a reading every 10 minutes or so - and with my Defender parked only a few feet away it couldn't help but hear it! The usual frequencies for the remotes are around 418, 433-434 or 868MHz. An old-style "Scanner" receiver (generally obsolete now the police/ambulance/fire-brigade have all gone digital) is a useful tool to investigate these kinds of problems. I got round the problem by n
  2. Folllowed a Black Defender 2.0 back from Devizes today, which gave me some time to study its rear-profile before he turned-off to Avebury. To me, it does look a bit of a "Fat-bottomed girl" as Queen would put it: the wheelarches seeming too wide for the upper superstructure (reminds me of the 'bubble' arches boy-racers fitted to Mk.1 Escorts back in the 70s). Keeping the same track but widening the body up-top and using smaller wheelarch-flares would have given a more-balanced profile [also being a quiet 'heritage' nod to the original flat-sided Series LRs!] - they could then have moved t
  3. I could - perhaps - give houseroom to a New [old] Defender - but I'd want a van-bodied 90 and would insist on the silly attention-attracting 'adventure' accessories [roll-cage/roofrack/lights/A-bar/winch] being deleted, it being repainted in base white, and fitted with 117MPH road-rated tyres. I never want to attract attention. You can blat a clean-but-boring-looking Land-Rover down a motorway at 80MPH and the Volkspolizei don't turn a hair; do the same in something that looks like it's a low-rent refugee from Tomb Raider and you can guarantee to see blue-lights in your mirrors.
  4. I'd go for a 90; I don't need the space of a 110 - I'd want a 'commercial' version so no rear seats to waste space, and a 90 will be lighter [so better handling] and easier to park too. [I once made the mistake of taking a 130-inch HCPU into a multi-storey underground car-park... and got very good at making multi-point turns to get on/off the up-and-down ramps!]
  5. Rather than an inertia-switch [which can be set-off inadverently - the one on my 90TD5 tripped once during a 'clumsy' trailer-hookup] could you maybe use one of the 3-way oil-pressure-switches that kill power to the fuel-pump when there's no oil-pressure? Alternatively, 1970s/80s Fords used a relay that took pulses from the distributor and shut-down the fuel-pump when the engine wasn't turning.
  6. There are 2 aspects to battery-health; the ability to store charge and the ability to deliver that charge rapidly-enough to actually start a vehicle. Testing these - particularly with modern batteries - is rather more than just looking at the battery's terminal-voltage; I'm sure you're all familiar with the battery that's got enough voltage to bring the instrument-lights on at a seemingly-OK brightness but which gives the solenoid-death-rattle when you try and crank the engine. My "general purpose" battery-test is to turn the headlights on - and leave them on for an hour. Headlamps typical
  7. Diffcult starting, lumpy running-after-start: Does it start easier if you do a few fuel-system purge-cycles [see manual] before trying to start it? If so, how old are the copper injector-seals? I consider these to be a 60,000-mile service-item. You may be able to run a TD5 longer, but the copper seals *will* be leaking after 60K miles, letting combustion-gases back into the fuel-galleries and feeding carbon-crud back to the fuel-tank, where bacteria grow and produce 'Diesel Fungus' that clogs the pick-up-pipe-filter and kills the fuel-pump.
  8. The thing is, a business can lease a £50K vehicle on, say, a 3-year-plan, it's both VAT-deductible and the lease-payments are entirely seen as legitimate business-costs, so they come off your balance-sheet before any considerations of 'profit' are made. Meaning you get to pay £500/month to drive a nice vehicle that impresses your customers/clients and that £500/month is not your _personal_ tax-liability.
  9. Had this on my 90TD5 at about 10,000 miles - Give the red plug on the main harness, and the matching socket on the ECU, a good blast with brake-cleaner; then as mentioned hook the rubber gasket round the inner edge of the main harness plug out to let any further oil drain out. When you replace the injector loom under the cam-cover, give the matching plug on the engine-bay wiring harness a good blast with the brake-cleaner and let it dry before re-plugging it to the replaced injector-loom. Oil will continue to emerge from the red plug over a period of weeks - so pull it off and blast
  10. Don't look at the purchase-price; look at what it costs-per-month on a 3-year business lease. Then remember that you can slice 20% off that cost when you reclaim the VAT. The vast majority of Hiluxes, Rangers, L200s are leased these days: it makes serious cashflow-sense even if you're a sole trader or D/B/A.
  11. Worth looking at the AFFF extinguishers used for rally-cars; a nozzle in the engine-bay and a couple behind the dash, with an external release-pull [you don't want to be in the vehicle when the extinguisher goes-off!] There was another system I saw used some time back which involved a small-diameter - about 1/4-inch - thinwall green plastic pipe that was threaded through all fire-likely locations and back to the gas-bottle. Get a fire and the pipe melts, dumping the bottle-contents. Probably no longer available outside the aerospace/military/nuclear/medical industries though, because it use
  12. Also check the settings of the two steering-stop-bolts on the ends of the axle-tube; if these are not correctly adjusted the swivels can turn through a larger-than-intended angle, which could possibly cause the problem you're seeing.
  13. It'll run, sure - but with the injector-profiling unmatched to the original ECU fuelling-profile it will be less-than-optimally-efficient, less-smooth-than-it-could-be, and potentially wasting fuel and giving the catalytic-converter/emissions-control-system a hard time with over/underfuelling. Why do half-a-job when you could get the thing properly matched?
  14. In times-past I've used my 90TD5 to haul dozens of bogged cars off country-fair/agricultural-show carparks; I always offer them the end-of-the-cable and expect them to suitably-attach it to their car. [If they wrap it round a track-rod ARB or FWD driveshaft rather than attaching it to a proper tow-point on their vehicle, welll...] Only had a couple of problems - one was a bunch of lower-class-types in a lowered-class VW Golf; dragging them out across ruts meant their stupid front spoiler snagged on the ruts and they then drove over it. Resulting in much Anglo-Saxon language from them. I ha
  15. I can see the attractiveness of this for a vehicle for regular less-than-50-mile journeys - taking shooting-parties to their pegs and to haul bales out to stock on the hill - particularly if it can be discounted for tax-purposes against various 'zero-emissions' eco-grants the government seems to be throwing-around at the moment. Recharging shouldn't be a problem for commercial operators: any serious farm'/estate will have three-phase as standard, which will happily supply 100KVA of fast-charge goodness [if yours can't, take it up with your DNO] The tax-equations will be the really-importan
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