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Tanuki last won the day on February 19

Tanuki had the most liked content!

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About Tanuki

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    Old Hand

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    Wolves, Land-Rovers, Military radio, home-made wine, forestry, amateur radio.

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  1. Looks a nice clean head-job! Before you fire it up again - take the intercooler out and give it a good rinsing with Kerosene to wash-out any oil deposits, then blow it dry with compressed-air [squirt the air into the intercooler-port that would normally feed the engine - so you're reverse-blowing it] for rather-longer-than-you-would-first-think-it-needs. You don't want the rebuilt engine to suddenly 'run-away' if it discovers a pint of sump-oil that's settled in the intercooler. [This happened to a mate's Golf TDi - and led to a second engine-rebuild!]
  2. Tanuki

    Radiator stop leak

    These things are only ever a 'get-you-home' bodge - as well as sealing any leak they'll clag-up your radiator and heater-matrix and the smaller air-bleed passages in your cylinder-head. OK, so you've got-home - but at what cost? To make things good you'll now be needing a new radiator (to replace the one with the temporarily-bunged-up leak), a new heater-matrix, and some serious pressure-flushing of your block/head to remove the goop that's left therein. Rover Group issued specific warnings against using any kind of "radiator stop-leak" goop in its 1980s-era engines. "Bars Seal Stop Leak" specifically says it's not recommended for Rover engines! I guess they had good reason for this!
  3. Tanuki

    Engine rescue!

    Give it a squirt of WD40, some new oil/fresh petrol, hook it up to a good battery and you'll have it running fine in half an hour...!
  4. Tanuki

    New shocks, now .. ?

    Have had the yellow gas-pressurised Bilsteins on my 90TD5 for around six years/80,000 miles - they weren't cheap but they made a spectacular improvement to the handling both when running unladen on twisty A/B-roads and when towing my big Bateson 3.5-ton flatbed on motorways. Best thing about them - no more bowel-loosening steering-wobble-of-death when you drop a front-wheel into a pothole coming off a roundabout at 50MPH full-throttle-in-3rd while pulling-away from a boy-racer in a Citroen Saxo!
  5. Tanuki

    Power loss, No boost, white smoke on startup

    I'd say: At first - stop running it on the wrong fuel! Yes, low-spec edible-grade veg-oil is cheap, but it's really not a good long-term diet for a modern Diesel-engine. You may save a bit in the short-term in terms of fuel-costs, but after a few years/few tens-of-thousands-of-miles you find you need a new FIP, the cost of which takes-out the supposed 'saving' you made from running on carp fuel.
  6. Tanuki

    Clutch issue?

    Check the handbrake cable - if it's binding and not allowing the shoes in the drum to retract fully it can cause a 'snatch' when first taking up drive. [I've seen a couple of cases where the handbrake cable has been melted - the inner nylon liner of the central core being swollen. This was because there was an engine-to-chassis earth problem and the starter-motor current had been going down the centre of the handbrake cable causing it to get hot and melt the liner]
  7. Tanuki

    TD5 colour

    Is it metallic? If so it would probably be Oslo Blue like my TD5.
  8. Tanuki

    Ineos updates

    If they want to start selling them next year they'll be appointing their sales/dealer/support network and financial-partners [nobody in business buys vehicles these days - they're all leased because of the cashflow/tax advantages] now. I guess they'll all be under non-disclosure-agreements - but you don't build, provision and train the underlying networks to finance and support 30,000-a-year sales [presumably globally] without it showing.
  9. Tanuki

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    The problem with a "small off-roader" like the Jimny is its towing-capacity's not that great. These days your 'serious' forester/farmer/rural sporting-estate-manager has stuff like a Deere Gator or Kawasaki Mule for hauling bales around and lugging feed to gamebird-sites, Ford Rangers for general duty, and something nice [Range-Rover/Merc/BMW] as daily-driver. My local forestry-guys got rid of their Defender 130HCPU when it came to the end of its lease and now have a Mitsubishi "Fuso" tipper-truck for log-lugging. Landcruisers are OK: but they're only available in the UK with Diesel engines. The Lexus LX: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexus_LX is essentially the same car but with a nice free-revving 32V quad-camshaft petrol V8 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexus_LX which I've experienced in the Lexus saloon and is truly a gorgeous engine!
  10. Tanuki

    Windscreen wiper removal

    If the flats in the grubscrew have rounded-off/rusted-away, you could do a lot worse than get a 'reverse thread' drill of suitable diameter and drill it out (using your drill on the reverse-setting of course). If you're lucky the heat from drilling, combined with the torque, will mean that at some point the bit 'bites' hard into the grubscrew and it screws itself out. If not, don't worry - just keep on going until you've mashed the grubscrew to swarf.
  11. Tanuki

    Engine cut out whilst driving

    Could also be worth - when it cuts out, try removing the fuel-filler cap. If you get a noticeable sucking sound, you could have a blocked tank-breather and the buildup of vacuum as fuel is drawn from the tank is temporarily defeating the sucking-power of your lift-pump until some air leaks-in to relieve the vacuum?
  12. Tanuki

    Snorkel / RAI

    For a given size/volume of filter (highly important in modern engine-bay packaging) oil-bath (or oiled-cotton K&N-type) air cleaners are less-efficient than paper ones at catching very fine dust; that's why big industrial machinery like tractors and combines invariably use paper elements. [During harvest a farming friend is replacing the air-filters on his New Holland every day - and that's _with_ an elevated intake/pre-cleaner.] Oil-bath-type cleaners are also less efficient than paper at suppressing intake noise [again important when a drive-by dB-measurement is part of vehicle type-approval] Snorkels etc - on a vehicle that spends 99.99% of its time being driven on normal UK roads they have zero value - indeed by restricting airflow they're likely to rob you of both horsepower and fuel-economy. I guess posing-points-when-parked are more important to some people than actual driving performance. I'll stick with flat-panel paper air-filters and no snorkels for my general-use vehicles.
  13. Tanuki

    Refillable spray bottles

    I use one of these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/sx-cs5-white-black-pressure-sprayer-5ltr/7490x which is fine for spraying WD40 and also my old-engine-oil-thinned-50:50-with-heating-kerosene spray-it-on-all-over chassis-rustproofing mix. Waxoyl's a bit too thick for it though, even when thinned and warmed in a bucket of boiling water.
  14. Tanuki

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    Precisely: JLR are in the business of making money; if the medium/upper-segment 4x4 market is where the sales are then that's clearly where they will target. [pragmatically, it costs pretty much the same to staff/run the production-line/supply-sourcing/dealer-support-network to sell a £120,000 car as it does to sell a £20,000 car - and the £120,000 one generates significantly more profit]. I don't see why air-suspension is seen as such an absolute no-no as it's being portrayed: for making a big heavy vehicle handle sensibly at speed and tow well, it's great! (I feel many of the naysayers have never done a fast-and-heavy 350-mile tow down a windy motorway - under such circumstances you'll be happy to take all the electronic-stability-and-comfort-assists on offer). Did the vehemently anti-air-suspension crowd complain back last-century when those evil Coil-sprung Defenders with power-steering, ABS, a heater that worked, and other 'luxury fripperies' appeared? Personally I think the proposed "Defender 3.0" looks right for its intended target-market: people who will buy/lease one (new) as a daily-driver that will also tow their caravan/horsebox/race-car-trailer, don't want to get bogged-down on campsites/showgrounds/trackside paddocks, and will swap it for a new one after five years/50,000 miles. In time I hope the prejudice against 'unnecessary modernity' has faded if only because it'll mean I'll get a better price for my then 5-year-old Defender 3.0 !!
  15. Tanuki

    uprated alternator for Defender 200tdi

    In times-past I'd have suggested using something like a 75-Amp-rated Bosch K1-75, having had loads of those fitted in Ford Sierra XR4x4 Estates which were used as part of MOULD. Once you go past 50-amps alternator output you need to switch to twin-V-belts or - preferably - a serpentine multi-vee drive. The issue being that you need friction on the pulleys to transmit drive, which depends on surface-contact-area. Sure, you can wind-up the tension on a single-belt to provide the necessary friction - but it'll mean the side-loading on the alternator/water-pump bearings are gruesome and they'll have a short and unhappy life. Trust me on this! -- Tanuki. Kennet Working Dogs - home of Archie the Rottweiler.

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