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Tanuki last won the day on June 2 2019

Tanuki had the most liked content!

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About Tanuki

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    Old Hand

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    Wolves, Land-Rovers, Military radio, home-made wine, forestry, amateur radio.

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  1. Rather than crazy low-speed-off-road stuff, I'd much rather see videos of the Defender 2.0 doing the classic "Elk-swerve" manoeuvre while towing a 3.5 Tonne-laden trailer. Or cruising at Euro-legal limits on motorways/autobahns/autostradas while dealing with the wind-wash while passing slow 70MPH truck-convoys. [Trailer, of course, should have 21st-century independent per-wheel ABS and snake-sensors providing realtime feedback to the towcar]. That's the sort of situation the likely Defender 2.0 purchasers are living: when the racehorse in the horsebox you're towing, or the car you're trailering to a trackday, is worth 3x the cost of the towcar-and-trailer combined.
  2. As others have said - blocking all the possible noise-passages between the engine-bay and the vehicle interior is really important. When I got my TD5 90 I spent a bit on a 'soundproofing kit' featuring foam panels with heat-reflective aluminium-foil one side, peel-off self-adhesive sticky-stuff the other. While this worked OK on the top of the centre-area-where-the-cubby-box-lives-between-the-seats, the stuff intended to fit on the *underside* of the underseat access-panels to the battery-box and ECU/fusebox covers had serious adhesion issues, dropping off after a few years - so I re-stuck these to the tops of the access-panels using "Sticks like ****" gloop-in-a-cartridge. The supplied under-bonnet panels dropped off after less than a year: I guess their self-adhesiveness was not designed to handle underbonnet cook-off-after-engine-shutdown temperatures of an enthusiastically-driven engine. So I threw the stick-on panels away and instead used the remains of a can of window-fitters squirty-foam to squirt into the holes in the channels between the bonnet-skin and the bonnet-frame itself - the idea being to provide a positive fix between these and damp any resonances in the bonnet-skin. The result was as good as the redundant stick-on panels. But - to re-use the stick-on panels, I took the bulkhead vent-flaps off and glued cut down bits of the stick-on panels to the inner faces of the flaps. This was inspired by noticing just how much more in-cab noise there was when the flaps were open, and thinking that even when they were shut, noise could come through. Whatever you do, a Defender will never be a quiet travel-experience. Accept this, and learn to turn the radio up!
  3. Do you want petrol or diesel? The Peugeot "XD" Diesel was popular as a retro-fit in all sorts of vehicles in the 1990s: it was also used by Ford in their Sierra/Granada cars in Europe. Mahindra used a version in their Indian-built Jeeps.... a very simple, tough and long-lived (though agricultural) engine.
  4. Yes it sounds like a classic example of a brake flexible-pipe that's more-than-10-years-old and has swollen/degenerated so it no longer allows the caliper to de-pressurise. [I've always treated rubber brake flexies as a 5-year/50,000-mile service-item; braided-PTFE Goodridge types get abother 5 years of service-life before replacement]
  5. Yes, while you can use the likes of Megasquirt/Megajolt to re-engineer older standalone engine-management, these don't really integrate well with 21st-century stuff where the engine/gearbox/transmission/ABS/traction-control all needs to work together as a package. Sure, you *could* re-engineer such a setup - but you'd be needing one hell of a lot of product-liability insurance to cover you for when a divide-by-zero error in your retro-fit system's software caused the engine to apply maximum-throttle rather than zero in a panic-brake situation on a vehicle you'd never tested your kit against. [Trust me on this: one of my clients were specialists in re-engineering 40-year-old aircraft electronics. Even getting the specs as to what--it-had-to-do was a nightmare; they turned down loads of what would have been highly-lucrative contract-offers because nothing good's ever been reported about a kludged-together Boeing 727's electronics causing it to bellyflopp onto a kindergarten]
  6. If anything, I suspect the trend towards electric vehicles will mean that more and more people will lease/PCP their vehicles (here in the UK the vast majority of private cars are already leased). Leasing does at least give you an easy way out if you find battery-life starts to become an issue as the vehicle ages, rather than you being lumbered with a 5-year-old 100,000-mile vehicle that needs £10K-worth of new battery.
  7. Classic Zinc-Chromate etch-primer should go on really thin - just a fine 'mist coat' that barely conceals the underlying metal. Don't recoat the etch - let the first coat dry [I generally leave it for 48 hours] before going for the top-coat.
  8. Unless you're intent on 1970s military-authenticity - and have a vehicle with a legacy NATO-hitch/kludged-up electrics to tow it - Sankeys are really not that much in demand. [Last year I was paid to tow an "Eriba" camping-trailer and L405 petrol Range-Rover down to the Adriatic. you just didn't know the trailer was there. 110MPH on the Autostrada.... ahem]
  9. "absolute wheel travel" is all very well as a static measurement, but you need to also understand and acknowledge the dynamic aspect - "if the wheel is slammed up to the bump-stop, how quickly does it recover in rebound? If a wheel gets dropped from load-bearing, how quickly does it reach full-droop, and then when it is re-loaded, how quickly does it yield to the load? And while all this is going on, what is the transmission's intelligence doing to distribute torque/manage wheelspin?" What "works" when crawling over rocks at 2MPH is entirely different to what happens when you drop an inside-front-wheel into a pothole while doing 60MPH and towing a 3.5-ton trailer [I'll happily sacrifice slow-off-road ability in exchange for all the transmission/suspension-smarts that stop me leaving buttock-clench-ridges in the seat-trim in the fast-towing-wheel-drop situation]. If you want crazy off-road ability - buy a UNIMOG. If you want a vehicle that will happily keep-up with motorway-speed traffic while towing a few tons, the current LR product-portfolio makes sense [or follow my lead and buy a "Commercial" Toyota LandCruiser, which I really think is the logical VAT-deductible business-sensible successor to the Defender. There are some great discounts available, for example via "Mole Valley Farmers".]
  10. 2625cc is the 1960s inlet-over-exhaust six-pot lump shared with the Rover 110 car. A truly-gorgeous engine when well-maintained and running sweetly - alas the Land-Rovers fitted with it got a spectacularly-numb camshaft, a low-compression cylinder-head and only one carburettor. The Rover-110 version had higher compression, twin carbs and a camshaft that was rather more-lively - 123 Horsepower - more than the dumbed-down 3.5 Litre Land-Rover V8 managed...!!
  11. if you *must* fit an oil-cooler, combine it with a thermostat - otherwise, as others have noted, you will probably spend 99% of the time with over-cooled oil which means a buildup of condensation and acidic combustion-products in the oil which is really-not-good-news. The best 'oil-coolers' are those that fit into the existing cooling-system [oil/water intercoolers] - they help get the oil up-to-temperature quickly after a cold-start by transferring engine-heat from coolant-to-oil - but then when the bulk-oil temperature's getting a bit hot they dump oil-heat into the coolant and let the coolant-radiator deal with it. Truth is, modern synthetic multigrade oils are *vastly* better than the SAE30 monograde-stuff Land-Rover were designing-to-use in the 50s/60s/70s. Back then, an engine rebuild/rebore-every-50,000-miles was considered normal.
  12. I work on the principle of "Do what I'm good at; pay others to do what they're good at". I'm happy to do electrics/electronics (when you've spent 20 years professionally involved in the IT/communications-industry it sort-of comes naturally) but I run shrieking like a nun harrassed by a drunk if faced with something like the insides of a gearbox: all those springs shims and needle-rollers are my vision of hell! Give me a nice clean predictable TD5 or R322 ECU any day! So - rather than spend a weekend lying on my back under a car wrestling with some horrid oily assembly, I'll happily *work* that weekend managing someone-else's IT-upgrade, and then spend *half* the profits with Mr. Ashcroft or someone who knows a lot better how to fix a R380 than I ever will. At least his gear comes with a warranty, which I wouldn't have if I reworked a gearbox and put the wrong number of shoms/rollers in somewhere.
  13. I've driven a Tesla Model-S; it was really rather impressive. Torque - and acceleration - on-tap instantly, all in impressive silence! Its owner describes the throttle as the Orgasm-pedal. But as others have noted, if you're running the heater or the aircon seriously it really does reduce the potential mileage-per-charge. Fortunately my friendly Tesla-owner has 3-phase AC power at home and can set things to turn the aircon or heater on for an hour before he needs his car in the morning, so it's pre-heated/cooled to the right temperature [running off mains not battery] for his morning commute, which saves a bit of charge. For a small business, offering "electrification kits" commercially would be a nightmare - apart from the need to do a SVA/IVA-style test and some sort of HMRC-assessment for each vehicle converted, you'd also need to have some serious product-liability insurance in-place - - all the more so if you were offering 'kits' to be fitted by backstreet mechanics rather than by any sort of accredited dealer-network. I can just imagine someone trying to get insurance for their home-fitted electric-kit - sane insurers would expect a certificate-of-competence from the installer, and an inspection of the workmanship of the particular fitment. Let's say £1000? And, let's face it - would it really be worth spending £10K plys VAT to electrify a 20-year-old car that's only worth £5K, and will ** still ** only be worth £5K after the electrification? I'm reminded of the late-80s/early-90s emissions-kits that were offered to 'de-tox' old London Taxis that had been supplied with the Land-Rover/Freight-Rover 2.5-Diesel engine fitted as standard. They were really not that successful - smart cabbies dumped their old taxis and bought ones with the 2.7-Litre Nissan lump.
  14. In theory, like everything, it could be arranged - but at a cost. Not only the cost of engineering it, but - more importantly - the cost of having it tested-and-certified by a Government-approved emissions-test lab-facility and getting them to issue the appropriate city/state-recognised paperwork. This second part is - for a single vehicle - likely to cost more than the value of the vehicle. Better to sell your existing Defender and buy one of the Puma-engined ones with a DPF - and supporting-paperwork/certification - as standard. [This is why I'm selliing-on my 90TD5 and replacing it with a Euro-6-compliant Toyota Landcruiser]
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