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Tanuki last won the day on December 11 2015

Tanuki had the most liked content!

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About Tanuki

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    Old Hand

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    Wolves, Land-Rovers, Military radio, home-made wine, forestry, amateur radio.

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  1. Tanuki

    The new Defender is now pointless

    The sane way to go is to have some sort of easily-swappable, standardised battery-packs. Which you lease from your power-company rather than buying them as part of the vehicle. Then - you drive up to a filling-station, the robotic pit-mechanic drops the empty battery-pack from your car and lifts a new fully-charged one into place. You drive away a minute later with another 250 miles range, and the various electronics sort-out how much to bill you. Not personally 'owning' a specific battery-built-into-the-truck is the key here. For me the big issue with electric cars is that there's no quick-and-easy electric equivalent to the convenient 5-gallon Jerry-can-of-Diesel when your electric vehicle runs out of charge at 23:00 on a Sunday a few miles outside of Rhayader and your business means you really need to be in Exeter by 08:00 to sign your next contract...
  2. Tanuki

    Sailsbury Plain

    And watch out for anything covered by TROs. Between October and March it's sensible to assume that TROs *are* in force. Us on the local Farmwatch VHF-radio net are rather good at tracking TRO-violators, and can generally arrange for them to meet a bale-loader at the end of a TRO-embargoed lane.
  3. Tanuki

    Securing lights !

    In the 60s and 70s theft of auxiliary lights was a significant issue [Cibie Oscars didn't come cheap] - the usual way to secure them (they had a single big nut to hold them to their up/down brackets) was to drill one flat of the nut, tap the hole, and then fit an Allen-headed grubscrew which engaged with a 'flat' you filed on the threaded-part of the lamp mounting. One person I knew also added another wire to the loom, which looped into-and-out-of each of his spot/foglamps. This was wired through a small relay to a permanently-live point - the relay only took about 25 Milliamps. Cut the wire, the relay drops-out, and its contact energizes the horn. It worked, too!
  4. Tanuki

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    This makes interesting reading: China seems to be where it's all going wrong for JLR. https://europe.autonews.com/automakers/why-jaguar-land-rover-losing-money-and-how-it-plans-return-profit
  5. It's not unknown for the handbrake cable to serve as an 'alternative earth' between the engine/gearbox and the body if the proper engine-to-chassis earth cable corrodes. Starter-motor current flowing through the handbrake cable can cause enough heating to melt the inner nylon liner, which then swells and the handbrake becomes difficult/impossible-to-release.
  6. Tanuki

    Recovery mods

    I've got one of the Dixon-Bate combined ball-and-pin hitches on the rear of my Defender, attached to the factory-fit towbar mounts. That's the only 'recovery' facility I think I need. I work on the principle that if I ever get stuck while going-forward the sane and obvious way to recover me is to pull me backwards, out of the way I got into the mess, not by pulling me forwards and so further-into the problem. I do have a genuine LR tubular steering-guard in the shed, bought around 2002 but so far never fitted. None of the 90s/110s/Defenders I worked with professionally over the years had any sort of recovery-fitments on the front. Same applied to the RB44 "mobile laboratory" [a truly-horrible thing which we were glad to see the back of]. Get stuck, and you came out the way you went-in. A Tirfor was the standard provision, the sweat you worked-up in extracting your couple of tons of mired truck was part of the process of learning not-to-do-stupid-things-next-time.
  7. What meter are you using to measure the voltage? Modern Digital Multimeters are spectacularly-sensitive and will show a voltage even when the circuit being tested is fed only by leakage across damp-paths. For car stuff I generally prefer an old-style analog meter - something like an "AVO 8" - that is a lot less sensitive to false readings caused by leakage. I vaguely remember that on old clockwork-Diesel Defenders there was a diode fitted somewhere in the loom which was designed to stop the alternator continuing to back-feed a voltage to the stop-solenoid via the ignition-warning-light bulb when you turned the ignition-switch off [and so keeping the engine running even though you'd told it to stop]. Could your problem be due to this diode or the dashboard-warning-light circuit having problems??
  8. Tanuki

    Galvanising Old Chassis

    A "proper" galvanizer will hot-pickle the chassis before fluxing it and then galvanising it. Properly removing any adherent paint or greasy-deposits will endear you to the galvanizers. If there are any threaded captive-nuts it's worth screwing a Copaslip-coated bolt into them before galvanizing, similarly for any through-chassis tubes. It's a lot easier to do this than having to drill-out/re-tap them after galvanizing so you can re-fit your bolts. Also, any closed sections, drill airholes/drain-holes so the galvanizing can flow freely in and out. Galvanizers charge by weight - they weigh the chassis before and after - you don't want to have a random 50-Kilograms-worth of molten Zinc wastefully trapped in a closed section.
  9. This is great!! It's always useful for people to come back with a summary of the problem, what they tried, and what finally resolved it. Share the knowledge, share the learning, share the experience - that's the truly wonderful thing about these forums. "The answer is out there!"
  10. Tanuki

    So what did you get

    I got a couple of 10-Metre-long 32A-rated Commando-plug extension-leads from my nephew. They're likely to be useful!
  11. The hose is just a hose - the only thing 'special' about it is that it needs to be a vacuum-rated hose. I've seen a case where someone used a piece of ordinary rubber heater-hose for a vacuum-line in place of proper vacuum-hose, and once the underbonnet heat softened the rubber a bit, it got sucked flat! This is the typoe I use: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/1062/vacuum-servo-hose
  12. Tanuki

    Defender 2.4 TDci Power loss at high speed

    Pumas use a Variable Geometry Turbo [VGT] . Check that the mechanism that operates the VGT is working properly and that the VGT-actuating linkage is free to move and can actually vary the turbo-geometry and isn't stuck/binding. There's an electronic control-module bolted to the side of the VGT assembly - check that the plug for this is properly seated.
  13. Tanuki

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    TBH I can totally understand JLR chasing the middle/upper-class market segment. That, after all, is where the money is! A couple of decades back a relative was doing a MBA and chose to focus on the automotive industry: her findings were that it cost not-much-more to build a top-of-the-range car over a distinctly-proletarian model. Parts-cost is surprisingly-low, the big costs are in gathering the parts together and actually installing/staffing/running the production-lines, then shipping the finished cars out to the point-of-sale. "A gearbox is a gearbox: it incurs essentially the same production-costs and install-costs whatever model of car it's fitted to". Better, therefore, to fit that gearbox to a car that sells for $100K over one that sells for $50K. One of her contacts happily said that if markets got tough they'd happily halve their vehicle sales by pruning-out the low-end low-profit models. To me this makes total sense - producing 50,000 vehicles and making on average $10,000 on each generates as much profit as 100,000 vehicles with a $5,000 profit on each - and your site-leasing/operating/staffing costs are halved. Remember - JLR are not in the business of making cars, they're in the business of making money. OK, the've screwed-up by investing crazily in Diesel (presumably to satisfy the European obsessed-about-CO2-emissions market) but outside the Euro-bubble petrol is still supreme - and this truth's coming home to bite them now. I'll be interested in seeing what the New Year brings in terms of a New Defender. I've got the cash sitting in a slush-fund, and yesterday took a Ford Ranger for a test-drive.
  14. I've got a couple of the standard DIN type 12V power-outlets (with waterproofing covers) mounted on the outside of my 90; I use them to power lights/radios etc when camping. https://www.durite.co.uk/ItemDetails/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemNumber=060119&SingleResultCriteria=&catid=55585 They're wired direct to the battery through 16A fuses - so I can also use them as connectors for trickle-charging if needs arise.
  15. Tanuki

    DEFENDER 200tdi turbo failure

    Whatever you do, check the oil-drain-pipe from the turbo to the sump. I've seen a couple of well-used TDIs where this pipe has been full of clag and carbonised/tarry oil-sludge to the point where it would have been impeding the free drainage of oil from the turbo back to the sump. If the oil can't drain freely, it seeks the next-easiest path - through the turbo seals to freedom! A new turbo-to-sump pipe is a cheap investment to make sure you don't blow another set of seals.

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