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Tanuki

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Tanuki last won the day on February 19

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About Tanuki

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    Old Hand

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    tanuki@canismajor.demon.co.uk

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  • Location
    Wiltshire

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  • Interests
    Wolves, Land-Rovers, Military radio, home-made wine, forestry, amateur radio.

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  1. Tanuki

    V8 Carb tuning/snorkle/intakes

    A friend has a late-1970s 10.5:1 P6 (specced to take 101-0ctane 5*) with distributor/SUs and timed as standard with the original 101-octane-curve distributor (OK, it's got bronze valve-guides and stainless valves) he runs it on Shell V-power and on his European drives he's happy to run at full-throttle/5400RPM down to the Adriatic and back to see his girlfriend every other weekend. The carbed LR/RR V8s were crippled in order to take poverty-grade fuel. We don't have to put up with this in the UK.
  2. Tanuki

    V8 Carb tuning/snorkle/intakes

    I agree: compression-test first - you need to be seeing at least 170PSI on all cylinders. Anything less means you've got piston-ring or valve-leakage issues [or you're running a sad low-compression V8 which will never perform]. Then a valve-lift check. Old Rover V8s trash their camshaft-lobes because from the 1990s general engine-oils removed the 'high-pressure' oil-additives - traditionally based on Zinc Dithiophosphate - or "ZDDP" - because leakage/burning of this into the combustion-chambers really messed-up catalytic converters. An old RV8 run on post-1995 oils is guranteed to show pitting/erosion of the camshaft lobes; I've seen a few where the lobes were so badly eroded that they only gave 0.2 inch of valve-lift! Also - if it's an irregulary-driven vehicle - check the distributor. The grease on the spindle can harden to the point where it traps the centrifugal-advance weights in the fully-retarded position. The result being an engine that is horribly-numb above about 3200RPM. A healthy 3.5 RV8 should really start to sing at 3500 and happily go on to 5500 before the fun starts to tail-off. "If in doubt, change-down" - you can never over-rev a healthy RV8. Shell V-power fuel works just fine in a TVR Chimaera with 10.5:1 compression pistons....
  3. Tanuki

    "Help, my diff is making a funny noise"

    I guess that's from Boadicea's Chariot? [I'm sure you've also heard of the new "VolksChariot" the Huns are proposing: they've decided to put the horses at the rear]
  4. Tanuki

    Stainless Steel vs Catalytic Corrosion

    The tendency to corrode when dissimilar metals are in contact depends on the electrode-potentials of the metals in question. The further-apart they are in the electrochemical-series the greater the 'battery' they generate when wetted and the worse the corrosion will be. See here: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electrode-potential-d_482.html When you're dealing with alloys [like stainless, or brass], take the most-extreme electrode-potential as the default. Brass and Aluminium, for example - the Copper in the brass has a potential of +0.34 and Aluminium has a potential of -1.67 meaning they will react like crazy when wet! Zinc and Aluminium are 'relatively' close-together [-0.76 and -1.67] so they shouldn't corrode too badly. Aluminium at -1.67 and Iron at -0.44 are further apart, hence the creeping corrosion that sets in between the un-galvanized body-cappings and the aluminium body-panels on Defenders.
  5. Tanuki

    2.5 TD5 or 2.4 Tdi?

    My 2001 90TD5 Defender has a dual-mass flywheel and its done 200,000-odd miles without failure [still on the original clutch too, despite lots of fast Continental trailer-towing-duty] It's a "commercial" as far as UK VED is concerned. "TC39" light-goods-vehicle. "Registered on or after 1 March 2001 and not over 3,500kg revenue weight" so £250/year.
  6. Tanuki

    2.5 TD5 or 2.4 Tdi?

    I've got a 90TD5, but have driven a friend's 2.4 Puma-engined 110 quite a bit. I find the 6-speed Puma-engined option to be strangely-geared: First is stupidly-low so I generally use a few more revs and pull-off in 2nd. Then 6th is crazily-high and only really usable on free-flowing motorways - even then I find myself instinctively changing-down a couple of gears on gentle inclines or if I see bunching traffic ahead, so I know I'll have powerrevs on-tap for immediate response to keep up with the traffic. Pumas always feel rough to me: they're missing a cylinder and the dual-mass-flywheel the TD5 has to make things smooth. They also don't rev as freely as a TD5 (I'm happy to take my TD5 up to 65MPH in 3rd when going down motorway sliproads or overtaking on A-roads). The TD5 is a sportscar in comparison to the Transit lumps, but I was always taught to keep an engine turning fast rather than 'labouring' it in high gears. Only issues I've had with the TD5 are oil in the wiring-loom (an easy fix) and the need to replace the injector copper-washers every 60,000 miles {mine's on its third set and I'm expecting it to need another set soon.} I can only say - try driving both and see what feels the most suitable to your driving-style.
  7. Tanuki

    Coolant marks

    Antifreeze is very "searching" - and 30-odd-year-old aluminium housings often have a nasty degree of pitting on the places where hoses have to seal. If you're lucky you will be able to remove the various housings and clean them up - lap the gasket-faces of things like thermostat-housings on a piece of plate-glass using valve-grinding-paste until the faces are uniformly grey without any pits. On the stubs where hoses have to seal, wire-brush first, then use wet&dry to again remove all the surface-imperfections. If you can't get a uniformly-grey, smooth-to-the-touch surface all the way round the hose-stubs, apply the Navy-standard flotation-test[1] and if the part fails, buy a new one. Some people suggest using bathroom silicone-sealant to 'fill' the pitted surfaces on aluminium coolant-parts. It may work short-term but the problem is that most silicone-sealants are 'acid-cure' - smell it! The acids released will further corrode the aluminium, guaranteeing that the problem will recur. [1] Throw the part into standing water at least five fathoms deep. If it floats, the part can safely be re-used.
  8. Tanuki

    The new Defender is now pointless

    The sane way to go is to have some sort of easily-swappable, standardised battery-packs. Which you lease from your power-company rather than buying them as part of the vehicle. Then - you drive up to a filling-station, the robotic pit-mechanic drops the empty battery-pack from your car and lifts a new fully-charged one into place. You drive away a minute later with another 250 miles range, and the various electronics sort-out how much to bill you. Not personally 'owning' a specific battery-built-into-the-truck is the key here. For me the big issue with electric cars is that there's no quick-and-easy electric equivalent to the convenient 5-gallon Jerry-can-of-Diesel when your electric vehicle runs out of charge at 23:00 on a Sunday a few miles outside of Rhayader and your business means you really need to be in Exeter by 08:00 to sign your next contract...
  9. Tanuki

    Sailsbury Plain

    And watch out for anything covered by TROs. Between October and March it's sensible to assume that TROs *are* in force. Us on the local Farmwatch VHF-radio net are rather good at tracking TRO-violators, and can generally arrange for them to meet a bale-loader at the end of a TRO-embargoed lane.
  10. Tanuki

    Securing lights !

    In the 60s and 70s theft of auxiliary lights was a significant issue [Cibie Oscars didn't come cheap] - the usual way to secure them (they had a single big nut to hold them to their up/down brackets) was to drill one flat of the nut, tap the hole, and then fit an Allen-headed grubscrew which engaged with a 'flat' you filed on the threaded-part of the lamp mounting. One person I knew also added another wire to the loom, which looped into-and-out-of each of his spot/foglamps. This was wired through a small relay to a permanently-live point - the relay only took about 25 Milliamps. Cut the wire, the relay drops-out, and its contact energizes the horn. It worked, too!
  11. Tanuki

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    This makes interesting reading: China seems to be where it's all going wrong for JLR. https://europe.autonews.com/automakers/why-jaguar-land-rover-losing-money-and-how-it-plans-return-profit
  12. It's not unknown for the handbrake cable to serve as an 'alternative earth' between the engine/gearbox and the body if the proper engine-to-chassis earth cable corrodes. Starter-motor current flowing through the handbrake cable can cause enough heating to melt the inner nylon liner, which then swells and the handbrake becomes difficult/impossible-to-release.
  13. Tanuki

    Recovery mods

    I've got one of the Dixon-Bate combined ball-and-pin hitches on the rear of my Defender, attached to the factory-fit towbar mounts. That's the only 'recovery' facility I think I need. I work on the principle that if I ever get stuck while going-forward the sane and obvious way to recover me is to pull me backwards, out of the way I got into the mess, not by pulling me forwards and so further-into the problem. I do have a genuine LR tubular steering-guard in the shed, bought around 2002 but so far never fitted. None of the 90s/110s/Defenders I worked with professionally over the years had any sort of recovery-fitments on the front. Same applied to the RB44 "mobile laboratory" [a truly-horrible thing which we were glad to see the back of]. Get stuck, and you came out the way you went-in. A Tirfor was the standard provision, the sweat you worked-up in extracting your couple of tons of mired truck was part of the process of learning not-to-do-stupid-things-next-time.
  14. What meter are you using to measure the voltage? Modern Digital Multimeters are spectacularly-sensitive and will show a voltage even when the circuit being tested is fed only by leakage across damp-paths. For car stuff I generally prefer an old-style analog meter - something like an "AVO 8" - that is a lot less sensitive to false readings caused by leakage. I vaguely remember that on old clockwork-Diesel Defenders there was a diode fitted somewhere in the loom which was designed to stop the alternator continuing to back-feed a voltage to the stop-solenoid via the ignition-warning-light bulb when you turned the ignition-switch off [and so keeping the engine running even though you'd told it to stop]. Could your problem be due to this diode or the dashboard-warning-light circuit having problems??
  15. Tanuki

    Galvanising Old Chassis

    A "proper" galvanizer will hot-pickle the chassis before fluxing it and then galvanising it. Properly removing any adherent paint or greasy-deposits will endear you to the galvanizers. If there are any threaded captive-nuts it's worth screwing a Copaslip-coated bolt into them before galvanizing, similarly for any through-chassis tubes. It's a lot easier to do this than having to drill-out/re-tap them after galvanizing so you can re-fit your bolts. Also, any closed sections, drill airholes/drain-holes so the galvanizing can flow freely in and out. Galvanizers charge by weight - they weigh the chassis before and after - you don't want to have a random 50-Kilograms-worth of molten Zinc wastefully trapped in a closed section.
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