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Tanuki

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Tanuki last won the day on June 2

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About Tanuki

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    Old Hand

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    tanuki@canismajor.demon.co.uk

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  • Location
    Wiltshire

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  • Interests
    Wolves, Land-Rovers, Military radio, home-made wine, forestry, amateur radio.

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  1. They should separate.... easily. If you've had to spend time doing 'percussive disassembly' it would to me suggest that your shaft has been neglected (as Kenneth Williams would say - Ooooh! Matron!!) . If there's rusty-stuff coming out I'd be inclined to dump it and fit a new one. I once saw a car where the propshaft had let-go at speed and flailed its way into the passenger-compartment. One rear-seat occupant dead, the other one surviving but with catastrophically-life-changing lower-limb injuries.
  2. You haven't inadvertently swapped the alternator warning-light and the oil-pressure-light wires over have you?
  3. As I see it, one of the 'issues' about the old Defender shape which resulted in its discontinuation was the whole matter of pedestrian-safety: a Defender-style flat-front and protruding bumper is really rather unfriendly (gets you a low star-rating in the NCAP tests, potentially meaning increased insurance-costs too). Equally, the Defender-shape is about as aerodynamic as a medium-sized warehouse, which pushes-up your fuel consumption and grams-of-CO2-per-kilometre emissions in comparison to aerodynamically-smoother shapes, particularly at higher speeds. While some may hanker after retaining the "classic" Defender-shape, I'm happy to adopt the improved knowledge of automotive shapes that have been learned over the last half-century.
  4. Sadly no, otherwise my towcar-of-choice would be a Lexus LS500h ! Instead, I've got a Toyota Landcruiser on order. Sadly, Toyota don't offer the really-rather-fun hybrid petrol-V6-with-electric-assist Lexus powertrain on the Landcruiser. Which is sad - I'd rather have liked a truck that could do 0-60 in 5.1 seconds [without the trailer].
  5. Does look good: I look forward to a few future videos - and posted lap-times - of it on trials towing a 3.5-ton triple-axle flatbed round Nürburgring. [For my daily-driver - I don't want crazy offroad axle-articulation - to me the important thing is can I tow a laden trailer at legal-speed-plus-20% for 500 miles in comfort and without losing my hearing]
  6. The GL5 I use [Lodexol FS 75W-90] is fully-synthetic and rated as safe for transmissions with 'yellow metal' components. I think the 'thing' about GL5 not being OK for such gearboxes was from 25 years back when GL5 non-synthetic oils were first introduced and some of them included lots of sulphur/phosphorus compounds [Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates?] The stuff I use doesn't stink like the old high-sulphur "EP" hypoid oils.
  7. TD5 coolant-temperature-sensor feeds to the ECU, not the gauge. The coolant-temperature-sensor is used (along with the fuel-temperature sensor on the pressure-regulator, and the intake-air-temperature sensor in the air-filter-casing) to let the TD5 ECU make decisions on fuelling, EGR-volume, boost-limit, glowplug-energisation etc. As a bit of a sideline the ECU sends a composite-of-various-sensors signal to the dashboard temperature-gauge. Your 'clockwork' engine doesn't need these signals - so single-wire your existing sensor back to an old-style 200/300TDI gauge and it should work.
  8. The official JLR Book-of-Words for my 90TD5 says the transfer-box takes 2.3 Litres. Which is about what I typically budget for when getting 75W80 GL5 [which also goes into the front/rear diffs] for an all-round oilchange.
  9. Fascinating... but if I was wanting to do that I wouldn't use any kind of metal - I'd go for stressed cellular--honeycomb and weave-reinforced (Kevlar) plastic. Lighter, much stronger, corrosion-resistant, safer in a crash (because of controlled energy absorption), much easier to repair, and probably cheaper too. Think F1 cars and modern aircraft - or even 1960s Lotus road-cars! [They kinda give the game away when that boast about their panels being thicker: that's old-style last-century thinking. These days the game is all about efficient use of materials - meaning **thinner** and **lighter** for the same, or greater, strength].
  10. Eberspächer is a brand/manufacturer, covering a whole range of different fuel-burning heaters [with powers from a pedestrian gnats-whiskers-more-than-a-Kilowatt up to 50+Killerwatt serious burn-the-hair-off-your-legs roasters] Which Eberspächer model do you have?
  11. Personally, I would *want* a 21st-century pickup/van to have a unibody [featuring lots of lightweight carbon-fibre/foamed-metal/stressed-composite goodies] over an old-style heavy-metal chassis. Why? For a given weight it's a vastly better way to handle everyday stress/strain loads - and totally outclasses old rigid-chassis stuff when it comes to collapsing and sacrificing itself in a crash so you don't die. I feel that a lot of the "Old LR" stalwarts here are stuck in the mindset of pre-WWII railway-carriage designers, where 'heavy' was good. Me? I'm happy to embrace what's been developed in the last decade and deployed in F1 cars, military and civil-aviation. "Light" doesn't mean flimsy - properly implemented it gives spectacular strength along with predictable, controlled and energy-absorbing collapse when the occasion arises. It also doesn't rot as quickly as a Defender chassis!
  12. A healthy TD5 should fire-up from cold on the second or third crankshaft-rotation. When mine's not done so it's been down to combustion-gases in the fuel-rail because of failure of the copper-washer injector-seals [I've learned to treat these as 70,000-mile service-items]. As a test - before cranking, do a couple of 'fuel system purge' cycles [details for your particular rendition of the TD5 will be in the handbook - it varies depending on the ECU you've got] - this will expel any 'trapped wind' in the in-head fuel galleries and ensure you have clean bubble-free fuel being fed to the injectors, which is essential for a clean and untroubled engine-launch.
  13. I'd wrap it in some of the brown "Vapour phase corrosion inhibitor" paper then seal it inside a suitably-sized Tupperware-box or one of the big containers you get ice-cream in. At least an injection-pump's small. I've got a 5-speed Jack Knight Hillman Imp transaxle in preservation - which is just a bit less-convenient to store!
  14. Sticky-wastegate was an issue on my 90TD5 - it would be really "numb" and sluggish for the first few hundred yards/30 seconds after a cold-start [wastegate stuck open?] then recover - presumably the gate freed-off once there was some heat into the turbo/housing - but after a few miles of 'enthusiastic' driving it would then go numb again; turning the ignition off for a few seconds then turning it back on would clear the problem for a while. I eventually realised what was going on and did some wastegate-lever-wiggling to properly free it off. As to the usefulness of a boost-gauge - I don't really see how it will help. After all, there's nothing you can really do to alter what it's showing while you're driving (apart from adapting your driving-style: I find most people have been crazily conditioned to 'change up early' which really doesn't work well with the naturally free-revving spirit of a TD5 - there's a rev-limiter there to tell you when you really need to reach for the next gear. You can't over-rev a modern Diesel).
  15. You may be able to 'kludge' it using old bolts or something - but if it then fails and flips a trailer into the other-side of a motorway or something, your insurers would probably walk away and leave you with a problem that could be both legally-interesting and financially-crippling. Proper parts are - in this context - a cheap investment.
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