Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Tanuki last won the day on June 2

Tanuki had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

103 Excellent

1 Follower

About Tanuki

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Contact Methods

  • MSN

Profile Information

  • Location

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Wolves, Land-Rovers, Military radio, home-made wine, forestry, amateur radio.

Recent Profile Visitors

983 profile views
  1. They should separate.... easily. If you've had to spend time doing 'percussive disassembly' it would to me suggest that your shaft has been neglected (as Kenneth Williams would say - Ooooh! Matron!!) . If there's rusty-stuff coming out I'd be inclined to dump it and fit a new one. I once saw a car where the propshaft had let-go at speed and flailed its way into the passenger-compartment. One rear-seat occupant dead, the other one surviving but with catastrophically-life-changing lower-limb injuries.
  2. You haven't inadvertently swapped the alternator warning-light and the oil-pressure-light wires over have you?
  3. As I see it, one of the 'issues' about the old Defender shape which resulted in its discontinuation was the whole matter of pedestrian-safety: a Defender-style flat-front and protruding bumper is really rather unfriendly (gets you a low star-rating in the NCAP tests, potentially meaning increased insurance-costs too). Equally, the Defender-shape is about as aerodynamic as a medium-sized warehouse, which pushes-up your fuel consumption and grams-of-CO2-per-kilometre emissions in comparison to aerodynamically-smoother shapes, particularly at higher speeds. While some may hanker after retaining the "classic" Defender-shape, I'm happy to adopt the improved knowledge of automotive shapes that have been learned over the last half-century.
  4. Sadly no, otherwise my towcar-of-choice would be a Lexus LS500h ! Instead, I've got a Toyota Landcruiser on order. Sadly, Toyota don't offer the really-rather-fun hybrid petrol-V6-with-electric-assist Lexus powertrain on the Landcruiser. Which is sad - I'd rather have liked a truck that could do 0-60 in 5.1 seconds [without the trailer].
  5. Does look good: I look forward to a few future videos - and posted lap-times - of it on trials towing a 3.5-ton triple-axle flatbed round Nürburgring. [For my daily-driver - I don't want crazy offroad axle-articulation - to me the important thing is can I tow a laden trailer at legal-speed-plus-20% for 500 miles in comfort and without losing my hearing]
  6. The GL5 I use [Lodexol FS 75W-90] is fully-synthetic and rated as safe for transmissions with 'yellow metal' components. I think the 'thing' about GL5 not being OK for such gearboxes was from 25 years back when GL5 non-synthetic oils were first introduced and some of them included lots of sulphur/phosphorus compounds [Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates?] The stuff I use doesn't stink like the old high-sulphur "EP" hypoid oils.
  7. TD5 coolant-temperature-sensor feeds to the ECU, not the gauge. The coolant-temperature-sensor is used (along with the fuel-temperature sensor on the pressure-regulator, and the intake-air-temperature sensor in the air-filter-casing) to let the TD5 ECU make decisions on fuelling, EGR-volume, boost-limit, glowplug-energisation etc. As a bit of a sideline the ECU sends a composite-of-various-sensors signal to the dashboard temperature-gauge. Your 'clockwork' engine doesn't need these signals - so single-wire your existing sensor back to an old-style 200/300TDI gauge and it should work.
  8. The official JLR Book-of-Words for my 90TD5 says the transfer-box takes 2.3 Litres. Which is about what I typically budget for when getting 75W80 GL5 [which also goes into the front/rear diffs] for an all-round oilchange.
  9. Fascinating... but if I was wanting to do that I wouldn't use any kind of metal - I'd go for stressed cellular--honeycomb and weave-reinforced (Kevlar) plastic. Lighter, much stronger, corrosion-resistant, safer in a crash (because of controlled energy absorption), much easier to repair, and probably cheaper too. Think F1 cars and modern aircraft - or even 1960s Lotus road-cars! [They kinda give the game away when that boast about their panels being thicker: that's old-style last-century thinking. These days the game is all about efficient use of materials - meaning **thinner** and **lighter** for the same, or greater, strength].
  10. Eberspächer is a brand/manufacturer, covering a whole range of different fuel-burning heaters [with powers from a pedestrian gnats-whiskers-more-than-a-Kilowatt up to 50+Killerwatt serious burn-the-hair-off-your-legs roasters] Which Eberspächer model do you have?
  11. Personally, I would *want* a 21st-century pickup/van to have a unibody [featuring lots of lightweight carbon-fibre/foamed-metal/stressed-composite goodies] over an old-style heavy-metal chassis. Why? For a given weight it's a vastly better way to handle everyday stress/strain loads - and totally outclasses old rigid-chassis stuff when it comes to collapsing and sacrificing itself in a crash so you don't die. I feel that a lot of the "Old LR" stalwarts here are stuck in the mindset of pre-WWII railway-carriage designers, where 'heavy' was good. Me? I'm happy to embrace what's been developed in the last decade and deployed in F1 cars, military and civil-aviation. "Light" doesn't mean flimsy - properly implemented it gives spectacular strength along with predictable, controlled and energy-absorbing collapse when the occasion arises. It also doesn't rot as quickly as a Defender chassis!
  12. A healthy TD5 should fire-up from cold on the second or third crankshaft-rotation. When mine's not done so it's been down to combustion-gases in the fuel-rail because of failure of the copper-washer injector-seals [I've learned to treat these as 70,000-mile service-items]. As a test - before cranking, do a couple of 'fuel system purge' cycles [details for your particular rendition of the TD5 will be in the handbook - it varies depending on the ECU you've got] - this will expel any 'trapped wind' in the in-head fuel galleries and ensure you have clean bubble-free fuel being fed to the injectors, which is essential for a clean and untroubled engine-launch.
  13. I'd wrap it in some of the brown "Vapour phase corrosion inhibitor" paper then seal it inside a suitably-sized Tupperware-box or one of the big containers you get ice-cream in. At least an injection-pump's small. I've got a 5-speed Jack Knight Hillman Imp transaxle in preservation - which is just a bit less-convenient to store!
  14. Sticky-wastegate was an issue on my 90TD5 - it would be really "numb" and sluggish for the first few hundred yards/30 seconds after a cold-start [wastegate stuck open?] then recover - presumably the gate freed-off once there was some heat into the turbo/housing - but after a few miles of 'enthusiastic' driving it would then go numb again; turning the ignition off for a few seconds then turning it back on would clear the problem for a while. I eventually realised what was going on and did some wastegate-lever-wiggling to properly free it off. As to the usefulness of a boost-gauge - I don't really see how it will help. After all, there's nothing you can really do to alter what it's showing while you're driving (apart from adapting your driving-style: I find most people have been crazily conditioned to 'change up early' which really doesn't work well with the naturally free-revving spirit of a TD5 - there's a rev-limiter there to tell you when you really need to reach for the next gear. You can't over-rev a modern Diesel).
  15. You may be able to 'kludge' it using old bolts or something - but if it then fails and flips a trailer into the other-side of a motorway or something, your insurers would probably walk away and leave you with a problem that could be both legally-interesting and financially-crippling. Proper parts are - in this context - a cheap investment.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy